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sluggo49 last won the day on December 23 2018

sluggo49 had the most liked content!

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About sluggo49

  • Birthday 06/29/1949

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    old harleys and hondas

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  1. Thanks for the response and the effort. The schematic you reference includes an aftermarket or re-wound stator. It is not the stock wiring diagram, but it is useful for folks who buy aftermarket packages to convert the XRR to a dual sport. The stock stator is good for about 80W out of a single winding, which is what I'm using. The aftermarket stators became popular with HID lighting, but I'm running an LED headlight, 2000 Lu at about 18W. Turn signals and tail/brake light are all LED and almost negligible load. Fan draws load is less than 30 W. I don't much care about the horn load. To answer some of your questions: Yes, the LEDs work on AC, and as you imagine, they flicker , particularly at lower RPM. AT higher RPM they become fairly steady, so they appear brighter. On my XRR, I considered just putting a full-wave bridge rectifier that I have lying around downstream from the AC voltage regulator, but the mounting and wiring looked fairly tacky. So I am using a reg/rec from an XR650L that is a spare. It is also a 3 leg AC unit, but I'll just wire my coil to one of the legs. I think the XRL reg/rec is good for somewhere around 150W, so it shouldn't be a problem. As far as bikes from the '60's are concerned, my first was a 305 Superhawk. It ran lights on regulated AC, but they were incandescent. So while they dimmed substantially at lower rpm, they didn't suffer the diode switching effect that LEDs do. Back to the shared ground plane: I'm thinking that there shouldn't be a problem since the voltage sources are isolated from each other. Nothing on the DC side is gonna suffer from an AC ripple, and I believe the DC side of the rec/reg is a pretty high impedence, so there should be no worries there. On the AC circuit that drives the ignition (CDI and coil), the CDI supply peak voltage is somewhere in the 60 to 100V range, so 12VDC should be invisible. I guess I'm most concerned about the ignition pulse generator which has a peak voltage of less than 1 V and shares the frame ground. But I can't see where that would be a problem, either, since using the frame for a DC ground reference should be electrically transparent. I'm in the process of wiring the bike as I build it. It has a few wiring kludges already built in that I'm disentangling, so it may be a few days before I can try out my solution. Any further thoughts would be appreciated.
  2. I'm adding a battery for the DC circuit. It's there mostly to absorb the ripple. A large capacitor would do about the same thing.
  3. Looks like a great tent. Lots of features and apparently well thought out. At 100" wide in the garage, it should be big enough for anything you'd care to tour on. I like the idea of a large vestibule for hanging out when it's wet. At 14 lbs it's pretty heavy, but that is apparently the price of "features". When my brother and I packed horses through Montana and Wyoming for a summer, we used tarps effectively for dry shelter when required and each had a 2 man dome tent for sleeping. I always figured a similar setup would work for motorcycle touring. But we weren't as weight limited as you would be on a bike since we ponied three pack horses in addition to our riders.
  4. Not XX related. I have a bike (XR650R) that has AC lighting and AC to the CDI box. The alternator has separate coils for the two circuits and neither is grounded at the alternator. Each AC circuit is grounded to the frame, though at separate physical points. I am converting the lighting circuit to DC by running the output of the lighting coil through a regulator/rectifier. I intend to use the frame as the DC ground as well as retaining it for AC ground. Anyone tell me why sharing the frame for the two ground planes wouldn't work? There is plenty of advice about this on other forums, but I haven't seen a good explanation from the doubters as to why it won't work. I understand electricity pretty well, so don't hesitate to get technical. For what it's worth, I'll be running LED lighting, horn and fan on DC.
  5. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    "Levered onto the sprockets"?!!! Who would do such a thing? But I guess it could happen. In any case, I reckon the chain coming apart tore up the guides, plugged the oil pickup and starved the crank for oil. I've been into a few Honda engines but I've never seen a chain break like that or chain guides shredded. Could any of you with more experience comment on that? Maybe a really worn chain run for thousands of miles with a tensioner that gave up long ago?
  6. I ran an Antigravity for a short time a couple of years ago on a 127" Harley 'cause the lead/acid batteries just didn't have the CCA to provide reliable starting even with compression releases on both cylinders. While I had a little tussle with the battery manufacturer over a defective unit, I will say that the battery spun that engine with ease. I learned a couple of things from that experience, though. First, it pays to measure the key-off draw of the bike. The LiFePo4 batteries provide a lot of cranking power, but they can get pulled down over time more quickly than one might think. With the technology where it was a few years ago, that was supposed to be very, very bad. Second, apparently these batteries don't like the float stage that lead/acid batteries get from modern chargers. However, they can be brought to a full charge on a conventional charger (which is, of course, what happens when they are installed on a motorcycle). Just make sure it's disconnected when the battery is fully charged. Third, these batteries don't like cold. It puts them to sleep, I guess. However, as mentioned earlier in the thread, they can be awakened by just turning on the headlight for about 30 seconds. When I first got my AG battery, I was pretty excited about how light it was, compared to the AGM I had been running, so I weighed both of them: about 15 lbs for the AGM and far less than 2 lbs for the AG. However, it turned out that the AG should have weighed a kilo (they left something out when they assembled it, hence the tussle with the manufacturer). In the end, they sent me a new battery on the condition that I return the defective one, but they never gave me a clear answer about the nature of the defect. I've been pretty shy of AntiGravity ever since, but maybe they've gotten better.
