Installed tapered steering head bearings.

[Pete in PA]

That's right, NONE!

Unless you call a 10 in. section of pipe (of the same diameter as the inner race) and a 10 in. punch special tools.

Hardest part is the removal of ALL plastic and entire front end.

I won't go into the entire dissasembly, just follow the service manual. If you can't do that don't try this yourself.

You will need a 10 in. long punch to drive out the head races. Just remember the gooseneck IS aluminum. take your time and slowly walk out the top and bottom races tapping around the circumference. Don't beat on one side. We want the race to come out intact, not shatered. It's your installation tool.

to install the new races just use the old races as an interface to hammer them in. Again work slowly and keep it running in true.

You'll know when your in far enough, the race will butt up against the shoulder in the gooseneck and the pitch of the hammer will change.

Now onto the triple tree race. This took more work but I got it off without cutting through it.

Wrap electrical tape arond the stem threads to protect them.

Just use a punch and slowly hammer the dust seal upwards with the race. (this will trash the dust seal, there are 2 new ones with the bearing kit) It's a slow process and requires patience, but it will come off. Again that is your installation tool so don't bugger it up.

Now place the new dust seal on then the inner bearing and race (one piece). Now put the old race on top of this (You must apply the force to the new inner race ONLY not the bearing or you will trash it.) and then slip the pipe over and start hammering. Again, walk it on true, till it bottoms on the dust seal. You'll know it's there when the dust seal isn't loose anymore.

Then reassemble.

I procrastinated, worried, read everything on the internet I could find, and it's no big deal.

I read about putting the bearings in the freezer, heating the gooseneck with a torch, needing a press for the bearings, etc. All unnecessary.

I could see the indents of every seperate ball in the old races. That's why I had a notch in the straight ahead position.

In short it's simple and cheap, just do it.

[Dano]

In short it's simple and cheap, just do it.

Excellent! Ride/feel any different?

Of course you took detailed photos of the process to post at a later time. Did ya use the punch on the stem nut too?

db

[Pete in PA]

As always, no pics, still no digital camera.

I used a punch on the two stem nuts.

It feels WAY different turning bars back and forth. No notch of course but way smoother and tighter.

Test ride will have to wait, it's 25 right now and snow on the way for Saturday. I'm still not back together, wanted to do the write-up while it's still fresh in my head.

[Redbird]

Pete, do you have a part # for the tapered bearings?

I really should have done this while I had the bike torn down, but it's back together now.

[Squareman357]

Pete, do you have a part # for the tapered bearings?

I really should have done this while I had the bike torn down, but it's back together now.

Mini thread jack...with the current weather report, you still thinking about riding to the IMS show in Rosemont?

[Redbird]

Considering it. Probably won't decide for sure until Sunday morning.

Looks like it'll be in the teens, but the cold isn't as much as a deterant as walking around the show either wearing or carrying the gear involved.

[Guest rockmeupto125]

For cryin' out loud....somebody give this guy on old clapped out digital camera.....he's too good to waste!

[Squareman357]

Considering it. Probably won't decide for sure until Sunday morning.

Looks like it'll be in the teens, but the cold isn't as much as a deterant as walking around the show either wearing or carrying the gear involved.

Yeah that was my thought. I'm not so much worried about my helmet, which I can lock to the bike, but moreso my riding pants, gloves, balaclava, fleece neck warmer, etc. Trying to figure out the best way to handle that stuff. Wonder if they have lockers at the show?

[Pete in PA]

Pete, do you have a part # for the tapered bearings?

I really should have done this while I had the bike torn down, but it's back together now.

All Balls steering head kit from Chaparral. $28.99.

[bartonmd]

HAHA, I've done the same thing Pete... Had the parts for a month and a half now! I guess I should get around to doing it in the next couple weeks and probably put up some pictures...

Mike

[Pete in PA]

HAHA, I've done the same thing Pete... Had the parts for a month and a half now! I guess I should get around to doing it in the next couple weeks and probably put up some pictures...

Mike

Go for it! it's really easy!

I can't wait for my first ride when I'll run her up to 60 in 3rd gear then shut her down with my hands off the bars and get................

NOTHING! NO HEADSHAKE!

[Squareman357]

HAHA, I've done the same thing Pete... Had the parts for a month and a half now! I guess I should get around to doing it in the next couple weeks and probably put up some pictures...

