rockmeupto125

That's a beast for sure, and probably doesn't require the 15 CFM that mine needs to turn over, which is why I've only ever used it taking it to someone ELSE'S garage.

+1

Chain fall and a gantry.

You could have borrowed my one inch railroad gun. It uses a ton of air, but has removed every fastener I've put it on.

Again, not exactly on topic, but within the realm.... I grabbed my HF Bauer brushed 1/2 drive and a fresh charged battery and tried unsuccessfully to spin a lugnut off the F250. Then I swapped the battery to my HF Bauer brushless 1/2 drive and spun three lug nuts off lickety split. Then I spun a wheel bolt off an old parts tractor that's probably been on there for 50 years, again without hesitation. I was going to buy a 3/4 drive Earthquake XT gun on clearance today, but reason prevailed and I passed on the awesome 40% off clearance price that ended today.

Ideally, you'd switch the wiring side to side and see if the problem follows the wiring, or stays back with the switch.

Pretty good for the price. He ended up paying 3g, $500 more than friends and family price. He looked underneath. There IS metal there, and there was no flex in the upper mount when he bought it. It's a common repair in this area, should cost around $200. Easier to do with the bed off, but surprised he pulled it anyway because when you do that you break all the rusted bolts that hold it on. Bottom line is that I decided to sell the truck before it became my problem. Similar trucks list for $5000, and I'll admit I lied in my original post...I had intended to list it on FB the same day I posted it here, but ran out of time, got busy, etc and didn't list it on FB until the last week of the year. He was here the same day I listed it with the deposit. That tells me it was priced appropriately. I give a lot of stuff away, at least with this one I got a little money back towards expenses. He wasn't po'ed, just sharing. He still owed me $200, I told him to keep it and put it toward the repair so that made it $3000, I still have extra wheels, tires, and accessories he hasn't picked up yet. Taillight warranty yes, but he's a neighbor a couple blocks over and if he really had a problem, I'd buy it back (minus transfer and taxes). But he looked at it and under it and isn't a mechanical idiot.

Not what I asked, but no problem with sparking (hah!) a tool discussion! I sense a discussion similar to the ICE vs EV chats, hopefully not deteriorating. I've invested an obscene amount in cordless tools and batteries that have no essential residual battle. As a matter of fact, it's an investment just trying to properly dispose of one of these giant battery packs. Over the years I've accumulated 12, 18, 20, 36, and 40 volt tools and batteries. Central Electric from Harbor Fright, Dewalt, Kobalt, plus Earthquake and Bauer brands again both from Harbor Fright. Quickly ticking them off in my head I'm coming up with somewhere near $2500 spent on batteries. And $3000 in tools including impact guns, ratchets, staple guns, drills, air compressors, lights, grease guns, chain saws, blowers, lawnmowers, sprayers, etc. As a comparison, I probably have spent between $1000 and $1500 on air tools over a much longer period of time. Those include impact guns, ratchets, butterflies, chisels, hammers, drills, sanders, blowguns, grease guns, etc. I know I included lawn equipment under electric, but I am not including tire machine or blast cabinet under this category of air tools. A compressor is a central element of an air tool system, but I have spent less than $100 on the compressors that run my air tools in over 50 years of using them, which is pretty comical. I'm thrifty and shop for bargains. Almost every tool referred above was a discounted sale or already used when I purchased. Batteries are a premium, and keep their value until they age so they were and are a significant part of the cordless investment, vs the compressed air I mentioned in paragraph previous. So what's the point? Well, I do appreciate the positive points of a cordless tool system. Portability is the biggest thing, and now that the technology has come to deliver comparable performance to air tools using a 20 volt platform, that is an even greater positive. My 40 Kobalt tools are really great, the batteries are heavy, bulky, and expensive as all get out. My 36 volt Dewalt tools are somewhat great. The batteries are heavy, bulky, and Mercedes level expensive. The tools are built like old corded saws...no need for an extended warranty, you can regularly throw them off a roof. The best reason not to get rid of them is run time, which is like all day. But the impact gun is a huge disappointment, and provided the impetus for this thread. When I last took lug nuts off, I was changing tires on my Silverado, and the nuts were torqued to 140 foot pounds factory spec. The Dewalt, with a half charged battery and a rating of 325 ft/lbs of tightening torque, couldn't budge them. I was disappointed but not surprised, as i've had to break lug nuts by hand as a general rule using this tool. Never has it loosened my F250 bolts at 165 ft/lbs. On a whim, I picked my my Bauer 1/2 impact with a fresh battery. This is the old model with the brush motor. It took all 24 lugs nuts off without a struggle or even a pause. So I think that's a demonstration of the advances in technology in cordless tools, which leads to suspect that there have been similar advances in the technology used in air tools, which led me to a google search, and subsequently this thread. I intend to continue to use air power. Tools are lighter, make a neat sound, and some of them have no comparable battery tool. An air hammer has saved me lots and lots of time over the years. I will have an air compressor to power tire tools and blasting cabinet, there's no reason not to use it for other things. And I get to buy a hose reel. Icepick, make him an offer he can't refuse, that's a great pile to work with. I just went out and dusted off my framing nailer, as Harbor Fright has the nails that fit it on clearance. 😀

