rockmeupto125

I can't say I've had a similar experience. But I do think you should not worry about it and keep riding.

MAPP would be fine for that application.

Thanks, Porter. I don't think I can rub my hands together that fast!

No, it didn't make reserve---someone made him and offer and they took it, ending the auction. It was worth the BIN if you really wanted the bags. Low miles, VERY good condition marred by a one-panel repaint and some touchup = $4300-$5000 Beetle bags = $500-$800 used, good luck finding them in the right color No wonder it went quickly. Yes, you'll find better deals, but this was a straight and fair one from what I can see.

If nobody has any on the shelf, maybe we split a pack. We'll see.

Does anyone have any of the HTS-2000 rods? I have a small repair to do and don't feel like dropping $65 to order from the company, or pay the $2.50 each plus $5 shipping from the eBay vendors. Anybody?

Mag, its nice that you found a motivated seller of a bike that was equipped in the fashion you wanted. But while its not exactly apples and oranges, the comparisons are not that cut and dried. Someone other than yourself may prefer the setup of the bike that Brian has offered. Additionally, the market tends to vary across our very large country, and it seems that bikes generally command a greater value in California where they can be used year round, as opposed to say, Ohio, Pennsylvania, or New Jersey, where sales can be lackluster any time of year except the spring. So while that opinion may have some merit, I think there are a lot of variables involved.

Good catch, GS. Thanks for noting what I missed....sorry about that, folks. The Q/A section wasn't there when I viewed the auction, but I should have caught that in the pics. They were taking forever to load on dialup and I was impatient.

1. It will probably be stuck pretty tight, requiring something involving leverage rather than direct pressure. Unless you have the right tools to do it, plan on your rims getting scratched by whatever proprietary setup you devise to do it. Breaking the bead itself is not rocket science...its just figuring out how to apply the direct pressure. However, the right tools don't need to be sophisticated or complicated. Check these links.....the right tools can be pretty cheap. WebBikeWorld Internet BMW Riders And for nice quick tutorial....basic, yet complete. Changing sportbike tire 2. Yes, motorycle tires need balanced, but often, the tire is uniform enough that its not really necessary. Start doing the speeds XX is capable of and you'll probably wish you had done it. Generally I find that unbalanced wheels are quite often fine until you hit 75-85 mph...then they become an issue. To start with, be sure that the colored dot on the tire that indicates the lightest area (usually yellow) is next to your valve stem (theoretically the heaviest area of the rim). While you're doing this, ensure that the arrow on the tire is consistant with the direction of rotation. You can balance the wheel yourself with nothing more than stick on weights and patience by supporting the axled wheel on two supports such as jackstands...or even mount it untightened on the bike with the brake caliper and chain off if you can't find any milk crates or stacks of books. As far as the strap mounting...yeah, it will work. Tire irons are cheap and faster. As with most other things, its technique, not technology. Remember that with most of these tutorials and demos, the user is practiced using relatively clean and broken in equipment...that includes the tire. New tires are stiff and aren't familiar with the process, so like a donkey, they tend to resist what they don't know how to do. And as with anything else in life, lubrication is paramount. You should have an air source capable of maintaining 2-3 cubic feet of air at 100psi to get the bead seated....and lube the bead just before that step. And lastly, again as in real life, your best bet is to have an experienced assistant for the first time.

Found this on eBay this am, 3/19/08. 2000 XX (titanium) with less than 5000 miles. Appears to be bone stock with exception of matching Corbin BeetleBags, Genmar bar risers, and an LP half bra for the tank. Its at a dealer in Illinois as a trade-in. eGay link Always wanted a titanium bird so I could have XX's and 00's.

http://binghamton.craigslist.org/mcy/588435617.html

Nothing firsthand, only a comment. I'd suspect it NOT to fall into a turn well. You're stretching the tire to fit it to a 5.5 inch wide rim, which flattens it out...negating the idea that it will "fall in" to a corner.

What did you use to compress the springs?

Start with the bulb and work your way back. Check the plug for current, and move back through the switch and wiring harness.

Its cum colored. Got any black shoe polish?

Akrapovich, Corbin, undertail, hugger, crash bobbins, higher windscreen...........looks nice.

