jon haney

With my 99 BB I get about 33 mpg with mixed driving and 40-42 on the highway at legal speeds.

Okay, thanks. I guess I'll leave it there then. It just makes a pretty good clunk when you put it into first at that speed. Try this: When you pull in the clutch, wait a couple of seconds before putting it in first. That lets the transmission gears slow down or stop so it won't "clunk" . Or at least not clunk as loud. Lowering the idle RPM also helps.

Problem #1 sounds like an electrical issue with the charging system. Problem #2 could be the valve train, but your description of the noise is very similar to what my drive chain does when it gets a stuck or tight link. Wouldn't hurt to check.

If you plan your trip right, maybe one of our great members could lone you his tools and garage so you don't have to do it at a motel. If you're coming through Wichita, KS, I can make some room in the garage for you. Hell, I might even help.

That just "drilled" it home for me. They sound like a chainsaw or something. That didn't sound deep and power filled like most after market pipes. That's exactly the sound I'd be trying to avoid, high pitched and buzzy. My RS-3 is a full system with no P/C and runs great except it still has the same flat spot around 3500 rpm that it had with the stock cans. Didn't even know I had the flat spot until I saw it on the dyno sheet. 138 HP at the rear wheel with 26K showing on the clock. Toss a PC on there and get it mapped right and you'll get rid of that flat spot. Ya, I know, but then I'll have a flat spot in my wallet. It's not bothering me enough to want to spend the money. If I do get a P/C, I'll be more interested in leaning-out for more mileage.

I'm also not a fan of drilling the stock cans. The few I've heard (and it may be that they didn't do something right, I don't know) have sounded tinny and buzzy, but didn't sound at all "performance enhanced". I'd hold on to the stockers to sell later, should you part with your XX, and go for some slip-ons or a full system, though I think with a full system you definitely need to do the Power Commander remap. My RS-3 is a full system with no P/C and runs great except it still has the same flat spot around 3500 rpm that it had with the stock cans. Didn't even know I had the flat spot until I saw it on the dyno sheet. 138 HP at the rear wheel with 26K showing on the clock.

I've got a 4 into 1 Yosh RS-3 system that burbles nicely at lower RPMs but has a nice howl above 6000. It has over 30K of mostly around town miles and a dozen or so track days. Still sounds as good as the day I bought it. The slip-ons will probably last even longer.

Jason, I think a Dy-mag 5-spoke cast magnesium front wheel would look great with The VFR rear.

I have the 2-line Galfer kit in the stock length with VFR bars and I still have about a half inch of extra play with the forks fully extended.

chatvmax, if it helps, I have a inner clutch hub and a couple other parts from a FI (99+) XX that you can send off for work. So you wouldn't miss any riding. Ya did it now. We're going to have to start calling you MrGoodExxample.

Then if it doesnt work i will try getting with the company mentioned in next response,, well thanks guys,, that gives me a starting place.... ill keep you all posted.. PS: what was the $$ on the remanufactured clutch basket...?? It was a $100 plus shipping, but that was about 5 years ago. The clutch cushion has stiffer springs, so your lever pull will be a little harder. Try the bleeding first. If your not drag racing, that may be enough to satisfy you.

Payment sent.

My first 99 did it just like you say launching at anything over 3500 rpm. The 99 I'm riding now isn't near as bad. I have no idea why. If you want a real smooth clutch engagement, call Brock Davidson Enterprises. He can make you one of his clutch cushions that will give you what you want. You will have to sent him your inner clutch hub for machining.

What? No forks?

Thanks for the offer, but I'm not betting I can cut the sleeve off with out damaging the tube. I'd rather have a set that is stock and unmolested. Thanks, again.

Prefer a good stock set of forks, but will be happy with just the right leg.

Well, the heating didn't work. It's officially a lost cause. Anybody got a good set of 99 or later forks they would like to sell? I don't actually need the damping cartridges, if that makes a difference. Also posting on the sales floor. Note to all: If you have your fork lowers powder-coated, make absolutely sure you get all the sand and debris out before you re-assemble. Even one or two grains can fuck things up bad!

Right fork seal was leaking, so I decided to put in a new one and some new bushings. Everything was going normal until I went to bang the seal out. When the tube bottoms-out on the slider, it is "sticking". I have to hit the bottom of the fork with a rubber mallet to get it un-stuck. About 30 times of this and the seal hasn't moved yet. (Yes, I removed the wire clip that holds the seal in and the whole damping cartridge.) I decided to pull the other fork apart to see if I was forgetting something. Every thing went perfect on that one. Five bangs and the seal and bushing were out. BTW this is the third time I've had these forks apart, so it's not new to me. My theory is that the slider bushing is so worn it is trying to go into the outer tube bushing. This would put pressure on the outer bushing making it more resistant and explain the "sticking". Anybody got any ideas? Or maybe a spare right fork leg going cheap.

Geez Red, you didn't have to call me a lazy fuck. But I do appreciate the advice especially about the fender because I don't have a way to jack the bike high enough to get the wheel out, wouldn't of realized that until I pulled the axel and cussed alot and probably thrown a wrench. Thanks! You would be amazed how much work you can get done on your bike when you are not posting for short cuts.

What adjustment would that be?

btw. i bought some "chrome" deer whistlers so now instead of ignoring me as i ride past on 100 the deer stare at me. +1 on going to the track. BTW. My dad used to have those chrome deer whistles on his bike. I believe they are still in the ditch along with his broken windscreen where he hit (you guessed it) a DEER! Luckily he only got a couple of scrapes and was able to ride the bike home. We were on the way to a local bike rally on a route where at least a hundred Harleys had already been down. Two does were bedded down along the side of the road, and when we got close they jumped up and ran right in front of us. I think whistles are only good if the deer are already standing in the middle of the road, which is preferable to having them hide in the grass.

+1 My first BB wore out one pad before the other on the right front caliper because the slides were sticking. I cleaned and re-greased the slides. Problem solved. My second BB has 30K on it and 7 or 8 track days with no signs of any warping (except for the rider).

It would be interesting to see how the E-brake works with the hydraulic calipers. I had an 03 Dodge Dakota with rear discs and they just built a small drum brake inside of each disc to act as the E-brake. Glad to know there is a lighter and no doubt less expensive way to do it.

Get a used one off of Ebay. It is not worth the hassle and uncertainty of trying to weld it.

+1 If that doesn't work, replace the guts of the switch from another one. Anything to keep from doing all that other work. (Don't forget to hook up the wires for the brake light switch when your done.)