tomek

I told you fricking people to do PAIR-crankcase vent mode two years ago but as a dumb immigrant I can get no respect here. . http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...526&hl=pair Value of reducing/creating vacum in the crankcase has been known since 5 B.C.

Carquest has sumfing called tire bead sealer,part # 40319.Use it to mount your tire.You`ll thank me when it is to to remove that tire. They also sell stick on weights,identical to motionpro or K&L ,different packaging thought.Better price,box of 30 stripes for about 30 $.Part # 1000360.

I replaced my OEM`s at about 90k.Wheel bearings were still good,but I did them as a form of preventive maintenance.Two of All Balls failed within next 30 Ks. OEM steering bearings were shoot,they got replaced by tapered All Balls.Those proved to be PITA,If they are set not to be loose at cool temps,cool motor and frame,they can go really tight in the mid summer when everything gets really hot.And vice versa. I got them dissembled,regreased with some unobtanium synthetic grease.They still do it.On the top of that after 40 K they did develop grove,notch, etc in "center position".Bike is ready for new set. I`m not claiming that all tapered steering bearings are bad, but All Balls plainly suck,they are not top quality parts. I just checked my Internet source for OEM parts,for 99XX two front bearings and seals are about 30 bucks,,,,,,,,why I ever bothered with All Balls junk ?

The stock regulator for '01 and up is 50psi. The '99 and '00 were 43psi, I believe. how bad would it be to have installed an '01 50 psi in a '99? Revised injector flow,or fuel flow will equal to the square root of 50/43 X whatever injector flows on 43 psi of pressure,basically it will increase by about 8%. Your motor will run 8% richer everywhere,whether there is need for it or not. So, if motor was at 14.7 AFR at given load and rpms it`ll change to about 13.6, etc,.Basically you would be wasting fuel.It is like tunning swiss,mechanical watch with impact wrench. I would not try to fix mixture problems at certain loads/rpm by changing FPR only.Now ,FPR and Power Commander and such that it different story.But if already have power commander you don't need different FPR to change mixture . Basically higher fuel pressures are used if your injectors are maxed out and you need little more flow from them. Other then that there is no real point in bumping your fuel pressure on normally aspirated motor.

NoMar,please ,it has to be one of the biggest fads of motorcycle subculture in resent years.600 $ + for muscle powered changer ? Spend couple of bucks more and get this http://www.eagleequip.com/Merchant2/mercha...ct_Code=GLO-400, or spend 50 bucks for couple of good spoons,some rim protectors, build your own bead braker from materials widely available from,let`s say,Home Depot. Many people tend to think those NoMars are the best thing since sliced bread,I frankly think it is retarded to spend so much cashola on stone age tire changer. That is all,flame me.

All Balls suck.Period.Quality of bearings is not up to OEM standards.Cheap Made in China shit. I`m also very familiar with those loose dust seals. Next time I`ll gladly pay more and get OEM.

Wut ? I don`t see correlation whatsoever,,,,,,,,,but perhaps you would have to hire Schwarzenegger or N1k for those stiff springs, BTW ,those intake ports are friking HUGE,good think it is a turbo motor. When I called to order they said it would not work on spring pressures over 40. Something about the snap function of it. Yes the pressures are higher and really to much for hand. Would have really liked to have tried it. All I did to the ports was match the seats to the ports as they were smaller by 1/8 inch all the way around, and clean the casting slag out. The bowl is not enlarged. I do change the width of the transition, but nothing to the top and bottom there, other than smooth the surface. Now the entrance I do work a lot. He wants it to flow, and it will a lot better. It was nasty, but the seats were stunning. I tried to get some pictures of the seats brfore, and they are in the photobucket account, but were not lighted well enough.java script:bbc_pop() Stock ports are fugly and actually too large in stock,normally aspirated form,I mean stock cam,etc.I don`t remember exact numbers but calculated velocity was below 300ft/sec.That is late 80`s, early 90`s way of thinking.I`ve made them smaller,pulls like tractor now. If you wanna try that goofy tool PM me your shipping address and I`ll Priority Mail it on Monday.I won`t need it till winter .

