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sluggo49 last won the day on December 23 2018

sluggo49 had the most liked content!

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About sluggo49

  • Birthday 06/29/1949

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    old harleys and hondas

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  1. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    "Levered onto the sprockets"?!!! Who would do such a thing? But I guess it could happen. In any case, I reckon the chain coming apart tore up the guides, plugged the oil pickup and starved the crank for oil. I've been into a few Honda engines but I've never seen a chain break like that or chain guides shredded. Could any of you with more experience comment on that? Maybe a really worn chain run for thousands of miles with a tensioner that gave up long ago?
  2. sluggo49

    LiFepo battery for XX????

    I ran an Antigravity for a short time a couple of years ago on a 127" Harley 'cause the lead/acid batteries just didn't have the CCA to provide reliable starting even with compression releases on both cylinders. While I had a little tussle with the battery manufacturer over a defective unit, I will say that the battery spun that engine with ease. I learned a couple of things from that experience, though. First, it pays to measure the key-off draw of the bike. The LiFePo4 batteries provide a lot of cranking power, but they can get pulled down over time more quickly than one might think. With the technology where it was a few years ago, that was supposed to be very, very bad. Second, apparently these batteries don't like the float stage that lead/acid batteries get from modern chargers. However, they can be brought to a full charge on a conventional charger (which is, of course, what happens when they are installed on a motorcycle). Just make sure it's disconnected when the battery is fully charged. Third, these batteries don't like cold. It puts them to sleep, I guess. However, as mentioned earlier in the thread, they can be awakened by just turning on the headlight for about 30 seconds. When I first got my AG battery, I was pretty excited about how light it was, compared to the AGM I had been running, so I weighed both of them: about 15 lbs for the AGM and far less than 2 lbs for the AG. However, it turned out that the AG should have weighed a kilo (they left something out when they assembled it, hence the tussle with the manufacturer). In the end, they sent me a new battery on the condition that I return the defective one, but they never gave me a clear answer about the nature of the defect. I've been pretty shy of AntiGravity ever since, but maybe they've gotten better.
  3. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    Unless you dropped something without realizing it, I guess. But I gotta agree that it doesn't seem likely the top end work would do that tot eh chain. As you look at cam sprockets and the sprocket on the crank are there any indications of something getting lodged under the chain? Just speculation, but it seems to me that something had to get caught between a sprocket tooth and the link plate, forcing the plate to flex out of plane. The flex may have just fatigued that plate and the oscillations from high-rev operation finished the job sometime later. Anyone have other thoughts to contribute, preferably about Tomek's chain instead of his mom?
  4. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    With an inadequate flow and pressure, that bearing didn't require a piece of debris on the land to cause it to seize. I guess I'm most amazed by the can chain failure. Had the chain been making any noise? Did you miss a WFO shift?
  5. I got one from ebay. Here's another: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-CBR1100XX-Super-Blackbird-Shop-Service-manual/123539333459?hash=item1cc384a153:g:6aAAAOSwiJZcEAVA:rk:6:pf:0
  6. sluggo49

    Chain reaction

    I'll start with a distinct ignorance about the internals of these engines: Shredded the cam chain guide, plugged the oil filter and spun the bearing. What's my prize?
  7. sluggo49

    Headlight upgrade

    The stator can't cause a spike. The spike is caused by the series r/r when it interrupts the flow of current from the stator. (Same as when the points open.) All the electrons that are in motion in the stator windings while the circuit has continuity don't come to an abrupt halt when the circuit is opened by the r/r. The result can be a very short duration, high amplitude voltage spike. But as was mentioned earlier, the series r/r designers must have taken that into account when they designed the circuit. I'm just gonna hols off long enough to convince myself they did a good job.
  8. sluggo49

    Motivation frame slider install

    I didn't know you guys lived together. How sweet is that?
  9. sluggo49

    Headlight upgrade

    I may be dating myself, but you may remember that ignition systems with points had a capacitor (condenser as it was known) to prevent arcing across the points as they opened. The nominal DC voltage across the points was 6 or 12V, depending on the system, hardly enough to initiate the arcs that pitted points. The arcing was caused by the voltage spike that occurred as the points were opened. Maybe someone with an oscilloscope could have a look at a series type r/r on the AC side. But I expect you're right and the folks who designed them included a damping mechanism to diminish the spikes.
  10. sluggo49

    Headlight upgrade

    With that line of thinking, putting valves into pistons is hardly a catastrophe relative to, say, a nuke going off in Times Square. Let me qualify my use of the word catastrophic: the system suffers enough damage that it completely ceases to function and it's components are in an irrecoverable state of failure. OK? 😎 I'm not sold on series regulators yet. I understand how they work and what they do with regard to switching the stator output. I guess I'd like to see what the stator voltage spikes look like when the regulator turns the stator output off. Not sure how well the insulation on the stator wire will hold up to that. But maybe current designs have some damping components in them to minimize that effect. When I replace my next R/R, it will definitely be MOSFET, though.
  11. sluggo49

    Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.

