tomek

So , what is your mileage so far ?

What ? Air cooled ? That is whole different issue . Sir , the ECU , computer retard ,etc. will not get your performance numbers and reliability to the level of modern 4 valve water cooled mill with nice and tight cylinder head . The design of cylinder head / combustion chambers is compromised ( wide valve angle ) and water cooling does wonders in carrying away heat from hot spots preventing detonation . All things being relatively equal water cooled engine will tolerate CR higher by 2-3 points vs comparable air cooled mill .

13.7 C/R on my R1 track bike , runs like a raped monkey on pump gas . You can only compare fuels and C/Rs for given engine , otherwise it is absolutely , positively , pointless . Some of the main things that effect permissible C/R : bore size , combustion chamber design , squish band , cylinder hear design , camshaft duration ,etc .

I can only guess but 5 bucks says you`ve never heard unmuffled rotary ( Wankel ) .

????? If you're joking, a smiley would help you make that clear to me. FIFY. I though it was pretty obvious to everyone it was a joke .

My exhaust system sounds better then yours . Period . Even if it is D&D . Couple other things , "quality " of sound depends on whether piping is made out of titanium , stainless steel and , excuse my language , mild steel . Typically stainless steel will be thinner and lighter then mild steel . Thicker walls muffle sound better so it is less " musical " . Same for titanium vs ss . Sound also depends on whether carbon fiber , titanium , aluminum or ss is used to make muffler`s sleeve . You get best acoustics with carbon fiber . I`m writing all of that so we compare apples with apples . Yosh`s Zyclone exhaust made out of mild , chromed steel with aluminum can sounds entirely different then stainless steel rs3 with race carbon fiber can . The best sounding exhaust that I`ve heard was Yosh with full titanium headers with carbon can on my old 99 r1 . Carburetored bike with no fuel cut on deceleration like on FI bikes , sounded like it should , full orchestra . FI bikes are too sterile for my tastes as far as the exhaust , backfire switch is no more .

PR2 has different profile . Feel and steering input are similar to PR at moderate lean angles but once you crank up the pace it is easier to tilt bike even more compared to " normal " Pilot Road . It is basically more pointy , PR is kind of round and flat . Mileage , I`d say it lasts 10-15 % longer , I deliberately don`t toss any hard numbers because it all depends . Other then that they all are round and black , and have more then enough grip for street usege .

:icon_rolleyes: I think we told you not to pollute The Garage . You have accept the fact that as far as mechanical engineering goes you are certified idiot and basically should STFU . Just stating the facts. When I lived in Florida, hoses had to be checked carefully every 2 years. Heat just rotted them out like crazy...especially if a vehicle was kept outside. Have you observed that happen on XX ? Not all hoses are created equal .

Maybe a little over the top? Probably , but we have here zero - tolerance policy for serial offenders .

:icon_rolleyes: I think we told you not to pollute The Garage . You have accept the fact that as far as mechanical engineering goes you are certified idiot and basically should STFU .

Not really, no. You'll definitely want to be at the loose end of spec. With the shim installed the swingarm will be at a greater angle, which means the chain will tighten more as it comes in line with the swingarm pivot and front sprocket. Since you're supposed to set the slack with the bike on the side stand, wouldn't the 6 mm shim have a minimal effect in that respect? I could understand if you're checking slack on the centerstand, but that's not how the manual tells you to check it. Google linkage ratio . 6mm added to the shock length does not translate to 6 mm at the rear axle .

XX forks can be made to work very well even with stock compression and rebound valves .They just need to be reshimmed/ revalved . If you wanna go with digestive,traxxion dynamics style valving you gonna need this : http://www.traxxion.com/ValvingUpgradeKit.aspx This kit will allows you to preload shims . It basically makes forks firm during slow speed action ( like dive during braking ) but plush when you hit sharp bumps, etc . http://forks.darladog.com/ If interested just copy his settings , they work very well . FJR has crude, stone age orifice type rebound valves , they need to be replaced , compression valves are incapable of flowing enough oil, so yea , those should be replaces but XX has good quality valves . There is no need to replace them . Here is more info ,my yzf 1000r fork rebuild/revalve . http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index....ic,57796.0.html

003s are good shit . I know of couple pretty fast guys who used those and they liked them. I`ve also witnessed one dude run them to the cords ( steel ) ,guy claimed their performance had not dropped that much . I`ve also used Bridgestones ,slicks of course , they were excellent . Bridgestone makes good track rubber these days .

