SwampNut

Hmm, I guess I should...

Stock error on the analog speedo is 8% exactly. Error with one tooth down front sprocket is 15% total.

At 215# with the 1.0 springs, I still wish they were a little tighter.

Bahahaha, what stupidity. Absolutely nothing that your friend's dealer told him is true. That asshole needs to be taken out and shot. You should not use oils with Moly in bikes; could make the clutch slip. You can switch back and forth any time you like. Mobil 1 is known safe, thoroughly proven in testing to oulive nearly all other oils, and is cheap.

Those things are crap! I flat-tracked my last bike through an intersection thanks to those pieces of shit. Just get the Avons. Every tire is a compromise (life/traction/handling), Avon just came up with the most pleasant combination with little compromised of each.

You sure it's not just bent? My bike leans over quite a bit, a result of the stand bending from doing the sidestand-swing-around trick one too many times. Damn that thing is thin compared to the weight of the bike.

Oddly enough, I got as much mileage from an AV39 (sport) as I did from the AV35 (sport-touring). The AV40 wore much faster than the AV36 or AV46, of course, but the fronts were equal.

Nah, just that many people are probably tired of answering this FAQ, so he may get much better answers looking up the previous discussions.

Nah, just that many people are probably tired of asking this FAQ, so he may get much better answers looking up the previous discussions.

When unlatched, the throttle should work just as it normally does. When latched, it should hold but still be moveable with light effort. Note that there is often some molding flash on the inside of the holding part, and it helps to clean it up. Also it will break in after you use it a bit. Adjust it properly, then work the throttle for a minute with the lock latched.

You should do a search on this topic, it's been covered a couple times. WaterWetter is the answer. In your area you have to worry about freezing, so you can't just dump the anti-freeze altogether, but can probably reduce the ratio.

I've only used the 45/46. I also ran the old AV36 rear with the new 45 front for a while.

The front definitely must be replaced. It wears fast. In fact, I think it's worse than I'd like even before the chain is done. I'm thinking the chain MIGHT last longer if changed sooner, and I plan to try that soon. The rear, however, will easily go for two chain changes, maybe more.

Hey! Maybe THAT'S why some people are getting uneven brake pad wear!

I've gone airborne on a dirt road and didn't hear them top out (though I'm sure they did--softly as they should). You can do the remove/replace job with the forks on the bike. I just did it for someone else's XX last weekend. However, after having done it, I'd just as soon pull them off. I've done it both ways, and it actually takes more time and a lot more effort to do them on the bike. All the shit on the forks has to come off anyway, to do either one. Also, to remove and replace the damper bolts you will simply have to have an air tool or an electric impact PLUS you will need to make your own tool to fit it (unless you happen to own a 6mm 1/2" drive tool). I made a tool with a 6mm 3/8" socket, 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, and a 6mm hex key which I cut so only the long part was used, then stuck that in the 6mm socket. So your best bet is just pull them off, pump the damper rod and stanchions while upside down until all the oil is out, and replace.

Change them both. The Avon sport-touring are a great choice. The stock tires suck a lot, so you'll instantly feel better on those.

I'd guess it's the clutch. Does it stop when you pull the clutch? If so--that's normal.

AHA! Well, you're supposed to adjust it with the fork COMPRESSED. You've got a shitload of oil in there that shouldn't be there. So the oil is acting as a spring and making the forks top out. Damn, if you think that rides good, you're gonna jizz when you feel them with the right oil at the right level! Remove ALL the oil. You can do this by removing the forks and inverting/pumping, or by removing the bottom bolts with an air impact (will need it for replacement also). Refill with the right oil, pump the forks up and down 10 times and the damper rod 15-20 times. Then measure the height with the forks compressed and the spring OUT. The capacity of both forks is just under a liter, just over a quart. When you buy oil look for a liter jug--if it's a quart it won't be enough.

Sugar alcohols DO NOT count. Look at the "net effective carbs" which all these have on them, usually on the front in a circle. Maltitol, Hydrolysate, Sucralose, and the other so-called "sugar alcohols" do not have any effect on blood sugar, so they don't count. Some packages don't have the "net effective carbs" label, and don't seperate out the sugar alcohols. In this case they usually show the amount of the specific ingredient, so you need to know what they are. Usually though they will say "sugar free" on them. Just watch for other sneaky carbs like flour, corn, corn starch, etc.

The XX was a huge upgrade in smoothness and a pretty nice upgrade in power (that bike was fucking fast too though), but I was disappointed to lose the adjustable suspension and the adjustable windscreen. That reach-down-and-twist preload adjuster was something I really loved for passenger adjustments. And believe it or not, that bike was as reliable as this one. No real issues in 130k miles, still running fine though low on compression. A little different from today's Suzuki "quality."

Hmm, just thought of something. Did you measure the height with the forks compressed, or extended...? Do you remember how much total oil you used?

I don't think it would, but I'm not a real expert on the subject. I think you made a mistake in the rebound valving, and with the extra-stiff compression due to the heavy oil, it's pumping up. Check your sag, to see if the effective spring rate/preload is correct. It should sag a little over an inch.

I don't think I know anybody who is happy with the 020.

:shock: Ok well, I guess we can fix you right up. Change the oil to 5w. Your 10w is FOUR TIMES stiffer than what they recommend (due to fluid dynamics, double weight = four times less flow). Also note that the recommended RaceTech brand oil is actually a 2.5-5w, lighter than a true 5w. Set the oil height to 160mm. This is important. I'm going to guess you might have too much oil. Do you remember how much you used? You should have 20mm preload. Your 22mm is close enough. Now while you have all this apart, go through the instructions regarding the shim stacks again, and double check everything. Double check the hole you drilled in the damper rod (you did drill that, right?). Make sure the rebound valve kit is not upside down. Have you measured your static sag?

Either you guys only ride for fun or you ride like much bigger assholes than I do while commuting...