tomek

Radial tires are much easier to work on then old bias play rubber. Peter`s 45 year old OEM tires on his ST1100 was the major pain in the ass to break a bead.Lots of frustration. Anyway,tires on my bikes typical don`t last more then 1/2 year,so they are not "welded" to the rim. Basically I hammer two 8 inch irons between tire and the rim ,let`s say 4-5 inches a part,step on the tire with my foot while pushing on the irons,and bingo.All the rest is very easy. I use wd40 as a lubricant,trick that I learnt from pros from truck tire service .It is amazing how fast they can wipe out big semi tires.

Forget that stupid owner manual.Much faster way is to prop fuel tank,remove air box and bingo you are there. That owner`s manual was written by very well educated young engineer who never held a wrench in his hands or got grease under the nails. BTW proper way to examine electrodes on tiny iridium plugs is to use magnifier.You would look for rounded up edges of electrodes. It is hard to tell from pictures,but it looks like there is a lot of carbon deposits,.Do you have power commander? It looks like bike is running too rich.

It is not like you are gonna killed right away,etc.Race take off will be O.K. in warm weather,just be carefull when it is cold or dump. They may have lots of meat in the middle,but being race tire plus XX weighting some 150 pounds more then 600 or 1000 race bike don`t expect many miles. IMHO they are not worth all the labor to put them on. I would not use them even if I had endless supply of free race take offs.Life span is just too short.

Here is my perspective on Corbin.The one that I had on Fj1200 was very,very good,no complains. Corbin for XX is mixed bag,no sliding forward and hitting fuel tank with your private parts,but why in the hell it has to be so hard.I had a honest pain in the butt after 10 -12 hours rides,I started to use thick,wool blanket to save my ass from suffering. Another issue,your legs will bend more since the seat is lower. In mean it is better then stock seat,but far from perfect. I also had Corbin on 99 r1 ( very good) and 04 r1 (disaster).The foam,or whatever they call it is only 1/4 of an inch thick in the seating area, the whole thing is as hard as wooden board. After 6 years,Corbin on XX was worn out ( the seat cover). I did`t bother with corbin for new cover( they want almost as much for cover as for new seat) so I decided to give a chance to Seargent. They made new cover from basket wave vinyl,raised seating area by 1.5 inches,all for less then 200 bucks. Finally I have a perfect seat,well at least for me. BTW I think that leather makes seats harder then vinyl.Plus it soaks up with water,dries up in the sun,basically impractical for me. Flat,plain vinyl is very hot in the summer,but basket wave pattern allows air to circulate,it is very comfortable in high temps.

Try your second key,I believe I used honda`s HP chain lube when I had probs with mine last time.

Change them,or you`ll have your trip ruined by tires worry. Don`t ask me how I know this.

Steel wool and contact brake cleaner.

Bearings,worn tire,Givi,etc,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you guys can chase this problem all day and night but in reality this problem is related to frame,forks and swingarm stifness. BTW you don`t know what headshake is unless you rode 98-99 R1 on race tires without steering dumper. Just remember to keep at least one hand on the grips and all will be O.K.

Personally,I think that running almost ANY boost pressure without very efficient intercooling on 11.0 compression motor is very retarded thing to do and it is just a matter of time before motor blows up.Yea you could retard ignition ,but it is just band -aid. You could make a plenum as a part of air to water to air intercooling system ( like supercharged Jaguars),you won`t be on boost for long time on the bike anyway so you water to air don`t have to be big. Picking up turbos compression side is not that difficult.You need to learn how to read compression maps.It is simple.There are books that cover those subjects,there is no need to reinvent everything on your own. Haynes "Forced Induction Performance Tunning" by Graham Bell covers pretty much everything that you will need to know in you project,it is golden.

If you want very consistent power,wet of dry,I would go with oem pad.It is sintered anyway. Higher performance aftermarked pads will give you better stopping power once they dry. EBC HH is O.K. when wet,but OEM is better in these conditions.