Yes , on slicks their lap times would immediately drop to 1:25 level . Seriously ,someone who is a solid I rider can easily use slicks . The level grip is not the main issue here ,it is a proper feedback . No grooves on slicks ,you can precisely feel what the tire is doing . On DOT tire those smaller blocks of rubber are constantly flexing due to cornering ,braking ,etc loads and feedback is muted . It is like listening to the music with white noise in the background . I`ve been using slicks pretty much from the get go , even back when I was I rider . The only issue is that without tire warmers unless it is solid 70s and sunny you cannot pull the trigger for the first two laps . Technically they grip well enough after one lap but you need to wait another lap till the tire and the rim is hot or they will cold tear .

Slicks , everything else is unnecessary compromise IMHO , we are talking about strictly track rubber , right ? There are those leftover Michelins , s1200/s1800 , that should work well on 600s in cooler (60s and 70S ) temperatures . The grip from that soft compounded s1200 ( front ) is simply insane . They can be found for 250 $ for 120/180 set . Standard Pilot Powers are rather street tire , they don`t give you good feed back when pushed to the limits of the grip . It is hard to make sense of what that tire is doing in those circumstances . They sort of start to walk without any logic .

"better " spark plug = snake oil . The job of the spark plug is to start combustion , after that it is just chain reaction . BTW ,those look like my RX7 NGK plugs .

That why it is necessary to bump the idle speed to about 1000 rpm minimum . Idling at 600-700 rpm in big no-no. Increasing the load on the engine helps too , as ridiculous as it sounds turning ON the radiator fan actually helps here ( real trucks have this option ) . In couple of years trucks idling for 10 hrs will be thing of the past anyway . More and more trucks have auxiliary cooling / heating systems ,fuel prices being the reason. They are being powered by small generator or in some cases battery pack. Big 14-16 liters diesel burns about 1 gallon of fuel per hour while idling , at current fuel prices it gets expansive .

Well Eric ,you should have been more specific in the O.P. Company vehicle a.k.a. " I don`t pay for fuel " ? The very first think to do when you show up at work is to start the engine up and bump the idle speed to 1000 rpm , only after that you go to the office , dispatch , drink coffee , etc . Who cares if it idles for 5-20 minutes ? Now trucks, real trucks . You are not suppose to start placing any load on the engine till you see oil temp gauge moving. Also idling at 600-700 rpm is big no- no ,something like 900-1000 rpm is more appropriate . Cold or warm . If your truck does not have oil temp gauge and it is not possible to bump idle speed it is not a real truck .

That is why God created synthetic lubricants , it is your friend in low temps. For tranny ( ) I recommend Red Line`s GL4. You are not gonna believe how much better your gearbox will work . Cold and warm. Normally , I don`t bother with engine warm up , I just take it easy on revs and load till I get some readings on coolant gauge. As far as warming up the interior , I now drive Volvo anyway ,the heaters are unreal on those things . It is blowing hot air after mile or two in -20 deg F . No point in wasting fuel by idling. Synthetic 0w/30 or 5w/30 in the winter for my cage.

That's what I thought I said. God forbid some of them are even less informed than even you and believe some of the crap you occasionally rather often spout. FIFY. zero is polluting Garage with technical nonsense . All thing being equal ,maintenance , methods of lubrication ,cleaning , etc. , premium chain will last much longer. I`d say 1.5-2 times longer. In case of DID basic X-ring that fits XX would be 530 VM ,premium - 530 ZVM-X ( I think ZVM2 was replaced by that ). Silverbird1100 , I`m definitely not that anal on chain maintenance but I`ve been repeatedly getting 25-30 k miles from top of the line DID chains.

Dude, you're doing it again. Cut it out. Fine. I'm wrong...again. For whatever they claim to offer, I doubt the cost/benefit ratio is worth it. The baseline X-ring chains last a long time with proper maintenance and are a better investment than those overpriced versions out there. You doubt or you have actually run cheaper vs beefier built chains on XX and can make facts based comparison ??? Because some people here have done just that and top of the line chain like ZVM2 provides best per miles value. Once again you come across as an idiot on technical matters who tries very hard to play an expert.

" I've got maybe 8 days (~1500 miles?) on my current set and they're about half gone. " :icon_shocked: YMMV,I`m lucky to see 3 days from any set of brake pads on the race track,,,,,,,,,,,Road America ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,fresh pads in the morning please. New EBC`s EPFA I think is little more consistent then RJLs,but Versah are still excellent. On the street I`ve been running EBC HH since 4 B.C. , very easy on rotors and wallet , more then adequate for that kind of environment. Good mileage too.

+1 on the tape,makes the reassembly much , much easier . Latex,nitride or rubber gloves for fiberglass handling.

WTF does the weight of the bike have to do with getting an X-ring chain? Sorry, I was thinking horsepower. Heavier bikes tend to have higher horsepower, but I should have used the right terminology. Still FAIL.