Furbird

I run 38 front and rear myself. If it hits anything lower than 32 I can feel sluggishness in the turns and I know it's getting low.

I've had a PCII for quite some time and just never got around to installing it. About a month ago I put it on with the attempt to lean the bike out some, which was a failed attempt, and I took it off yesterday. I noticed though that when it was on there was a horrendous off-idle delay that almost made the bike seem to surge, especially at the beginning of first gear. It was almost like there was a delay between throttle input and actual fuel delivery. With a slight roll on the throttle, it would go from 1200-2500 almost instantaneously, as in it was extremely difficult to get the bike to sit around 1800-2000 which I do at red lights to keep the battery charging and the volts up so the cooling fan (when on) spins a little faster. I also noticed that cold idle dropped down almost 400 RPM's, and it idled higher than normal when it was warm. Since I took the PCII off, both issues have disappeared, so I know it is related to that. Has anybody else noticed their PC's doing this? Could it be an error in whatever map they come with?

Don't forget the heat shrink, or at least electrical tape. Back when I used to do stereo systems in boats, we would solder, heat shrink, electrical tape, and wire tie both ends of the electrical tape to seal it up and keep it from unravelling. Of course, by the same token, I've seen remote start car alarms installed with Scotchlocks (worst possible connection ever invented) that worked for 10 years with no problems. I've also seen stereo equipment installed with just twist-and-tape, and also the great ones where it was twist-and-gorilla-snot, twist-and-RTV-sealant, and my personal favorite, twist-and-bubblegum.

If you read his feedback, you can see that several people have purchased complete kits. They all basically said well worth the money, but not quite factory quality. I went through about 9 pages and didn't see anybody complaining about fit on the full kits. The guy that posted the kit with the flames seems to be a better deal. It's less money, and it also includes the panels around the gauges.

My regulator went out, and because of the ride I was on, I couldn't stop either, and it cooked my stator. I had the EXACT same symptoms as you, except the fan quit working, the headlight went out, and the bike did whatever it could to save power to stay running. Better start saving up.

I was prepared to go $28, which would put it at $40 shipped. Cheapest I found it was $46 plus shipping new from a dealer.

Wow, now I feel bad. That was me that outbid you. If I would have known another board member was bidding, I would not have bid on it at all out of courtesy. If it was something that I was just going to stockpile, I'd sell it to you at whatever it cost me, but unfortunately the one on the bike I'm building up is completely broken with a section missing between bolt holes, so I absolutely have to have it.

University Motors, which is a highly recommended seller here. 1-866-551-6478 I just placed an order with them yesterday, for the right step on my dragbike.

AirborneXX is sending me a pile of gas cap parts he has and I'm going to see if I can piece one together.

Whichever one you choose, I call dibs on the other one. I just recently bought another 99 and the gas cap was destroyed by the previous owner. Shoot me a price with shipping to 36618.

There's a company that has been making these for Camaro/Firebird platform for quite a few years now. The old schoolers claim they must have major lag, but the people that I've heard from that actually have them say that there is a little but it's not drastic like the naysayers would have you believe. The upside is that the distance between the turbo and the intake acts like an intercooler without having to buy one, which reduces costs even more.

PM sent.

I run Continental Contiforce (NOT the Road Attack, or Max, or Race Attack, just regular ole Contiforce) and get good mileage and good grip out of them for the way I ride. I usually get about 10-12k out of a rear with my big 240# ass on the bike.

I was going to buy that, but the freight is RIDICULOUS. I can ship a chrome front bumper for a Titan for less than that, and it weighs probably 4 times as much as that seat and is 6 feet long.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-CBR-c...sspagenameZWDVW

My wheel bearings start making a howling noise, most prevalent in a high speed corner. I'm going to switch to AllBalls in the front and rear this time and see if they last longer. It's only the fronts that I have a problem with, I have never replaced the rear ones at all.

I consider brakes, chains, sprockets, bulbs, filters, and batteries to be regular maintenance. So I'll only mention other stuff. 46K on the bike. Tool strap Front wheel bearings 3 times (soon to be 4) Steering stem bearings CCT Rear brake switch Voltage regulator and stator (stator due to the timing of the regulator failure) Fuel pressure regulator IAT sensor Wiring loom repair Now the wheel bearings and steering stem bearings could technically be called a maintenance item too, but I go through wheel bearings about the same rate I go through front tires. I haven't figured that out yet. And they have failed independently of the tire change (not like the tire shop is doing something wrong). Maybe I'm just too fat. The rear brake switch was a fluke as it went out right at 10k, and the replacement has given me no issues whatsoever in the 36k since then. In all honesty, nearly all of us have had issues with the CCT and Honda should have done something about it. But I guess since it's just noisy and doesn't hurt anything, they leave it alone. The voltage regulator is notoriously bad and will put you down on the road, or cook your stator like it did mine if you don't have the option of stopping. When my fuel pressure regulator failed it completely filled the engine with gasoline, and that is one helluva mess to clean up. I think it should be manually added to everybody's maintenance schedule to replace these items about every 30K to prevent failure. I know when my bike hits between 60-70k I will be putting a fuel pressure regulator on it again and I'll switch to the Yamaha regulator long before that mark.

I don't think there is anything that gives a "stop signal". I think it runs for like 2 seconds or so every time you turn on the key, regardless of current pressure.

A couple of weeks ago when I changed the fuel filter in my bike, I tried to fire it up with the tank sideways on low fuel. Pump made no noise and the FI light stayed on. So what I'm getting to is make sure it has gas in it.

The cheapo ones that the ricers run are not very accurate. If you're going to invest in one to actually use and get usable information from, you need to get a wideband version.

My bulbs did this for quite some time, so I would slap the housing and they would quit. The last time I had the tail section off, I pulled the taillight housing to check the wires. On a hunch, I checked the bulbs first, and it was a break in the filament that was causing the issue. Usually bulb filaments break and fall off, but for some reason these break in one spot and then the ends touch and make it work intermittently. In case you're wondering, on my 99 the bulb part number is a 7443 and is available everywhere.

I say 97 because the center gauge looks like a speedo, it has 97-98 taillight, 97-98 brake rotors, and that color is not original. It's too dark of a red. Probably a repaint to customers choice, which happens to be a non-stock color.

I have a breaker bar that actually has a hole in one end of it. I put a regular allen wrench in it and slipped it through the hole on the breaker bar for leverage. it just about took the bike off the centerstand, so I know what you mean when you say it's tight (you all have fun with that one...)

If you want to get a general idea, try riding around with your center cowl off. Result? The water temp is higher because now that cowl is not forcing air up to the radiator. I put mine back on after one day.

If I remember correctly, I got about 16k out of my factory D205.