MileHi

Joe's right on here. I've used kerosene to clean my chain once too, and the o-rings started to go. I started to notice a red dust-like substance all over the rear of my bike when my o-rings were going. Check your rear rim for a light coating of this red dust, looks like it might have come from grinding bricks, a sure sign your o-rings are in bad shape. I'm not sure all o-rings are the same so YMMV. But one thing I was told to check before using any cleaning agents on the chain was to test it first. Either soak a couple of links that you took off the chain when you originally installed it, or just go pick up some o-rings and soak them in your test solution. Again, not sure if all o-rings are made equal, but my guess is they probably are. Jay Interesting... Both DID and EK recommend kerosene as the prefered cleaning solvent. I think that is "secret" to cleaning with kerosene is NOT to scrub the hell out of it. I've usually just taken a rag soaked in it and run the chain through the rag... Followed witha dry rag wipe down and liberally lube the chain with motor oil and another wipe down with a clean rag. No rust or deteriorating O-rings. Moderation is the key...

Let me throw out another option...I have the EK ZZZ chain and love it! 5000+ miles and zero adjustments. Of course as mentioned... A chain oiler makes a big difference. I think the EK ZZZ would be the PERFECT choice for those '02 owners in need of a chain that can handle all that additional power!!! And it comes in gold...

So, you say that N1K gave you instructions on how to do an oil change??? :icon_doh: Don't listen to himwhenhe trys to tell you how to fix it...

I've played around with my settings for quite a while... I finally settled on S3 Table 10. The chain has stayed oiled, clean and minimal splatter on the rear wheel. Give it a shot... You can always 'richen' it.

+1... Not a problem at all...

Actually, I tried that, but the crap that's in those little bags are things that I normally keep on the bike. I guess that I had a little less fear if drilling since both bags have been repaired (lower portion of the inner shell) a few years ago when the Bandit's exhaust melted them on a Denver to L.A. and back trip. And with the experience that I got repairing those holes gives me confidence that I can easly repair/fill these small holes in the future. I am looking at some smaller duffle type bags for just what you mentioned for clothes and toiletries when I travel.

I don't know if others have the same problems that I do with tossing a lot of small stuff into one's saddlebags and find all the crap bouncing around and falling out when you open 'em to get something out... So, I picked up eight small picture/frame hanging brackets a handful of 10" mini-bungees, some pop rivets and a couple of small stowage sacks... I positioned the brackets where I wanted them (in my case towards the front of each bag) , drilled the holes and pop-riveted them in place. I slapped a little RTV silicon on the outside of the bags over the rivets just to make sure that they would sat waterproof... A couple of bucks and having the nerve to drill holes in the Givis has produced a neat 'n cheap farkle... The left bag: The right bag: And the straps and brackets:

Got tried of screwin' around with those two clips... A cable tie works fine, is cheap and I always have a handful available.

Yuppers, funny how that works... My speedo is off by about 8% and the odo is spot on according to the GPS.

Oh yeah... a little more info may help! It's a PCII, K&N and Yoshi slipons... I'll go and upload the map too...

EBC HH pads front 'n rear...

The gaskets are cupped... SELL IT!

The word "Super"... Not diff... All the same bike. '97 - '97 have carbs and the '99 on are Fuel Injected.

Earlier this week I took the Bird in for a Dyno tune. After having put a few miles on it since tune, I'm quite pleased with the results. Baseline run of 131.52 HP last run of 132.44 HP. Not a major gain, but that's not what I was after. The tune DID smooth out the power delivery... It feels much more linear from off idle and throught the mid range. I'm happy with the "tuneup" she got!!! Curious to see if the gas mileage is any better.

I did... Worked perfectly fine... Two rears for the one front.

And yes, the BMW grips fit the VFR bars...

Damn that looks good!!! :icon_clap: They really look like they were meant for the Bird. You took a lot of installation pictures... Right? Keep the Ducati sticker on... Mess with the minds of others!!!

I had the same problem with my Yosh slipons... 'Cept I didn't notice it until the muffler strap managed to cut a gouge into the swingarm. I had to loosen up the mid pipe and muffler and manhandle them until it lined up correctly. I the drilled a new hole for the pin that stakes the mid pipe to the stock crossover pipe... That's the pin that goes under the clamp...

That should do it... The price sounds aboout right. Make sure that it's rebased as a H7.

Well Done, MileHi! No problem... Thanks to my CRS, I wrote it down on the wiring diagram pages of the Honda Service manual... That way, I'll even know!

Not in the way your after... Philips manufactures HID bulbs with a D2S and D2R base... Which is designed for OEM HID applications. Most of the kits use a re-based bulb that will work in headlight housings designed for Halogen bulbs... Hence the H7/H4/H3 type base. So the short answer is no... Unless you want to try and retrofit an OEM HID assembly from some car into your Bird's housing.

HID to Harness Blk to Grn Wht to Bl

Wikipedia.... "...Different countries have some variation in what RON (Research Octane Number) is standard for gasoline, or petrol. In the UK, ordinary regular unleaded petrol is 91 RON (not commonly available), premium unleaded petrol is always 95 RON, and super unleaded is usually 97-98 RON. In the US, octane ratings in fuels can vary between 86-87 AKI (91-92 RON) for regular, through 89-90 (94-95) for mid-grade (European Premium), up to 90-94 (RON 95-99) for premium unleaded or E10 (Super in Europe)..."

Yuppers... H7 is the bulb you want... 4300° K to 6000°K is the temp of the bulb you would want if you are after the HID for quality light... Not blink... 4300° or the 5300° bulb is the closest to high noon daylight...

Check out my last post (the last post befroe yours)... It looks like Andy was still honoring it as of late Feb/ early March... I'd email Andy and ask... Betcha he'll give you the same price still.