tomek

I`m going to put new ZVM2 in an hour or so.That is gonna be third one,old ones lasted 33K and 32 K miles.No tight spots,but it starts to go click,click under acceleration when dry,it is time for the new one. I`m totally unanal about cleaning bike(s) or chains,just lubricate them with Spectro Super Clean,or any other chain lube I happen to use. ZVM2 is a good shite,with proper maintenance 40 K is possible.

High pressure hose,that one between the tank and fuel rail, failed on my XX.Do pressure test,power up fuel pump and see if it leaks. New hose is about,don`t remember,60 bucks,but old one can be rebuild.End fittings from the old hose can be reused,high pressure fuel hose from auto part store,couple of clamps,etc,,,,,,,5$ total.

Grease,You have greased those bearings,right ?

I had to replace pan recently due to ,,,,,,,,,overtighten bolt.( when you are too cheap/lazy to put new washer from time to time it happens ) Anyway,I had to drop headers ( full Yosh).I did not take closer look whether it was possible without removing pipes but I wanted to make sure that new pan is sealed properly ( I went gasketless).

+1,Once you`ve tried dedicated winter tires you`ll NEVER go back to all season nonsense.Never. All seasons are nowhere near dedicated winter tire on snow or ice,on the other side with all those groves and cuts they don`t have direct feel of dedicated performance summer tire.

Believe or not,there is a thread on STN dealing with "how to put rear wheel back on the bike ". But going back to your problem.I honestly think that your dealer hired those little guys http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leprechaun. I recommend this to deal with your leaking tires. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...14203126AA0gd7f

1. Buy good book that attacks this subject like Ienatsch`s Sport Bike Riding Techniques ( all areas of riding) or Code`s Twist of whatever ( he deals with cornering only). 2.Forget everything that you have read in this thread or anywhere else on Internet. 3 Practice,preferably track days.

+1 what Stan said.More on idle circut and how it operates and screw opening vs pilot jest size. http://www.factorypro.com/ --> Technical Support--> Motorcycle Tunning Tech --> scroll down to "I" to Idle and cruise,pilot jet size.

+2.

I have stock shock with 132 k miles on it.Does not leak.You can have it for 0.01 $.

Give us more info,,,,,,rpm range,is your bike stock,pipe,air filter,power commander,etc

It basically comes down to this,,,,,,,my pipe is better then your pipe,,,,

If you guys wanna ride 929/954 with welded cases-good luck and have a nice day.Just don`t go paranoid,becouse the swingarm is mounted directly to cases.

You need to remove it only if using DOT 4.DOT 3- it can stay in place. Why ?

As far as ghetto engineering and/or bike maintenance you U.S. born people will never catch up to my level. Having grown up in socialist Poland I have extensive and unsurpassed experience in getting the job done without proper tools and parts.

My "solidly mounted wheel" is a wheel laying on the top of old/new tire. Practice,gentelman,practice.Two short irons,some rim protectors ( ghetto version),WD40 and hammer.That is it. Whipping out old tire ,etc is fasts and easy,removing,balancing,installing wheels back on the bike,that is what eats time.I hate balancing stage of tire changing process. I can do 2 wheels in 1 hour or less.Everything,wheels back on the bike. BTW, in case of XX it is better,if you are doing both wheels at the time,to keep rear wheel off the bike.That way front fender can stay in place,just tilt the bike and slide front wheel out/in.

Let`s face it,as far as road,street bike,I don`t give a crap about tires as long as I get decent mileage out of them.Square,inverted triangle profile,I just don`t care.I did got 7-8 k miles from my from front d220,so it`s all about $$$. I recently decided to finally give big suspension upgrade to my XX.After 10 years and 132 K miles.I spent entire 25 bucks for fresh fork fluid.

That rear was,if I remember right,awful but front was O.K.,I mean good pilot will fly on the barn door. 60 bucks ?,Hell yea,I`ve ordered 2. Thanks Scotty.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl...x-2001/o/m10716 then scroll down to Throttle Body,parts 8,9 and 10. His bike might be in the need of tune up, new spark plugs, valve adjustments and starter valves synchronization. ( technically in case of XX throttle bodies don`t get adjusted,just air bypass circuits,a.k.a. starter valves )

The most recent set of regs that killed fuel economy took effect in 2004 I think.On older 460 hp N14 Cummins we could get 6.0-6.5 mpg in local,city driving. Later we switched to 475 hp Cummins ISX ( very nice motor BTW),those were new,low emmisions engines,fuel consumption went up big time,barely 5 mpg. I understand that in interstate driving the difference is much smaller. Those new motors under the load don`t sound like traditional diesels,they just "hissssssss",they get EGR effect by "artificialy" increasing before turbo back pressure in exhaust.Commercial diesels are high (20-35 psi) boost engines,so exhaust gesses cannot be just be just sucked in into intake. In any rate,it kills fuel economy.

Dennic Kirk sells refill kits for Hot Cams.That way you can get shims in the thickness range that you actually need.In my dealings with 5 mm shims I only needed them in 1.6-1.8mm range.

Inspect, clean and possibly adjust wax element.It opens and closes bypass circut ( starter valves) in throttle body assembly. What is the idle speed on fully warmed up engine ?.Perhaps is too low,that is why it dies at 100 F.

Well,low emmision regulations for commercial on highway diesel trucks killed fuel economy to the tune of 5-15 %.Price of those trucks increased by good couple of grand too.Those engines run EGR, cat converters,needed new spec oils,dealers need special aparatus to clean exhaust filters.Bigger radiators,longer chassis to find the place of all that crap,etc. Lesser fuel economy means higher demand,(wonder why diesel is now more expensive then even premium when years ago was cheaper ?),that means more fuel has to be refined,delivered,pumped,etc so at the end those new rules hardly "save environment".

Interesting... but now that I think about it... I think I Do need to put a Check valve in the crankcase breather line to the air-box if there is not already one there........... That way I still get the Benefits of Vacuum to the Case, No Exhaust contamination or dilution, and No pressure in the case, and as Stan pointed out for better Oil stability. ..... Thanks. Just for Clarification... in my opinion, Block off PAIR = Good. Block of Crankcase Breather = Bad. Clarification,,,I`m not disputing benefits of the vacum in crankcase,higher-the better, it is no brainer. Why whould real AFR change ? In stock configuration blowby gases go into airbox and dilute fresh charge, but in healthy engine with very good piston/cylinder seal that is irrelevent,I`m just routing them into exhaust headers,so it does not matter,crank case breather is not blocked.PAIR system has reed plates/valves,gases can go only one way.It is my ghetto version of proper crankcase vacum system that is using exhaust scavenging effect. Like I`ve said,I put 37 k miles with above explained system,no oil consumption,no engine leaks,no carbon build up in pipes or ports.In shitty motor it might create problems,but I don`t have any. BTW,I`ve done the same thing in my R1.

Just becouse I like to open can of worms,,, point could be made that in Ram Air system crankase vent can actually increase pressure in high speed riding,,,,,,,no vacum at all in air box,Sport Rider ran some tests years ago,at 170 mph pressure in airbox was about 5% higher then atmosheric. It does not take a genius to marry crankase vent with PAIR system,you just need to disable/bypass solenoid, reed valves are already there,,,,,,,. Some Suzuki AMA teams ( Jordan) were running that in Superstock but AMA called that illegal,they got DQed. I had to remove my exhaust header a week or two ago in order to replace oil pan ,after 37k miles ports and pipes looked normal,no heavy carbon deposits.