Warchild

Sounds like you shoulda removed the front fender. I might've use a PitBull triple-tree lift and removed most of the front end to avoid ancillary damage... and just to get at components a little better. So why does the radiator have to come out? Leaking? Corroded insides that neep an acid dip?

A week ago today I replaced my Avons on the FJR (identical wheel sizes as the XX). I was at 9100 miles, and well into the indicator bands, but no cord showing. The Avons are everything everyone says about them, both good and not-so-good: Good: Stick like superglue on your fingerstips. Unbelievable in the dry, and just as phenomenal in the wet. Transitions are lightening fast. They give me the confidence to lay that bike over on hairpin turns a HELLEVA lot more than most tires I've tried (with the exception of the Dunlop D220, a tire every bit as good as the Avons except for there rear tire's dismal treadlife). Not-So-Good: I'm of the opinion after many months of reading Avon comments on the various forums that Avon's quality control of the manufacturing process is still suspect. Although Avon seems pretty good about taking back bad tires, the fact of the matter is: tires shouldn't have to go back as frequently as we seem to hear about the Avons. Getting a good balance seems to be the number one complaint. I took an amazing 35 grams of weight to get my rear Avon 46 ST tire to balance the last time I mounted one. One poor dude on another forum took 85g of weight! :shock: That ain't right..... Still and all, one can't argue with the tire's overall performance on the road, and in the end, that's all that matters. And getting the tire to last 9200 miles on a 145hp bike that's putting out 99 ft-lbs of torque is not too shabby.... :smokin:

NLH

Maybe I read the thread too fast, but I'm suprised no one has mention yet that you had the wrong chain on the bike. And it is generally understood that one should only use a staked (endless) chain on this bike, not a master-link variant. As to whether this was a contributor to your breakage, one can only speculate. Um.... you should prolly make that a 530ZVM chain....

Some more follow-up from that same guy I mentioned above, and his conversation with Metzler:

Not to further bum you out about the Z6's, but they are quickly earning a dogshit reputation in the FJR community. Here's a recent post from a fellow FJR dude who has a set of the Z6's mounted: Now mind you, the FJR is obviously bigger than the XX, but only by 45-lbs. And yes, while the FJR does have greater horsepower and torque than the XX, the difference really isn't huge. I'm betting, Pete, that your Z6's won't last for shit on the 'Bird. :???: If it's any consolation, though, they oughta perform well as long as they have tread on them.....

Yep...X-11 is the shit-hot CCT to have.... and coincidently enough, I am about to install that bad boy this afternoon! I got in with the original X-11 Group Buy that Joe did a couple years ago, I just never got around to installing it. Too, I also think I never really picked up on how worn my factory CCT is, since I wear 34 NRR earplugs religiously. But after running the engine a lot while trouble-shooting my toasted stator, it's pretty obvious the OEM tensioner is toast as well....

I though the folks having heat issues were the dudes running the Clear Alternatives lenses... but then, I'm old, and could be wrong. So what happened, Joe... didja almost get whacked recently by some BDC who claimed they "didn't see you"?

For the most part, yes, that's correct. Stick a fresh pair of platinums and a fresh pair of irridiums in two identical Blackbirds, and you won't be able to tell the difference in performance. HOWEVER.... at around, say, 12,000 miles down the road, you'll be able to tell a *significant* difference.

But even connected, shouldn't they all be pushing 18 volts? One leg is about 5-6 volts AC, the other leg fluctuates wildly between 11-14 volts AC, and the third one is the 18 volt leg.

NLH

NLH

Even if they look okay, they should be replaced around 50K, or so. At that point, they've had enough compression to be permanently deformed, even if they otherwise look okay.

Pics, dammit!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted: I've been thinking of doing the same with my XX! Let's check 'em out........!

I scored mine at ServiceHonda.com many years ago... for the ST1100.

You pull the clutch in, and all is silent, yes? It's just the clutch basket rattling around.... nothing to be concerned about. Many Blackbirds do that, particularly when cold. I personally have found that there is very little clutch basket noise once the bike is hot. But whenever it's cold, you can hear it fairly well upon startup unless you pull the clutch in. Nothing to be concerned about, you're good...

Oh, come now. If you're gonna blow $800 on some equipment, this is the baby to blow it on.... and your motorcycling freinds will love you for it!

silverbird1100, are you still in need of a R/R? PM me if you do.....

I scored some from my local Home Depot when I was making the base to my CUNT Box (photo below), but sadly, I don't recall their size:

I've tried a grunch of tires in the past 60,000 miles on Night Train, and none have given me the cornering confidence and grip that the D220s did. Complete and totally AWESOME tire in every respect except one.... treadlife! My rear D220 was completely toast at 4500 miles. If I could get these tires for a song, I'd ride on the D220s exclusively. But the way I ride, I can't afford their abbreviated treadlife. :evil:

I would. And, in fact, I did! http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=24

It's a slightly different electrical situation with the pre-99, non-EFI Blackbirds. Although the alternator has a good bit less capacity on the '97-'98 carbed bikes (390-watts @5000RPM, nominal), I am unsure how much (if any) the ignition system itself really changed over the years. It might have changed. The alternator is of course different. The regulator/retifier is different. Are the coils different? Other ignition components different? Maybe. A quick comparison of part numbers of various ignition system components might provide some indication. My suspicion is that you can prolly go 32K also, but.... I don't know for sure.

Thanks, Bill... thought it might be higher... wasn't sure. That's a pretty healthy interval!

16K, IIRC. Might be more than that... been awhile since I've seen the maintanence schedule for '01 and later models, which come stock with Iridiums from the factory.

You musta missed the third post down in this thread..... the FIAMMs are passe'; you want the Magnum Blasters, 138db. See: http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=24