    I like CA but you guys do pay a huge premium to live there. But there's perks to living there, too. I moved out of Illinois about 15 years ago 'cause it is simply a shitty place to live. You pretty much have to leave the state to enjoy yourself. The one notable exception being the Chicago lakefront in the summertime. In fact, the city of Chicago is a blast in the summer (which is short), and really sucks during the winter (which is long, harsh and cold). North Carolina ain't perfect, but the western part of the state is damn close, particularly if you like to ride motorcycles, shoot guns, make likker, do really stupid stuff, etc. I'm enjoying my retirement. I guess I didn't realize what a super duper filter you use on you WMO and was just assuming something like the automotive applications I'm familiar with. Goo in the tank isn't good but I'm thinking less of a problem with the IDI. I thought your fuel pump was mechanical mounted on the engine rather than in-tank like the PSD. Thinking about it, I guess the goo in your bucket is what settles out of the fuel that sits in there after filtering. I don't know how long it sits, but I do know that particles in suspension will stay in suspension with very little agitation. Relative specific gravities (fluid versus particle) play a big role, but so does particle size. At those sizes, the particles may experience substantial brownian motion which may help to keep them in suspension. But now I'm just doing stream of consciousness speculation. Why don't you take a sample from your tank it run it through the centrifuge? That could potentially answer a few questions: Is there enough goo left in the filtered fuel to worry about what's happening in my tanks? Is it settling out in my tanks or is it being kept in suspension by driving? Is the centrifuge a better way to remove the goo particles from the WMO? And it would give you an excuse to play with your centrifuge. But back to tractor talk... The rust bucket old Ford you're looking at is probably from the '50's. I'm not very knowledgeable about them, but the 8N model was very popular and it was on that or similar model tractors that Ford popularized the 3-point hitch setup that is practically universal today. Ford bought the rights to the 3-pt from it's inventor, I think. Anyhow. those early tractors were fairly lethal in that they were prone to flipping backwards when hitched to a heavy load and driven aggressively. However, they have a serious fan club of restoration folks (one of my neighbors rehabbed one a few years back) and I think parts are generally available. Sometime in the late '60's or early ''70's Ford went to it's "world tractor" concept where it made a single base product that was manufactured around the world and outfitted in local markets with the stuff required to fit their applications.. My '75 is representative of that product line as produced for the US. They were originally made in England and shipped around the world, and I think mine was imported. Anyhow, I use mine to lift tree trunks to facilitate cutting them up with a chainsaw (I get a lot of deadfall), pull fenceposts, lift heavy stuff and run a chipper. I put the ROP (Roll Over Protection device, or roll bar to most of us) on 'cause I live on hilly terrain and the rather frequent tractor accidents I hear about around here keep me pretty paranoid. Also, if you do get a tractor that runs, please never start it from any position other than sitting in the seat. They are real easy to start in gear and can be real hard to stop in gear and a tractor rolling over you is pretty much guaranteed to fuck you up, though I know folks who have lived to tell the tale. All right, enough coffee and wandering narrative! Time to get something done, I reckon.
  12. sluggo49

    Motivation frame slider install

    Well, I think I located a complete set of John's super sexy aluminum frame plugs for sale. Only $3800.00 https://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcy/d/honda-cbr-xx-1100-blackbird/6746564675.html But they come packaged with a '98 BB.
  13. sluggo49

    Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.

    Thanks for the nice comments about my tractor. I never knew how much I wanted one 'till I got it. I think I remember folks posting about running unprocessed SVO in their IDI's. Said the exhaust smelled like popcorn. It might be worth running it in town in a small town like mine just for the effect. And I reckon the tractor would probably do fine on it, too, as long as most of the french fries and pork cracklin's have been removed. But I think you're right that it has to be warm enough to work well. When fuel prices go up next year, I might be real tempted to try. As far as all the dire warnings you get about running WMO, I suspect it's mostly from folks who have never tried it. Somehow human nature seems to include a tendency to forecast dire results from trying stuff that's a bit out of the box. Not sure why, but I guess some folks get a kick out of sayin' "I told you so!" when shit hits the fan, whether or not there is a causal relationship. I'm not sure your 1 micron filter is really overkill, 'cause filters are rated based on percentages of particles of a given size that get through, I think. Even a 1 micron filter will let some fraction of larger particles through which explains why a lot of systems run tandem filters. First one gets out, say, 98% of the crud and the second one gets out 98% of what the first filter didn't. But the fact that you're not finding any pebbles in the sludge at the bottom of your container is comforting. I suspect the IDI would burn anti-seize if you could force it through the injectors. I forget the rating on the HEUI fuel filters, but it might be as high as 10 micron. I'm just too lazy to look it up. And I'll bet that if you treated all you WMO with the centrifuge, you could practically get away without filtering it at all.But that assumes that the density of the objects you want to remove is greater than the density of the stuff you want to keep. Speaking of what foreign material might be in used motor oil, have you ever had an oil analysis done bu someone like Blackstone? I should probably start doing that with my trucks, but I'm afraid it will just give me something else to worry about. I sort of figure that if you keep clean oil in them and keep the fuel, oil and coolant in their own respective habitats, the thing is gonna run until something catastrophic happens. I'm not sure it would change my behavior much to know that my zinc levels were elevated, but I'm sure there would be a corresponding increase in my blood pressure!
  14. sluggo49

    Headlight upgrade

    I forgot about that one! However, I have 2 cb1000's ('94 and '95) 2 xr650l's, an xr650r and an 81 cb750K. (My old shovelheads don't have cam chains) I visit forums for all of them and it seems like they all bitch about cam chains and tensioners. I have yet to read about a catastrophic cam chain failure due to the cct. Maybe I'm looking in all the wrong places? On the other hand, I hear about catastrophic failures of the charging systems pretty frequently. And no wonder when the harness ground to the frame is a brass disc bolted to an aluminum frame with a steel bolt! And there's a current running through it... Reminds me of folks who would ground their boat's electrical system through a metal thruhull fitting and wonder why their boat sank. It doesn't take a very bad ground connection to cause the R/R to boil a battery.
  15. sluggo49

    Headlight upgrade

    Or get an R/R that is capable of handling the power the stator puts out. It is seriously annoying to me that a product as well-designed and manufactured as the BB has such a crappy charging system.