Wut ? I don`t see correlation whatsoever,,,,,,,,,but perhaps you would have to hire Schwarzenegger or N1k for those stiff springs, BTW ,those intake ports are friking HUGE,good think it is a turbo motor.

I`m going to put new ZVM2 in an hour or so.That is gonna be third one,old ones lasted 33K and 32 K miles.No tight spots,but it starts to go click,click under acceleration when dry,it is time for the new one. I`m totally unanal about cleaning bike(s) or chains,just lubricate them with Spectro Super Clean,or any other chain lube I happen to use. ZVM2 is a good shite,with proper maintenance 40 K is possible.

High pressure hose,that one between the tank and fuel rail, failed on my XX.Do pressure test,power up fuel pump and see if it leaks. New hose is about,don`t remember,60 bucks,but old one can be rebuild.End fittings from the old hose can be reused,high pressure fuel hose from auto part store,couple of clamps,etc,,,,,,,5$ total.

Grease,You have greased those bearings,right ?

I had to replace pan recently due to ,,,,,,,,,overtighten bolt.( when you are too cheap/lazy to put new washer from time to time it happens ) Anyway,I had to drop headers ( full Yosh).I did not take closer look whether it was possible without removing pipes but I wanted to make sure that new pan is sealed properly ( I went gasketless).

+1,Once you`ve tried dedicated winter tires you`ll NEVER go back to all season nonsense.Never. All seasons are nowhere near dedicated winter tire on snow or ice,on the other side with all those groves and cuts they don`t have direct feel of dedicated performance summer tire.

Believe or not,there is a thread on STN dealing with "how to put rear wheel back on the bike ". But going back to your problem.I honestly think that your dealer hired those little guys http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leprechaun. I recommend this to deal with your leaking tires. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...14203126AA0gd7f

1. Buy good book that attacks this subject like Ienatsch`s Sport Bike Riding Techniques ( all areas of riding) or Code`s Twist of whatever ( he deals with cornering only). 2.Forget everything that you have read in this thread or anywhere else on Internet. 3 Practice,preferably track days.

+1 what Stan said.More on idle circut and how it operates and screw opening vs pilot jest size. http://www.factorypro.com/ --> Technical Support--> Motorcycle Tunning Tech --> scroll down to "I" to Idle and cruise,pilot jet size.

+2.

I have stock shock with 132 k miles on it.Does not leak.You can have it for 0.01 $.

Give us more info,,,,,,rpm range,is your bike stock,pipe,air filter,power commander,etc

It basically comes down to this,,,,,,,my pipe is better then your pipe,,,,

If you guys wanna ride 929/954 with welded cases-good luck and have a nice day.Just don`t go paranoid,becouse the swingarm is mounted directly to cases.

You need to remove it only if using DOT 4.DOT 3- it can stay in place. Why ?

As far as ghetto engineering and/or bike maintenance you U.S. born people will never catch up to my level. Having grown up in socialist Poland I have extensive and unsurpassed experience in getting the job done without proper tools and parts.

My "solidly mounted wheel" is a wheel laying on the top of old/new tire. Practice,gentelman,practice.Two short irons,some rim protectors ( ghetto version),WD40 and hammer.That is it. Whipping out old tire ,etc is fasts and easy,removing,balancing,installing wheels back on the bike,that is what eats time.I hate balancing stage of tire changing process. I can do 2 wheels in 1 hour or less.Everything,wheels back on the bike. BTW, in case of XX it is better,if you are doing both wheels at the time,to keep rear wheel off the bike.That way front fender can stay in place,just tilt the bike and slide front wheel out/in.

Let`s face it,as far as road,street bike,I don`t give a crap about tires as long as I get decent mileage out of them.Square,inverted triangle profile,I just don`t care.I did got 7-8 k miles from my from front d220,so it`s all about $$$. I recently decided to finally give big suspension upgrade to my XX.After 10 years and 132 K miles.I spent entire 25 bucks for fresh fork fluid.