Mike

Go for it! it's really easy!

I can't wait for my first ride when I'll run her up to 60 in 3rd gear then shut her down with my hands off the bars and get................

NOTHING! NO HEADSHAKE!

So is that when you know you need new head bearings? When you get headshake when running with no hands?

[Pete in PA]

HAHA, I've done the same thing Pete... Had the parts for a month and a half now! I guess I should get around to doing it in the next couple weeks and probably put up some pictures...

Mike

Go for it! it's really easy!

I can't wait for my first ride when I'll run her up to 60 in 3rd gear then shut her down with my hands off the bars and get................

NOTHING! NO HEADSHAKE!

So is that when you know you need new head bearings? When you get headshake when running with no hands?

No, that's when you prop up your front end and slowly turn the bars back and forth and find a notch in the straight ahead position.

I've had a notch for years, that was slowly getting worse. The design of the tapered bearing over balls is so far superior that all bikes should come with them from the factory.

I'd be willing to bet that I could find a notch in every well used XX out there that still has the factory bearings.

[Guest rockmeupto125]

Nu-uh.

[blackhawkxx]

This shoud be put into a file to save because you know in a couple of weeks or so, someone will be asking about it. I know they can do a search, but it would be nice to have a "Here is how it is done" file.

[Guest rockmeupto125]

Need pics for that kinda stuff. Pete did a good narrative, though. Perhaps we can merge the topics when Mike does his.

[Pete in PA]

Just took a test ride!

Just as I suspected, I can't even make it headshake!

Run her up to 60, take hands off, hit the rear brake, and whack the left handlebar with your fist several times while decelerating through 45 and nothing, rock solid!

Doing that used to guarantee a headshake.

Also corners a lot smother.

U turns are easier with the steering smoother.

I used to lock the throttle lock and go no handed and the bike would hunt left and right needing constant corection. Now it just tracks, and I can go through a corner with just tilting my head.

[cbracerx]

Sorry to revive an old thread.

Is there chance this job can be done by removing the forks and lower panels only? I've got the bike that far now while I upgrade forks..

[airborneXX]

Sorry to revive an old thread.

Is there chance this job can be done by removing the forks and lower panels only? I've got the bike that far now while I upgrade forks..

Yep. Removing the upper and lower fairings just gives you a little more room and you don't have to worry about scratches.

[cbracerx]

Sorry to revive an old thread.

Is there chance this job can be done by removing the forks and lower panels only? I've got the bike that far now while I upgrade forks..

Yep. Removing the upper and lower fairings just gives you a little more room and you don't have to worry about scratches.

Thanks Brett - Chaparrel just got an order . I do have all the lowers off.

[Furbird]

I didn't pull any plastics at all when I did mine. Slightly harder to work on, but I still got it done pretty quickly.

[Warp11XX]

Boo Honda quality... 35,000 and the steering stem bearings are notchy. It's always just one more thing that will keep my bike disassembled for another frickin week... I guess the next thing to break will be the toolkit strap.

How long does Chaparral actually take to ship on average?

Seriously though...the rubber bits on my bike are trash. Even the rubber plug in the top steering stem cap nut is dry rotted. My peg rubbers have been in ragged shape since it was 6 months on the road. Honda also gave me new fork dust seals this week because I bitched enough that they were cracked and dry rotting. And the strangest thing happens about every six to eight thousand miles....my tires cup real bad right before they go slick.

[kiwimack]

Boo Honda quality... 35,000 and the steering stem bearings are notchy. It's always just one more thing that will keep my bike disassembled for another frickin week... I guess the next thing to break will be the toolkit strap.

How long does Chaparral actually take to ship on average?

Seriously though...the rubber bits on my bike are trash. Even the rubber plug in the top steering stem cap nut is dry rotted. My peg rubbers have been in ragged shape since it was 6 months on the road. Honda also gave me new fork dust seals this week because I bitched enough that they were cracked and dry rotting. And the strangest thing happens about every six to eight thousand miles....my tires cup real bad right before they go slick.

same thing happens to your jeans

[Warp11XX]

Purely coincidental.... The jeans suffered catastrophic failure at an XX meat...what would YOU think really caused that?

[kiwimack]

Purely coincidental.... The jeans suffered catastrophic failure at an XX meat...what would YOU think really caused that?

actually, I thought it was "Sphincter Grabbing" due to the silver wing that kept lurking at the rear