SwampNut

NO! The aftermarket coverages are shit and are more expensive. Dealer cost on the official 4-year extension is $300, MSRP is $600. My dealer will sell it to anyone I refer by phone for $450. It covers everything that the original warranty does, no deductibles, no bullshit. If you keep your HRCA membership, together they even cover expenses if you get stranded overnight, and more.

Here's an idea that's opposite of Magical's... I replaced my right mirror with a FLAT piece of mirror glass (the stockers are slightly convex). This gives me a better view for approaching cops and such. I had to push the adjustment all the way out, but it works fine.

Yes. The NEP goes on without grip removal. As far as heated grips, I just found the Hot Grips way to chunky and hard. I went with the heated inserts ($27) from http://www.heeters.com instead, so I could use the gel grips. Perfect results.

Yes, unless it's so stretched it will let it fit...then you need a new chain for that reason... :grin: I got 20k from my original chain, but that included the first 10k miles with the fucking crap stock tires so I wasn't riding it as hard. On the second chain I learned to wheelie it, and rode a couple of really hard rides (one which killed a tire in 1200 miles). That one was ready for replacement at 17k or so. My third one is doing great at 10k, but usually the most stretch and wear happens in the last 4k of life. Why does mileage vary? Well, first off, everybody has a different opinion on when to change a chain, so it may not vary as much as you think. Riding style will have a huge effect. Cleaning is very tough on a chain so if you clean it a lot it will probably last less. Lube has very little effect on chain wear. Unless you're physically seeing metal galling, it doesn't matter. Use WD-40 if you want. You cannot help a chain's life by lubing it as long as you're not seeing metal-to-metal transfer. You do help sprocket life with lube.

Ok, got it. How about stacking a couple washers under the rear mount point? A little will go a long way. I've got one of mine all the way out too, but it does work for me at that level.

That's why I recommend and use the DID 530ZVM--it is the stock chain. I'm going to try the RK only because someone I trust highly recommended it. Many people put on a lesser 530 (because dealers are idiots and most say it's no big deal) and of course get less miles.

Stock chain is a DID 530ZVM. Great choice. RK now has one that is heavier, and I will try that next time, but I don't know if it is better or not. 530GXW I believe. Stock OEM rear sprocket. In fact, you don't need to replace the rear unless it has a LOT of miles. It's that tough. Front...do you want stock gearing or a little more quickness? Stock for stock gearing, AFAM 16t if you want to quicken the acceleration (that's what I've been running for 30k miles).

Let me understand this...you just want to adjust where the mirror points? The mirror glass part swivels inside the mirror body. Hold the body and use your thumbs to push on the edges of the glass.

Not really. At last year's meet someone asked me about my suspension mods without even knowing I had done any. He said when he was riding next to me on the freeway his bike was bouncing around while mine was just solid. It's an improvement you can feel everywhere.

They are much better than the 207's, which are just crap on the street. On the other hand, a friend just had his 208 develop a fist-sized bubble while he was cruising along at 150. Dunlop told him to fuck off on a warranty replacement. Meanwhile Avon has replaced any questionable tires instantly, and I've heard of Michelin doing the same. Buying Dunlop is like buying Suzuki...

The 714 is exactly like what I have. I'm sure like most things they get sold with different names on the package. Mine certainly said Pro Grips on the package; that's what Cycle Gear carries.

That's because you don't know how much better it can be. I said the same thing you did until I did a minor upgrade, and started to realize how much it really needed.

I don't think I did an article because it is so easy. Open master cylinder. Loosen bleed valve on slave, attach a hose. Remove as much fluid from master as possible, fill with clean fluid. Squeeze lever and hold, open bleed valve, close when it stops flowing fast. Double pump and hold lever, open valve, etc. until it flows clean. Brake fluid eats paint, discolors plastics. DOT 5.1 fluid will stay cleaner many times longer then DOT 4. DOT 5 is NOT compatible, only 5.1.

If you look in the audio system mods section, you can see photos of the grips. These specific ones are very different from the others, and the best I've tried.

(COUGH)bullshit(COUGH) Old wive's tale spread by oil marketers to justify charging double or more. It's well proven. See the oil FAQ in the FAQ section of the site for links, test copies, etc. Mobil 1 is used by all the long-distance guys; people with a couple 100k miles on their Gold Wings and beemers, and all the high-mile sport bike riders I know. I sold my last bike with 130k miles, nearly all on M1. The fact that it is excellent is undisputable at this point.

I've tried the Supersports (previous version, 39/40) and didn't find the loss of tire life was worth the very marginal improvements. The others offer enough traction to scrape hard parts all day, so what is the point of less tire life?

Yup, what Randy said. For tools I'd buy a socket for the rear nut (1 1/16" with a 1/2" drive and a breaker). In fact, I bought a sliding 11" breaker bar which fits under the seat. The stock tool broke on me on a ride, I could have been fucked if it wasn't for the other bikes having tools.

I'd get the 46 myself. I have run the 39 with a 36 for many miles (hated the 35). Avon says all of those tires are mixable.

This does NOT apply to their fog lamps, or other specialty lamps. Only the "extra bright" headlamp replacement bulbs. You can see all the details on the site in the FAQ. Basically they wind the coils on a larger form so the light is much more focused, thus it SEEMS brighter to the eye. But there is horrible fall-off outside the bright center spot; just what you don't want on a bike. This is something I have personally measured with a digital photographic light meter, and is backed up by many other tests.

They raised the price? Bastards. Still a great deal though. The 15w50 is so well-proven in motorcycling it's not even a debate any more.

Actually I'm just fucking with you of course, I checked them out and like the concept a lot. I want something to keep my garage door opener and phone it. I just didn't like that it doesn't have a map pocket, which is another need I have.

Yeah, so does the Powerbronze.

There is nothing worse than the PIAA bulbs. Even cheap shit $10 bulbs might be better; can't be worse. The Philips Vision Plus has scored above ALL others in every test.

Randy, you need to get a flea & tick collar for your bike. There's a huge tick sucking the gas out of it.

Definitely doesn't work that way. Plus anything other than 15w50 has dangerous levels of Molybdenum. The 15w50 is what everyone uses in bikes of all types.