As I'm looking over my tool collections, needs, and wants for the new garage, I'm not finding the answer to a question that has surfaced in my small brain. I have quite a collection of old air powered tools that I used to use on a regular basis when I wrenched for money. Snap-On, Ingersol-Rand, Bluepoint branded impact guns, ratchets and such. I know that the engineering is dynamic, and new air tools continue to be produced and sold, so they must be doing something right. What I can't find with a google search (what CAN you find anymore with a google search except something for sale) is any comparison of old air tools vs new air tools. So those of you who may have used old tools, or you geriatrics who have upgraded, do you have any insights? Are new are tools that much more powerful than the vintage ones?

I got this picture today from the buyer....

In our thoughts, Philip. You and Susan as well.

At first glance that seems a fair price.

Link --- not available. And the brand has a website! But doesn't show that model. See?

Because if project farm reviews an item sold by QQixleei, and it can't be found 6 months later (even though it is the exact same product being sold by YTotL), that information is of zero worth. Thanks for the link will check it out.

I cheaped out and got the Sealights that Krypt recommended instead of the Phillips that Tomek spoke for because I didn't want to afford the Phillips. The Sealights were well discounted and they put out a ton of white not yellow light in comparison to the stock bulbs, and I feel like they were a worthwhile upgrade if the bulbs last. They certainly extended my range and ease of driving at night, and as cliche as it is, I haven't been flashed yet except by one dickhead whose lights were in the top 10% of crazy bright lights I've seen (and I had my lows on). So that stat is on outlier, and irrevelevent. The bar goes on my truck for a combination of cool factor, giggles, and extra light when I need it. Around here, light bars double as driving lights on back roads and I'm not above that. It doesn't have to be crazy bright. But it's all confusing. I'm looking at 4WDKING 40 inch 200 watt for $120, and theres a Camiy 40 inch 540 watt for $40. Things don't add up. The problem with so many comparisons is that the low end stuff is frequently not traceable. You may buy a light from XXchingli and it may work well, but in 6 months there's no trace of the company.

Hey all, any recommends for a light bar that's not junk and not cubic $$$? Hard to read between the lines in all these ads, an online reviews are "It's JUNK" or "It's fanTaStiK" or "see my video about how to install taillight bulbs." Thanks!

I usually find that pricey tires have quite even weight distribution. Carlos, your dynamic machine balance is fine but you won't tell the difference between a proper static balance. And you doing it yourself will take the time to get it right with one wheel weight rather than someone who isn't invested in your bike. I've taken multiple weights of wheels only to replace with one (along with a name brand tire instead of in iChang or DuraKing). I bet Mike doesn't cart a big machine to the salt flats every year.

