rockmeupto125

Although those are appropriate, i think those are X-ring chains.

The reason I said radar detector was not just for keeping your money in your pocket, but because two of the more better ones have built in voltage meters. A cheap, small voltmeter is a handy tool as well...if not that, then a probe with a bulb in the handle that you can prove current with. Remember that your bike is a source of extra bolts...just shift them around for temporary. Zipties are a good thing, as well as a pointed knife or even a sharper screwdriver...you can heat it with a lighter to make a hole in plastic so that you can get a ziptie through it. If you're in that situation, don't try to punch through the plastic...usually it just cracks and makes a bad thing worse.

Radar detector, cell phone, credit card and you're covered.

HID needs good voltage to charge and arc. If there is poor voltage, they will flicker multiple times as they try to arc, or not start at all. Causes could be deficient wiring/connections, or a decaying battery/charging system. With the bike running, just taking it off idle should supply enough voltage unless there are other prominent draws on the system. Start checking your running voltage, and do a load test on the battery. Find and fix your problem before it becomes a real inconvenience.

Agree completely with Adam.

If you get in there with a dental pick, its pretty easy to get the leads out of the connectors and swap them.

They WILL fit. There is a difference in the plug on the new and old stators, so you'll have to switch that. And I believe the plug is different on the reg as well, but its not a big deal.

when I am sending a PM, there's 4 boxes. 1. Recipient's name 2. a block to put carbon copy recipients 3. Message header 4. Message text. Can't answer your question other than that.

I've never switched the gauge pack between a carbed and a fuelie bike. On the carbed, a warning light indicates the sidestand is down. On the fuelie, it gives a warning for an FI fault. The cover plate is different between the years to reflect this. But......is the circuitry and hookup the same? I always presumed it was, but have never verified that. Has anyone here done so?

I had the same situation. I ended up very cautiously drilling the bolt through until I ended up with just a thin shell, and was able to then collapse it and remove it with minimal damage to the threads in the swingarm. I ran a die through and got minimal flash, so I figured the threads were largely intact. I'd certainly suggest some penetrant and a bit of heat, although that did not help me. Worst case, I should think that a helicoil would work well, and probably have less propensity to seize up again. I now make sure there's anti-seize on those bolts.

You're here for help, which is a good thing, because we like to help. But from your description of things wrong and things you've done, it seems there's a lot missing from this picture. Flat out on the highway is neither a repair nor a diagnostic procedure, and while the XX is a strong bike, if there's something wrong, it rarely fixes it by itself. Your mention of the valve adjustment is the clincher to some degree. If you're experienced mechanically, then start with the basics and work forward from there, as is appropriate. If you're not experienced mechanically, then take the time to learn if that's your desire, or get the bike someplace where they will address the issue rather than taking potshots at the problem. No flame intended. We'd like to help you, and it seems as though you've done some things with it, but either your approach or your relation of the story is a bit haphazard.

It seems odd to do that much damage so quickly. For the cost, I'd start searching for an engine to drop in, rather than repairing the old one.

Its standard thread. Counterclockwise to loosen. Either: A: use an impact wrench B: put a breaker bar on it, take up the slack, and wack the bar with a good sized hammer C: place a piece of 2x4 wrapped in a towel across the swingarm and let the spoke of the wheel rest on it. If you've already removed the chain, simply put it back on and tie the bottom run together with a wire. It won't slip if you snug the chain up to even moderately tight. You're not making much torque.

Yep.

So its something that happened previously, and you just noticed it now that you are working in the area. Gotcha. Backing plate for the brake friction material is mild steel. Brake dust will cover any marks fairly quickly. Other than that, I gots no ideers.

Quick estimate is 1/4 inch. My guess is that your inner brake pad has jumped out of its front mount, and has dropped to contact the hub.

Is it rubbing now, or can you just see a rub mark? Did YOU put the rims on, or did the shop? A cyclical rub would indicate that you have a wheel out of round, added to any other problems you might have at the moment with the brake caliper.

Charge the battery. Sounds as though your alternator/regulator charges at a max of 14.1 volts, and that's what its doing to an undercharged battery. And if that ain't it, you'll have a charged battery, which you need to do proper diagnostics.

I don't have any new ones, Mike, or it would have been out the door by now. Sorry.

This for a 1973 GS5-A. I'd imagine its the same. Transmission Oil SE Class SAE 10W30 or 10W40 Capacity 0.6 liter Level Motorcycle vertical, wait 5 min, between lines on dipstick, screwed in all the way

You might share the application for that fuel filter...for those of us that are uber cheapo.

Disconnect the alternator. There's a chance you overcharged and ruined your battery or regulator.....then the current dropped, and you got the bouncy needle -> dead in the water syndrome.

Yes, it is.

Gotcha. Now I understand. Thank you.

So you are saying the reactive damper has enough travel to work with the XX? That makes no sense.