rockmeupto125

Half bra or full?

I was out to the rummage sales the past couple weeks, and completely blew the budget. One thing I didn't buy was a Farmhand fluxcore only MIG welder. This is the cheapest MIG welder sold by tractorsupply.com with no capability of using a shielding gas bottle, only fluxcore. It was in the box, and looked pretty much brand new. He said he used it 3 or 4 times. Shipping would probably be a bit expensive, but if anyone relatively nearby who might be travelling through wanted it, I'd be glad to pick it up and hold it for them. $75 was the price. I tried to justify it but after buying both a stick welder and a set of tanks and torches off the guy, I was pretty much skint, and I already have a MIG. Lemme know.

Glad to hear, and thanks for closing the door on this story.

What, its always daylight offroad? Every real motorcycle has lightsnstuff....

$4010 and a 2002 neXXt sticker? Not the one peeled off your front fender I can do that.........with a pair of unused stickers.

How about $4000 and NeXXT 2007 sticker?

Justin, do you still have the headlight, taillight, and turnsignals for this bike? Thanks.

What year?

I apologize for offering a biased opinion differing from your experience. I'll remove my post to prevent any disservice to our forum members if you remove the guoted text from yours. My purpose in the garage is to help...not hinder.

HEY!

just went looking for mirrors, cheapest I found is university motors $114 a side complete unit ron ayers $131 honda direct $135 www.umotorsfargo.com call them up mention your a fucktard from this board. get a discount.......... Questionable whether he can get them in blue from a US dealer....who has to buy from Honda US.

You can do this by putting the bike on the centerstand, supporting the front, slide the axle partway out, and removing the allen head bolt in the bottom of the right fork tube. The spring and damping unit can then be extracted from the top of the fork tube and drained. The few cc's of oil remaining on the portion of the fork slider that is lower than the bolt hole can removed if you so wish by securing an absorbent cloth on a stick. Reassembly is straightforward. You can then support the wheel, pull the axle out and reinsert it in opposite direction, and repeat the procedure for the left fork tube, and reinserting the axle in the proper direction as you complete reassembly. You must remove the axle, loosen the 4 pinch bolts, and remove the fork caps and damper bolts. Those that are purists here will decry the blasphemy of this procedure, but I have yet to understand the functional difference. However, this is not the method advised by the service manual, and frankly, its not that horrible a job to pull the fender, calipers, brake lines, wheel, and clipons, then loosen the upper and lower triple clamp bolts, and drop the fork tubes out to do the service. Clamp the tubes in a vice to remove the cap bolt and damper bolt. Be careful not to damage the fork tube finish or scratch the slider while using the vice. Reassembly is again straightforward, as its always easy to return the front end to the precise alignment that it was in, and torquing the triple clamp bolts without damaging the bodywork is really a piece of cake. Don't forget to hang the clipons and brake calipers while you are doing this so there's no stress on the wires and lines, and be sure that the front brake lever is not depressed, or you'll be bleeding the brakes, and I'll let someone else review that procedure with you.

What do you need when you say mirrors? The mirror assembly consists of many different parts and can be disassembled. Do you need the mirror, the blue plastic cover, the stay (the part with the hinge in it), or were yours completely destroyed?

What's wrong with yours? Looks pretty solid to me....

I don't think that's the term you are looking for. Its "backcutting" or something like that. Basically you are cutting back the engagement dogs at an angle so they can't slip out.

I have a handheld rotory tool (think Dremel) branded Master Mechanic....I believe its the True Value Hardware house brand. I've destroyed the coupling between the drive motor and the head, and have had no luck searching for a replacement. So my question is, does anyone have a link to a parts house that might specialize in something like this? Its a rubber tube with teeth on the inside. They are not splines, like your gearshift lever, because that's too fine for rubber to grip, but more like gear teeth, with flat block ends, such as a cam belt, or a Harley final drive. I'm sure this tool is built by Dremel, or Black and Decker as Master Mechanic is only a brand name, not a manufactur, but so far I've had no luck. Any thoughts?

I look at everything and examine each minute detail. Whether I comprehend it, pay attention, or even (doubtfully) remember it...well, that's another issue entirely. What were we talking about, anyway?

In many languages, technical terms don't always translate well. And a fender can be a body covering, if you consider a tire cover to be a mudguard. His sig says that its an injected model. I admit the ad leaves a lot of information out, but the guy's just looking for some help.

So not firing on 1 and 3? What the hell? The coils are 1,4 and 2, 3. What sense does that make?

1. Check the battery voltage. 2. Start it up and check each header pipe to see if they are all hot. 3. Buy SeaFoam and run some of that through. After that, more diagnostics will be necessary.

After riding an RZ, you think you can smell fuel on the XX?

This will be interesting.

I've never identified a history or pattern of leaks in all the years I've been watching the XX forums. Obviously, the best places to look will be where there are connections. Perhaps some was spilled on a tank bag, or clothing? Try your regular gasoline...some have different odors that you may have fueled with on your trip. Sorry...not much help.

There's three calipers. Which one are you refering to?

Master links are very often specific to the make and model of chain. There is no "universal" 520 or 530 o-ring or x-ring master link. That's one reason why random posts for master links aren't very useful. You'll need to know the make and model of your chain to ensure you get the correct one...or measure the old one. Even the original equipment DID chain on the XX does not use the same master link as the aftermarket DID ZVM...they have different pin diameters.