tomek

Unless it can be lowered to 0.65-0.7 mm don`t bother.There is no benefit of running 0.9 vs 1.1 mm squish other then higher compression ratio.It is impossible to lower squish to that free hp level on XX engines with OEM pistons without machining upper case/cylinder block.PITA on XX because entire motor has to disassembled in order to do that. From the top of my head OEM squish is about 1.2-1.3mm,stock gasket is 0.65-07mm,even thinner part ( or just use 2 out of 3 layers ) won`t do . But you have Wisecos,so it needs to be measured,I doubt they are identical in this regard to OEM.

My personal policy : - if the tire holds air after treatment with 2.99 $ repair kit from auto parts story a.k.a. shoe string,fuggeitaboutit,and run it as normal or till tire is showing cords.No lower speed limits,etc -if the tire does not hold the air after above mentioned "repair",fuggetaboutit,-new tire. I`ve never installed proper plug in motorcycle tire,my take is if the tire cannot be sealed with shoe string it most likely has enough of structural damage to use it as normal,but of course I would use it in emergency situation.( You stock in the middle of Montana,Nevada,Orygun,etc and nearest dealer is about 347 miles away)

Fronts are 6204-2rs on FI bikes. 6204 describes dimension of the bearing,2rs-sealed on both sides.

So,,,,,,,,, do you have those bearing # for tapered kit ? C`mon people,someone has to have unused AB kit for the steering head ,,,,,,,,,

Yea,I did,but grease can get you only this far ,,,,,,,, I can think of two places in Addison,we used to have account with SKF,,,,,,,

Couple pics of All Ballls front wheel bearings from my XX after about 30k.Never mind there was absolutely nothing wrong with OEMs after 90 K,but I replaced them as a form of preventive maintenance anyway. I consider AB kits absolute junk,disamal quality, bearings themselves and seals don`t really,well, seal.I had couple of seals that actually were spinning with the axle (spacer),not with the hub.Really funny. Moral story? If you need wheel bearings get OEMs ( about 100% more expansive) or order quality brand name bearings from a supplier. Does anyone has uninstalled tapered AB kit for steering stem ? I have to redo those,I need bearing #.I`m going replace AB with parts made out of real steel,not from recycled Spam cans.(a.k.a. All Balls )

There is no risks involved in repacking job.As a matter of fact it is not complicated at all.Drill out the rivets,disassemble,repack ( useful trick,use masking tape to hold fiberglass nice and tight before sliding it into a sleeve),reassemble.I think it takes 5mm or 1/5 inch rivets IIRC. Start the bike,grab the cold one and enjoy nice and civilized again sound. BTW,use latex,etc gloves before handling fiberglass.

180-190 hp is possible from XX in normally aspirated form, if you actually find someone capable of reaching those numbers. Judging by your questions you won`t be able to do it on your own,without necessary knowledge even the best parts are worthless.

+1. Many,many moons ago I tried different preloads on otherwise failed tensioners.The problem,the rattle, always came back.Soon or later. It is just like with suspension,increasing preload won`t cure problems related to the spring being too soft. Now,to give you an evil idea ,cutting or basically making spring shorter will effectively increase its rate. I personally switched to manual tensioner from APE many,many moons ago.Never looked back.I readjust it once every 15-20k miles,that is it.

Yeah, I knew it was something along those lines.. funny thing is when I first rode the XX out here from NY I really didn't "feel" a huge difference. Just goes to show you how rarely one actually uses every bit of HP a bike has. I even got the XX up to 178 indicated on highway 125 up by Walden once, and that's like 8000 ft. Surprised with that much power loss to get moving that fast (and yes, I'm aware that the actual speed was nowhere near the indicated). I did notice the loss in power when I road in Colorado (from NY). I also noticed better gas mileage. Does that make sense? Absolutely.Thinner air----> less aero drag-----> better fuel consumption.I typically get 10-15% better fuel consumption in CO. As far as loss of top speed,it is not as much noticeable as loss of acceleration because thinner air offers less aero drag.But the bike still weights the same. Typically airplanes are faster at higher altitude,up to the point.

3% loss for every 1000 ft of elevation for normally aspirated engines.Now, that is theoretical formula that may,may not be accurate for particular engine,but that is another story.

"Lean angle" ( btw,of what ? bike or bike and rider combo ? ),rather vogue term, it is just one of many variables involved in cornering.Your throttle/brake application,body position,suspension settings,etc.,it all matters. "Lean angle" by itself does not tell how close tires are to limit of the traction.Lesser rider can wipe out on same bike/tires at much lower LA then experten. Personally, I don`t pay attention to lean angle unless the shit starts to dig into an asphalt.You need to go by the feel and try to listen to your tires.

That method did not work,they were almost welded solid.That is way I ask the question in the first place. Anyway,I grabbed large wise grips and managed to spin caps in hubs.After that the rest was a breeze. I`m really glad I`ve checked those bearings.One inner was was totally shot,second almost done,,,,,,,and we are trailering to Montana on Friday,they would`ve never made the trip.