And that's exactly the point. My tire machine is down, but I would still do bike tires by hand, no second thought. Hopefully come spring I can get things working again.

Seems like a crap shoot, might be best to just see what fits on the bike most easily. Or you could seal the frame or swingarm, put a valve on it, and carry a jumper hose. Better yet, get that proper colored pumper, mount a lightweight aluminum tank on the frame, and set the pumper up so the swingarm does the work and keeps the tank filled. And macgyver a blowoff valve onto it like you have air brakes. Then you could set up an air horn, air shifter, air for emergency repairs or even help with CPR.

Between prime and a coupon these were about $50 as I recall. I don't think that 4 of the incandescent bulbs that were in it would produce this much light. There is some scatter, and the cutoff isn't sharp, but I haven't been flashed yet. If they last they will have been a worthwhile investment. Had to wait to put them on until I got the truck inspected, upgrades to direct lighting systems not allowed.

It was listed for $1300, new they are $3500-ish. That's a nice price. I debated about it. This would help with insulating the garage when I have to do the ceiling but is way too short for other things like cleaning my gutters. If I could do that with a small device I would sell the bucket truck but I'm not paying that much for something that will have limited use in my hand.

And that's why 2 inch pipe. The wire I'm using is 2-2-2-4, which comes out to a very low 13.4% fill in 2 inch pvc. That's the best chance I have of getting it through there myself.

There would be no point. After you did it, you'd have to lift the heavy combination into a trench and position it. The greatest drawback is there would no way to anchor the conduit while you are pulling through it, so you would have to provide both push AND pull. Cable pulling tensions can approach 1000 lbs of force in extreme situations. For instance, pulling this cable through four 90's of 1.5 inch conduit would be approaching extreme.

You certainly can. It's absolutely against code, however. The concern is the solvent used to melt the PVC together could damage the insulation of the wires. But yeah, you could do it. The way things are looking I may have to pull through four 90's unless I do some creative bending just to match up with the pipe the jackasses that poured the pad put in while I wasn't looking. It might be easier to just forget about the existing access and put another rise and LB into the building using only two 90's. I have to look at doing this without help and I don't think I can pull hard enough to get those 4 ropes through 1 and a quarter pipe no matter how much lube I use without someone feeding it from the other side Surprise, surprise.......the owner of the local True Value dropped dead and they are liquidating. I picked up 2 inch PVC conduit for less than the regular price of 1 and a half inch. So that decision is made. Fur, I've been putting some things together. I think that cable you pulled out of the ground was specifically "well cable" given where it was and that it had a sealer in it. Well cable is considered to be temporary, but never is. And the insulation is only expected to last 15 or so years. Well cable isn't rated or approved for ANYTHING except powering a well pump. So it would be no surprise that the insulation was sketchy. As I understand things from my research, lots of progress has been made in not only the metals science behind aluminum for wiring, but also in the jacketing and insulation materials. Per norm, codes lag behind the technical capabilities as well as myths and old electrician's tales about how "you'll kill somebody if you do that" take a long time to die out.

Well, the house is probably going to go to someone I like, unless they maneuver the state to take the house in exchange for my nursing home. If not, they'll sell the house anyway. But I would like it to be pretty much to code specifications so the insurance company can't weasel out of paying for it if there's a fire. If I got it inspected, I would have to bring the house up to current code, and that's not happening. I think the house wiring meets the 1878 NEC the way it is. Sand forms a bed for direct burial cable to hold it away from rocks and other baddies that can wear through the insulation. Then sand goes on top for the same reason. Then boards to deflect a shovel or pick from the cable, buried cable marking tape, and then backfill. I had really planned on conduit until I found out just how much more anything bigger than one inch cost. I'm going shopping this morning, or I should say "pricing."