Yes they are. However, you can change the sealing rings by grinding the head from each pin and replacing half the entire chain, link by link, with new master links and seals. This should take about 20 hours of labor and cost around $250. An plan more economical of time and finances would be to replace the entire chain as a unit, taking about half an hour and costing $130. The chain is sealed until deterioration of the sealing rings occurs. Some of the causes of that deterioration are: :A long life of constant friction (wearing out from normal use) :Excessive longitudinal friction. The sealing ring is designed to seal against rotary motion, not linear motion. As the chain wears, play develops in the links, and allows the sideplates to shift in relationship to the link pin, not just rotate around them. That motion rolls the sealing ring just a bit, and helps to introduce adjacent junk into the seal. That junk is typically abrasive, and hastens the demise of the sealing ring. :solvents....make the sealing ring softer and less cohesive, and therefore more susceptible to damage. :corrosives...road salts and other chemicals can damage the seals. :aggressive physical cleaning can force abrasives into the sealing area. This included the use of pressure washers and soaps which can strip the lubricant layer from the seal. :heat...lack of lubrication between the rollers/sprockets causes increased heat, breaking down the seal. This can be from extended high speed operation, inconsistant or infrequent chain maintainance/oiling, or misalignment of the sprockets. I'm sure there's more, but this is what comes to mind. Look at the grime you find inside the sprocket cover when you change your front sprocket. This is a fine tenacious mix of chain lube and road dirt. In many instances I've seen, it would almost make a good valve grinding compound, and its a collection of what's been flung off your chain. When you use solvents to clean your chain of this crap, you're releasing the abrasive road grit to get closer to the seals. I NEVER clean a chain, unless its been contaminated with something that's just nasty...like road salt. Then I just flush it with high-detergent engine oil. Otherwise, I use a chain lube often, and if the chain is really crappy, I'll take an oil-soaked rag to clean up the side plates. So what's the bottom line? A chain costs $130. Sprockets are as cheap as $40 front and rear. Does it really make a difference if they wear out in 10k miles or 20k miles? That's roughly one to two cents per mile at the extremes....not anything to bother your nappy head about. The real issue about chain wear is not about mileage from each chain, but keeping it safe so that it doesn't take out your engine case when it breaks....or worse yet, toss you down the road like a rag doll when it locks the rear end up at any speed. If your chain and sprockets show wear....replace them. Its not worth wringing the last mile out of them. This is not a good visual. There are things here I don't want to know, or think about.

Not sure what you're doing here, although its clear you are trying to get rid of the risers. Understand that the Genmar device is nothing but the notched ring that goes over the fork tube, and a fancy cap. The risers, or fork tube extensions are a different device, not available from Genmar. As far as I know, these were only available from Jaws. A picture of what you have would be helpful.

Never used the Z6...just the diablo series and the racier Metzelers. Bridgestone never stepped out on me...just seemed to hunt all the time. Still took it right to the edge, and that was in NC, two up, trying to stay in touch with the hot shoes.....

It doesn't matter if you use a solvent at all, as long as you change the sealing rings afterwards, whether they're O, X, or Z-rings. Try using some clean oil on a rag.

If you won it at a poker run, make sure that the dyno will take it. A lot of those Hardley dynos top out at 100hp.

That PC would fit both the '99 and the '01.

I had one on the rear, and got the best mileage I've got out of anything I've used. It had approximately 5000 miles when I took it off, and it had wear left. That's about twice what I get out of other tires. I wore that completely to the edge of the tread at SEXXT. The reason I didn't get another one is that it never felt good...it always had this greasy, slippy feeling to it...like it was just waiting for the best place to toss me down the road. I much prefer the on-rails feeling that I get from the Metzelers and Pirellis. I've used Metzeler tires for more than 30 years, and like 'em.

Correct. That's not what I'm talking about.

My uncle might give me some of my money back this year, and I believe it would be astute to contemplate the dispersion of those funds prior to their arrival so as to avoid any stress that might come about by having dinero in my pocket and an unsurety of what to spend it on. I'm sure something will break before then that will require a cash infusion, but just in case......... I was grunting unhappily on some very stubborn bolts the other day. I had 8 to remove, and was undecided whether to continue reefing on them, or get the impact wrench. That would involve turning on the compressor and running 100 feet of air hose out and around the shed and garage. The fellow who came to pick up the item I was removing the 8 bolts from said "let me get my portable." I thought "yeah, right.....that'll really rip these bolts out." I'm using a 36 inch breaker bar and bracing myself against something to turn them out, although it got easy enough to use a 12 inch ratchet after about 4 complete turns. Well, he shows up with a 1/2 inch drive Snap-On portable impact wrench and proceeds to buzz them bolts out in about 2 minutes. I figured it had to be an 18 or 24 volt motor, but I believe he said it was 12 volt. Anyway, I was impressed, so I'm looking for recommendation of brand and model for both a 1/2 inch drive portable electric impact wrench, and a 3/8ths drive portable electric ratchet. If any of y'all have used either of these items, I'd appreciate any feedback on what works well or didn't work well before I make a purchase I'll regret.