joblock

Those are some fairly big negative numbers. If I were you I would try a zero map. You're not going to hurt anything except possibly your fuel mileage.

That map is not drastically different from what I'm using in the upper ranges but I'm using a 43-pound regulator. you might want to try just loading a zero map and see how it runs. I don't think you can hurt anything. Be sure and backup your present map preferably in two different places. The voice of sad experience.

Take a look at your PC map. If you have large positive numbers above 5 or 6,000 RPM and above 80% throttle I would just about guarantee or running too rich at high speeds especially with the 50 lb regulator.

I just noticed the title to your thread. With a k&n and full exhaust system I don't think you'll be dangerously lean anywhere. Some people complain of low speed drivability problems with your combination.

I have had a wideband O2 sensor on 2 99 black birds. One completely stock and 1 highly modified with aftermarket exhaust. They both ran generally rich especially in the upper mid range. I have very few positive numbers on the dynojet map. Some people say a k&n filter and aftermarket exhaust can cause problems without a power Commander. If you just have slip-on or stock exhaust and a stock air filter I'm pretty sure you'll be fine. If you should decide to sell your PC 3 I would be very interested.

Damn that gravity anyway. 0 mile per hour operator error on the kickstand. when I brought the bike home I took all the plastics off, laid out my spare set of plastics, picked out all the best pieces and set them up on the shelf. I've been riding in it's work clothes so to speak. The nose piece with the next decal and the new right hand lower is still safely on the shelf along with a pretty nice left hand lower and tail section. Considering that nice stock plastic is as common as an honest politician I decided to buy some cheap aftermarket fairings for every day use.

Does anyone have any recent experience with aftermarket fairings? Any that are particularly good or any to avoid. Thanks for your help.

Absolutely correct. Unfortunately the SV shock uses a ramp type adjuster, no way to completely unload the spring. I found it quite exciting.

I have done it on sv650 GSXR and KLR. All much lighter springs than what is on the Blackbird. I really can't recommend it for anyone who isn't at least a little bit suicidal. It will give you a small taste of what EOD must be like. Like welding on gas tanks it's probably something best left to someone with proper tools and experience. If you're determined to do it yourself PM. me for the details.

The test fixture was enclosed in a scatter shield.

Back when dirt was new and I didn't know any better I used to mess around with Harley Davidsons. Changing the stator on a shovelhead Harley was a major undertaking and it wasn't unheard of to buy a new defective stator. I built a test fixture using a 1/2 horsepower 3600 RPM 110 volt induction motor. I was surprised to find there was a small but measurable load and a slight increase in temperature of the stator even though the stator wasn't connected to anything. That's when I learned about magnetic hysteresis. With a regulator connected to the stator but no load on the regulator there is a very significant load and a lot of heat in the regulator and the stator. The bottom line is this a 1/2 horse induction motor had no trouble speeding the rotor up to 3600 RPM no matter what the load on the charging system. Horsepower loss in the charging system is pretty much a non-issue.heat on the other hand is probably a matter of concern judging from all the fried stators I've seen.

Could you elaborate please? every time I think I have a grasp of how motorcycle charging systems work I learn something that makes me doubt what I thought I knew.it seems to me a series regulator should also reduce the operating temperature of the stator assuming you're not drawing full capacity of the system.I suppose it's possible that the voltage of an unloaded stator might rise high enough to endanger the insulation of the stator coils but that doesn't seem likely assuming the insulation is healthy.

Opinions please. Is it possible to hurt a blackbird engine by running it too lean at 2% to 10% throttle opening? By too lean I mean mid-to-high 15s.

A much better solution. It will take a little bit of muscle but at least you're not likely to go too far. No guarantees at Bubba's Muffler and bait shop.

Most any muffler shop will have a pipe expander. you should be able to expand the end of the mid pipe to fit the muffler. I would be very careful about what muffler shop you choose. it's a lot more difficult to make the pipe smaller.

Just a suggestion. you can clean and Lube the turn signal switch by just taking the switch housing off of handlebar and possibly a shot of contact cleaner will fix your high low switch. all in all a lot less effort than removing the windshield and fishing wiring through tight places.

Don't forget the Dielectric grease when you reassemble it.

on the cream-colored connector you depress the metal Tang on the Spade terminal. on the white colored connector you remove the u-shaped lock piece and then release the plastic catch at the side of the terminal. H

I would guess that your regulator / rectifier is probably bad. But if a new one exhibits the same behavior( falling voltage with an increase in RPM) I would investigate direct connecting the regulator to the battery. Falling voltage is a common problem on the Suzuki SV. It's usually caused by inadequate size factory wiring plus a bunch of unnecessary connectors. The Cure is to connect regulator directly to the battery with at least 12 gauge wire. I've done this on several SV's and it's always been successful.

I would also suggest installing a voltmeter. It's a good window to your electrical system.

Honda shows the 97 stator as no longer available. I have found a lot of negative reviews on nearly all the aftermarket Stators. The fuel injected stator is apparently still available from Honda. I've read that it is higher capacity but that's not necessarily a good thing if you don't need the extra capacity. As I understand the system it will just put extra strain on the regulator rectifier. If money is No Object a new fi stator from Honda and a series regulator from roadstercycle would be the ultimate.

A quick and dirty stator tester. Three identical 100 watt light bulbs should light equally to about half Brilliance at about 3 or 4000 RPM. The service manual gives the proper testing procedure using a multimeter. According to Jack at roadstercycle you should see about 16 volts ac per thousand RPM across any 2 of the 3 yellow wires

Also you may find the the length of the bearing assembly is greater for a tapered roller bearing then the ball bearing it replaced. This can force the lower seal to be out of the housing bore allowing dirt and water into the lower bearing.

Not sure if I would want a lighter axle. The Stock Axl was definitely bent. Granted that was with a slick and a wheelie bar. but I think I would stay with stock for the safety Factor.

Adjuster extender. If you have access to a lathe it's a pretty simple project. Actually it can be done with a drill motor a file and a hacksaw. Dimension A is a slip fit on the cable sheath Ferrule. Dimension B is a slip fit in the adjuster. Dimension C has a generous clearance on the cable itself.