rockmeupto125

Jeepers, man. Nothing like a suicidal bike. Hope you're okay. Now sue the dipshit, or take it out in trade.

I could actually use a set of grips, so I'll speak for them. If that's Au instead of Pb, I'll take that shiny thing as well...lol.

Agreed. With the bike off, its no different than using a portable powerpack, except the XX's battery is bigger.

Not that minimize the efforts that Eric and Stan both put forth for our members, but I'd just like to take the opportunity to say that Bob does a real fine job for us, both in the quality of work and pricing. He is also willing to do estimates from pictures for us, which is a real plus. Just email a couple decent pics to the sales address on his website with a brief explanation of what you want. Be sure to mention we sentcha.

Philip...anywhere behind plastic bodywork is okay. I've seen them in saddlebags. Most folks seem to mount them below the headlight. You might consider the solution of an easily removable tank bag that you can stick in a backpack or carry inside with you with the radar detector somewhat "hardmounted" inside the bag. But keep in mind that if you rely at all on LIDAR detection, placing the detector anyplace that you can't see out of will disable that capability. LIDAR is not radio signal, its a light, and will go through a windscreen, but not bodywork.

I just hide mine in the 2nd drawer under my skivies.

Is that a chemical etching, or sandblasting? This is a perfect piece for someone who wants to paint the screen to match the bodywork. After all..who looks through it, anyway?

I was rummaging through the garage today looking for lost things and happened across this pair of Genmar Bar Risers for the CBR1100XX. They are used, have areas of very light oxidation and small surface scratches consistant with normal use. All but a very few of the blemishes should disappear after a few minutes with a polishing cloth. Complete with the allen head bolt. $50 plus $5 shipping in North America. Shipping by actual cost of postage to other locations.

Its stupid easy to change the bulbs once you know what to do, but its damned difficult trying to figure it out with two fingers stuck up inside a dark place. Find a way to get to the back of the headlight. Remove the inner trim panels, get on your knees and reach up inside the cowl from underneath, do something, but it can be done without removing anything if you're determined enough. Be damned sure while you have your hand in there that someone (and that included yourself) doesn't move the bars in an attempt to see or feel better and crush one of your fingers in the bargain. Its too easy to dissassociate your actions when you are concentrating on what you can do with your hand while you can't see it. Here's what you're gonna do back there. Keep in mind that the low beam is the top bulb, not the lower bulb depicted here. After you pull off the connector and peel back the rubber boot, this is what you'll find underneath. A spring clip and the bulb base. The spring clip pivots from the right, and locks on the left. To undo the lock, push in on the lower bar of the clip at the left hand side..... and pull down on it. Once free of the lock, swivel it all the way to the right on the pivot, remove the bulb, and reverse the procedure. Make sure your bulb is correctly seated and the spring lock will clip into place easily...there's not a lot of tension on it. The clip will not come off regardless of where you swivel it as it is screwed into its pivot point...no worries about holding onto it or losing it.

A lot can be done by a good welder. I suspect the repair that you need may only cost a few hundred dollars. Have someone look at it before you make the decision. As far as a built engine, Elton Fish is one of the "go-to" guys. www.efrracing.com Its your bike, and its your choice how you treat it. But that's an incredible amount of abuse to require 5 chain/sprocket sets over 40k miles if they are on the street. Adjusting and oiling moving parts is useful in promoting long life and preventing component failures that can be painful, expensive, or both.

This is not a balancer shaft at the back of the idle gear. Its an idle gear shaft for the rear balancer. Meaning that its not a balancer shaft. Is that mud clearer?

Half bra or full?

I was out to the rummage sales the past couple weeks, and completely blew the budget. One thing I didn't buy was a Farmhand fluxcore only MIG welder. This is the cheapest MIG welder sold by tractorsupply.com with no capability of using a shielding gas bottle, only fluxcore. It was in the box, and looked pretty much brand new. He said he used it 3 or 4 times. Shipping would probably be a bit expensive, but if anyone relatively nearby who might be travelling through wanted it, I'd be glad to pick it up and hold it for them. $75 was the price. I tried to justify it but after buying both a stick welder and a set of tanks and torches off the guy, I was pretty much skint, and I already have a MIG. Lemme know.

Glad to hear, and thanks for closing the door on this story.

What, its always daylight offroad? Every real motorcycle has lightsnstuff....

$4010 and a 2002 neXXt sticker? Not the one peeled off your front fender I can do that.........with a pair of unused stickers.

How about $4000 and NeXXT 2007 sticker?

Justin, do you still have the headlight, taillight, and turnsignals for this bike? Thanks.

What year?

I apologize for offering a biased opinion differing from your experience. I'll remove my post to prevent any disservice to our forum members if you remove the guoted text from yours. My purpose in the garage is to help...not hinder.

HEY!

just went looking for mirrors, cheapest I found is university motors $114 a side complete unit ron ayers $131 honda direct $135 www.umotorsfargo.com call them up mention your a fucktard from this board. get a discount.......... Questionable whether he can get them in blue from a US dealer....who has to buy from Honda US.

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts. Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

What do you need when you say mirrors? The mirror assembly consists of many different parts and can be disassembled. Do you need the mirror, the blue plastic cover, the stay (the part with the hinge in it), or were yours completely destroyed?

What's wrong with yours? Looks pretty solid to me....