I think I checked them once,they were within limit,but I got them closer anyway. If you are anal about how engine runs you should check them out after valve check/adjustment. It is similar to carbed bikes ,I think it takes 5 mm adapters,you synch 1 with 2, 3with 4 ,etc

Grattan,Gingerman ? What Club do you ride with ? I do track days with NESBA and STT plus private club. If that is for track days I would advise against "rail" trailer.You are gonna carry extra fuel,that stinky gas inside of a car is no fun.Plus tires,stands,etc. Get someting with at least 13 inch wheels,those small ones will spin like crazy,risking wheel bearing failure. Let me tell you,many times track activity continues also on your way home. Not that I know that from personal experience,hmm,but Saab with turbo engine will top out at 118 mph while pulling flat bad 5X8 trailer with 2 bikes. That is why I would go with bigger wheels. What about Autobahn,that track is fun,close to home,STT will be there in 2 weeks,I`ll be there plus my track buddies,we all are very good looking,handsome guys.

This is how Kosmoski ( founder of House of Kolor ) recommends After Uc 35 cured for 1-2 days,it needs to be wet sant with 500-800 to get ride of dirt and orange peel,from my experiance be very carefull on the edges.It is very easy to sand thru the clear. Don`t worry on flat surfaces. Clean everything with water,no chemical cleaners at this stage. One light,bound coat of ufc 35 and followed by 2 very wet coats.Overreduce ufc35 by 50 % to 2:1.5:1 proportion. Ufc 35 is more expensive then uc35 but really puts a life into a paint job.The results are amazing. It is brighter,better gloss and thruly crystal clear ,but all the screw ups in the surface preparation and base coat application will be more noticable.So don`t rush thru the steps in painting process. HOK paint is very user friendly,well,at least simple paint jobs,manuals are available on line, if you follow them,you can`t screw up. Make sure you use the mask that covers your eyes also.It seems that you can "inhale" thru your eye balls. Anyway ,I felt much better after I switched to the full mask.HOK paints are very poisonous.

horse piss should work well +1 Are you going to do clear in 2 stages,uc35,color sand and then ufc 35 ? that combo will give awesome results. For HOK paint I`ve used this place,good prices and fast delivery http://www.hokpaint.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=hokgate.bbx Johnny

I`ll disagree again,those spray can jobs simply don`t last.Main issue is lack of catalyst (hardener) in primer,if you have to use one, and in clear coat. Without hardener clear coat is not really chemicaly resistant, and will react with fuel,grease,oils etc, With spray can it is almost next to impossible to acheive uniform thickness of coats,and that will show like MoFoer on large flat surfaces.You can get away with spray can on small, curved objects. Another thing,it won`t be very stone chip resistant,in case like this pain sticks to the surface( scuffed O.E.M. finnish or primer) via mechanical grip created with sanding,pain leaving spray can nozzle has whole lot less energy vs. from paint gun,therefore won`t stick nearly as well. When painting over primer from spray can,scratches will show after couple of weeks becouse ,once again that primer is not chemicaly resistant and base coat will sink into it with time. It all depends on definition of good paint job,let me know how his paint job looks after he puts some miles on the bike.Most likely in couple of years it will look like crap. btw don`t even think about that 5$ per can paint. It is worse then yak urine. If you are going to paint over O.E.M. finish,you don`t really have to prime it again.Consider factory paint as a primer and go from there.

no

Barometric pressure is the sum of air pressure + pressure of water vapor. The effect of humidity on density of the air is small except when both the temperature and relative humidity are high. Pressure Of water vapor at 100 F is 1.93 inches of hg,if barometric pressure is 30 inches of hg true air pressure will be only 28.07 (28.07 + 1.93 =30),or 6.4 % drop. ( with relative humidity 100 % and 100 F) There is nothing in XX fuel injection system that can compensate for humidity,in this case bike will be running 6.4 % too rich .If bike has stock pipe,bike runs rich on top end anyway,with high temps + high humidity there will be noticable loss. On hot ,"sticky" days you can compensate for it by using Power Commander bottons and LEDs,I think one full blink of LED = 5% change. Baro and MAP sensores take care of barometric pressure,sea level or Colorado passes. +1 on fuel economy,I could go further on my sold-by-now 99R1 with its 4.something fuel tank.That bike could get sick fuel ecomony,like 50mpg when crusing 80-90 mph on interstate. Shovelstroke, with PC you will get 15-20 miles more from tank on interstate,no difference in city.At least that is how it worked for me.