Any good tricks how to remove them ?.They have not been touched in ,eh,,,,,10+ years.I`d like to check bearings before looong drive.

Well, in this case just have him fix what is actually damaged.Nose,left lower and mirror right ? Right side of the nose is good I assume,he can blend it with the left one,done deal.This way the paint on the right side of the cowl will match RT lower.This is how it is normally done.Nobody paints whole car just because the door is damaged. Just to give you idea http://www.jackspaintplace.com/blending.htm I guess he would do it for 300 bucks or maybe even less.

It depends how anal you are about your bike and there is that old cliche " you can only see one side at the time",you won`t be able to compare right side to the left anyway. Honestly,I don`t see a point in painting right lower/tail/fander unless they need fixing anyway. If anything,left side of the tank needs to be blended,because left lower comes close to a tank at one point and color difference might show up right there. Fuggit about doing that yourself unless you plan on more projects like that,absolutely not worth it,almost impossible to get very good results without professional equipment,spray booth ,etc.Especially with gloss black color. You know what,paint the whole bike,I forgot that stock black OEM paint on XX is rather crappy,scratches very easily. I would do tank too in this case.Just make sure your friend uses quality materials,not all paint has been created equal.

In case of cartridge equipped forks just draining and refilling with fresh fluid is simply not enough.They really need to be pulled a part and cleaned very well. Not all suspension fluids are created equal,use high quality race grade 7w like Maxima racing fork fluid .That and stiffer springs will do the trick.

Do compression check.It is quite possible valve(s) got bent during previous,,,,,,,ah,,,,, experiments. No,I refuse to look at your pics of cam sprockets. Honestly,if that is turbo motor cams be dialed in,I don`t think standard timing is what you`d wanna run anyway. APE makes adjustable sprockets,about 60 bucks IIRC,or you can make slots with drumel,but they are had like diamond.

Are sure you are getting correct readings from your Datel ? Honestly,I don`t think you would get spark with less then 10 V. Try multimeter straight to the battery. Does it happen every time you rev it passed 5-6 k rpm ?

O.K.,this thread officially gave me a headache.I`m out.It is probably something really stupid,easy to overlook. There are times when it is actually better to leave it ( the problem ) alone and come back couple days later with fresh brain.

Uh, there is another reason. Unless you have a distributor for the spark, you have to have a cam sensor to decide how to "distribute" the coil primary voltage. . Not really if you have I4 engine with twin coiled waste spark system.Carburated bikes like that don`t need cam sensor. Pics in manual refers to lobes for cylinder 1,"driver" side.4 is "passenger" side. As long as Josh has T mark on ignition pulse generator rotor aligned properly with index mark on the cover cams and the trigger wheel are installed properly.Just look at the last set of pictures he has posted.

Mine too, and it gave me fits for one evening over three years ago, but rotating it solved my problem. Nothing else was changed. Why does the manual specify TCD on the compression stroke rather than simply TDC? Obviously not Josh's problem, but it was mine, and others here. There's a sensor or some such crap somewhere else. I don't understand all the intricacies of the ECM and FI, or I'd try to explain. Somewhere, somehow, that f'n ECM knows which is which rotation and only sprays fuel at the 60 degrees off TDC intake stroke. There is no wasted fuel design... Yea,but that is precisely why cam pulse generator with trigger wheel,etc is there on FI bikes,so ECU can recognize whether cylinder is on compression or exhaust stroke .Whether the crank is on compression or exhaust stroke is determined by the position of camshafts. So, if crank,cams and trigger wheel are in correct position it does not matter how many times you spin crank prior or after,it still be on compression stroke.. BTW ,you can take injector duty cycle to something ridiculous like 85%,heck even 100% but they would burn out quickly.Normally they are about at 60 % at WOT.My point is they start spraying not only when the inlet valve is open,but even before it , for sure not at 60 deg ATDC.You wanna start that rather sooner then later to improve atomization. I`m pretty sure XX has sequential FI system,but there are batch fire race car systems that spray all injectors as one every crankshaft revolution,and the engine still f. runs.My point is with FI,unlike ignition,when you fire injectors is not that crucial,you`d be wasting fuel at light loads,but the motor would still run. It is Otto cycle without direct injection, not Diesel. I might go to he Autobahn,Sunday,right ?

That is why I said they,cams and the trigger wheel are either installed correctly or not. Looking at the latest set of pics, cams seems to be in the right position.

How in the hell if the crank and cams are in correct position "cams are 180 off".My brain hurts trying to understand that. Cam pulse generator is there so ECU knows when to fire injectors,as long as trigger wheel is installed correctly on EX cam sprocket who cares whether you spin crank 360,720,etc. They are either installed correctly or not .Period.

11.9 afr at WOT is waaaaay too rich for normally aspirated high revving modern motorcycle engine,you are just loosing power and wasting fuel at those numbers.Lean that mofo 12-14 % and enjoy extra power. Turbos,different story. You could get better gas mileage by going to 15.5-16.0 at cruise.