  7. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    Unless you dropped something without realizing it, I guess. But I gotta agree that it doesn't seem likely the top end work would do that tot eh chain. As you look at cam sprockets and the sprocket on the crank are there any indications of something getting lodged under the chain? Just speculation, but it seems to me that something had to get caught between a sprocket tooth and the link plate, forcing the plate to flex out of plane. The flex may have just fatigued that plate and the oscillations from high-rev operation finished the job sometime later. Anyone have other thoughts to contribute, preferably about Tomek's chain instead of his mom?
  8. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    With an inadequate flow and pressure, that bearing didn't require a piece of debris on the land to cause it to seize. I guess I'm most amazed by the can chain failure. Had the chain been making any noise? Did you miss a WFO shift?
  9. I got one from ebay. Here's another: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-CBR1100XX-Super-Blackbird-Shop-Service-manual/123539333459?hash=item1cc384a153:g:6aAAAOSwiJZcEAVA:rk:6:pf:0
  10. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    I'll start with a distinct ignorance about the internals of these engines: Shredded the cam chain guide, plugged the oil filter and spun the bearing. What's my prize?
  11. The stator can't cause a spike. The spike is caused by the series r/r when it interrupts the flow of current from the stator. (Same as when the points open.) All the electrons that are in motion in the stator windings while the circuit has continuity don't come to an abrupt halt when the circuit is opened by the r/r. The result can be a very short duration, high amplitude voltage spike. But as was mentioned earlier, the series r/r designers must have taken that into account when they designed the circuit. I'm just gonna hols off long enough to convince myself they did a good job.
  12. I may be dating myself, but you may remember that ignition systems with points had a capacitor (condenser as it was known) to prevent arcing across the points as they opened. The nominal DC voltage across the points was 6 or 12V, depending on the system, hardly enough to initiate the arcs that pitted points. The arcing was caused by the voltage spike that occurred as the points were opened. Maybe someone with an oscilloscope could have a look at a series type r/r on the AC side. But I expect you're right and the folks who designed them included a damping mechanism to diminish the spikes.
  13. With that line of thinking, putting valves into pistons is hardly a catastrophe relative to, say, a nuke going off in Times Square. Let me qualify my use of the word catastrophic: the system suffers enough damage that it completely ceases to function and it's components are in an irrecoverable state of failure. OK? 😎 I'm not sold on series regulators yet. I understand how they work and what they do with regard to switching the stator output. I guess I'd like to see what the stator voltage spikes look like when the regulator turns the stator output off. Not sure how well the insulation on the stator wire will hold up to that. But maybe current designs have some damping components in them to minimize that effect. When I replace my next R/R, it will definitely be MOSFET, though.
  14. I like CA but you guys do pay a huge premium to live there. But there's perks to living there, too. I moved out of Illinois about 15 years ago 'cause it is simply a shitty place to live. You pretty much have to leave the state to enjoy yourself. The one notable exception being the Chicago lakefront in the summertime. In fact, the city of Chicago is a blast in the summer (which is short), and really sucks during the winter (which is long, harsh and cold). North Carolina ain't perfect, but the western part of the state is damn close, particularly if you like to ride motorcycles, shoot guns, make likker, do really stupid stuff, etc. I'm enjoying my retirement. I guess I didn't realize what a super duper filter you use on you WMO and was just assuming something like the automotive applications I'm familiar with. Goo in the tank isn't good but I'm thinking less of a problem with the IDI. I thought your fuel pump was mechanical mounted on the engine rather than in-tank like the PSD. Thinking about it, I guess the goo in your bucket is what settles out of the fuel that sits in there after filtering. I don't know how long it sits, but I do know that particles in suspension will stay in suspension with very little agitation. Relative specific gravities (fluid versus particle) play a big role, but so does particle size. At those sizes, the particles may experience substantial brownian motion which may help to keep them in suspension. But now I'm just doing stream of consciousness speculation. Why don't you take a sample from your tank it run it through the centrifuge? That could potentially answer a few questions: Is there enough goo left in the filtered fuel to worry about what's happening in my tanks? Is it settling out in my tanks or is it being kept in suspension by driving? Is the centrifuge a better way to remove the goo particles from the WMO? And it would give you an excuse to play with your centrifuge. But back to tractor talk... The rust bucket old Ford you're looking at is probably from the '50's. I'm not very knowledgeable about them, but the 8N model was very popular and it was on that or similar model tractors that Ford popularized the 3-point hitch setup that is practically universal today. Ford bought the rights to the 3-pt from it's inventor, I think. Anyhow. those early tractors were fairly lethal in that they were prone to flipping backwards when hitched to a heavy load and driven aggressively. However, they have a serious fan club of restoration folks (one of my neighbors rehabbed one a few years back) and I think parts are generally available. Sometime in the late '60's or early ''70's Ford went to it's "world tractor" concept where it made a single base product that was manufactured around the world and outfitted in local markets with the stuff required to fit their applications.. My '75 is representative of that product line as produced for the US. They were originally made in England and shipped around the world, and I think mine was imported. Anyhow, I use mine to lift tree trunks to facilitate cutting them up with a chainsaw (I get a lot of deadfall), pull fenceposts, lift heavy stuff and run a chipper. I put the ROP (Roll Over Protection device, or roll bar to most of us) on 'cause I live on hilly terrain and the rather frequent tractor accidents I hear about around here keep me pretty paranoid. Also, if you do get a tractor that runs, please never start it from any position other than sitting in the seat. They are real easy to start in gear and can be real hard to stop in gear and a tractor rolling over you is pretty much guaranteed to fuck you up, though I know folks who have lived to tell the tale. All right, enough coffee and wandering narrative! Time to get something done, I reckon.
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