Stock numbers for carb xx are intake 100 (very agressive number for stock bike) Exhaust 105 Possibly you could get some extra top end by increasing overlap,retarding exhaust cam to something like 100-102,but it could make midrange softer. In reality you won`t know that for sure without extensive dyno time. I would just set lobe centers to stock numbers. Don`t rely on marks to find TDC,use positive piston stopper.

You are not in U.S. ? Keep in mind that we have different octane ratings."Your" 98 equals about our 93. As far as the power I`ve see dyno runs done by Roadracing World back in 99 were xx made 2-3 more hp on premium vs regular gas. Swamp Nut says he spent whole day on the dyno,did not observe any gains. With complex fuel injection systems,knock sensors and making a compromise between fuel economy/engine responsiveness vs peak power many times some power can be gained by going to higher octane and increasing ignition advance.Whether the F.I. system on given engine can do it on its own it is diff. question. Old school thinking is not always correct in modern engines. If anyone is interested in this subject I highly recommend Graham Bell`s "Four stroke high performance tunning" His book about forced induction is also very good.

What happened ? Have you crashed,etc? I`m asking this maybe wiring is damaged,or are some objects in the fan that prevent it from spinning free. Connects the fan straight ( jump) to battery to eliminate the possibility of broken harness (wires) As far as silicone,I hope you did not sprayed your tires

I can bet 100$ that ,prior to you,last guy who massed with rear axle was dealer`s mechanic. It happened all the time back in the era when I used to help change the tires on my friends bikes. Axle nuts were almost impossible to undo-standard answer,-"well,dealer installed my last set of tires" It seems to me that some of them use airguns calibrated for tracktor trailer wheels. Anyway,you need bigger , 1/2 inch driver,those wrenches from tool kit might be too small.

Injector flow rate is NOT linear to pressure increase. Revised static flow = Sf x sguare root (Rp/op) ( I'm too stupid to find root sig. on computer) SF=static injector flow at manufacturers standard pressure Rp= reviswed fuel pressure Op=standard pressure that formula works well for small pressure increases.

Delvac is heavy duty diesel oil,stuff that you would put in semi.It has been on market for years,but Mobil1 version of that oil, 5w40 used to be hard to get,some track stops would carry that plus track service station. On the label you will see that it passes some Mack,Cat or Cummins etc norms,etc Anyway,it should work like a dream in your XX. It is direct competitor to shell rotella 5w40. It is not the same as a 'old' 5w40 suv oil,it is better.

One more thing,dude you got me tempted,I now how good ak 20 is,is there anyway matching penske shock could be worked in into this deal.Penske from Traxxion is golden.

Well,I got those for my track bike,04 r1 well over a year ago,they were running promotion back then,and first couple hundered of people who called in where put on the list. To make this story short,couple of weeks later and 750 $ I received complite kit with springs,AK 20,fork oil and some tools.They offered free install back then but I declined that. Oh yea I got matching traxxion valved penske from them too. The front kit is golden.After some very minor dialing in ( ride height,clik here or there and adjusters) I did not touch the damn thing for the rest of the season. It simply just plain works. The rear was another story as R1 suffers from the lock of slipper clutch and braking and turn in is handfull on less the brand new rear tire. You can try to combat this by softening rebound on the shock but you pay the price at corner exits with those erratic-Whoo-whoo-whoo- slides. Also the range of compression adjustement is rather limit,but still excellent. Make sure You tell them it is for road bike,Traxxion track valving is much stiffer then,lets say Race Tech, also Traxxion springs are stiffer .Traxxion 0.95 spring is more like 1.0 spring from race Tech.