rockmeupto125

Well, first day of travel on the way home. Damn is this loud. It flags the O2 heater on every "key on" without when starting the truck. Clear that code before turning the starter, and no codes at all until the next start up. Send to run okay, a little down on power but I think it came that way. Gotta change the exhaust manifold gaskets and get the new cats on when we get home.

Need to get one. Does anybody have one they'd recommend that's not too pricey? Or do y'all just use an peak voltage adapter? I'm not inclined to be smart enough to use, nor have a need for the services of an oscilloscope. Thanks!

I think you are missing the point here. "Crew" does not infer a limousine's capability. Who is your average crew? That's right....and your average Mexican is not a very large person

They are in the $200 range online so it shouldn't be too bad. And if a manifold is cracked or a bolt seized/messed up, they seem those on Amazon for crying out loud, less than $100.

There's a problem buying old used cats. First, they take them off junk cars to sell for recycle so they are hard to find. Second, they are already old and used. New will only cost a couple hundred bucks for cheap Chinese stuff (or wherever they make fake/phony/crap ones). I need to replace exexhaust manifold gaskets as well, so that will be one whole operation.

Well, a bad heater can be caused by contamination. I spent quite a bit of mind energy on this. I also remembered I have my thermometer with me. A quick check of pre and post cat temperatures left and right made me more comfortable with my decision. I bought a new cut off tool at HF today. It works quite well. The truck sounds like a B gasser with a one square inch hole in the left pipe just before the cat, but it sure does run better and it doesn't have that squeak anymore from exhaust back pressure blowing out around the gaskets. Gotta hit Dollar Tree for some earplugs.

Still threw some O2 heater codes for a while but send better now, running about normal without a load.

Dropped the trailer, cleared the codes and truck seems to run fine up to 80 on the highway. Dropped down a couple gears to bring the revs up to 3500 and immediately got a blinking CEL that cleared itself, and left a pending code for cylinder 8 misfire. Picked up a coil at Napa and will swap it out in the parking lot after lunch.

2015 F250 XLT 6.2 gas 4WD. My Bluetooth OBD showed nothing. I plugged in my laptop with Forscan this morning and it showed cylinder 8 misfire. Plan on replacing the coil as soon as I can get to auto parts store.

Copied from the Not Racerthread. First day on road from PA to FL. Only a couple butt-tightening moments when the quickly flashing CEL and power loss got my immediate attention. Quickly went away with speed reduction and left no codes. I suspect a low oil sensor. I never lost pressure but running at a steady 4500 rpm to maintain 65-70mph probably left a lot of oil out of the oil pan. It also uses some oil with that continued stress so I brought the oil back up to the top of the stick and no issues since (so far). We are nearly through the big hills so less stress on the rig soon. *Addendum; as the day progresses, the CEL becomes more common with high rpm, clearing itself and leaving no report. Day 2: 6. The day started off with the same behavior. Got so I can't sustain > 3000 rpm without misfire and going into limp mode. Let up and the CEL stops flashing in 15 seconds and it goes back to running okay. No active codes, no pending faults. Limits me to 62 Max on any real hill (did you know the sovereign state of Georgia is ALL uphill). Can't pull 6th at any speed. Looking back, it seems like power decreased as lowly all day, but hard to say with trying to deal with so much input. Traffic, navigation, pain in my leg because I can't use cruise, all taking a couple cents from my dollar. Now the exhaust seems louder. I know I'm using more throttle, my leg aches and there's more intake noise. In the last 100 miles, there's a squeal like a slipping belt. And in the last 30 miles, temp is slightly up. I can think of no one thing that combines all those symptoms. I have gotten codes a couple times for a bank 2 O2 sensor heater circuit. If there's an intermittent misfire that dumps unburned fuel downstream, that's an expectable error. We made it, but I'm not sure how. The coolant is good. Belt is tight. Water pump has no wiggle. Gonna go crawl around underneath and in the engine bay. Did I mention it's raining?

No. I've been using pliers for that same task for 60 years, I can still figure that part out. $340 in gift cards. I think you meant to say "Joe is able to get a new LIFT, he just doesn't think it's worth throwing the old one away versus maybe finding a nice bottle jack and fixing it." THAT would be correct. Besides, Joe has 6 lifts, and doesn't need another.

Wow...that's the exact jack I'm looking for!

I'm just looking for an off the shelf way to have it working. I can design/weld/cut/drill, but i don't want to....drilling a half inch hole in a hardened steel cylinder has a place on the list of things I don't want to do.

Ding.

Too the jack, got some pics, have it back to hF who expediently handed me some wallet folder to spend in the upcoming

I imagine that one batch was made by a subcontractor, or maybe the new guy (how much you pay boss? $20? Too much money). And because they don't keep great records, they couldn't find them all, so had to lump them all together when somebody complained.

You could print one, right? And maybe print me a couple bottle of hydraulic fluid while you are at it.

So I have this lift, yes it's from Harbor Freight. It's a nice lift, and has come in handy. I bought it a long time ago. It has been recalled by HF for sketchy welds. I did some research, and it seems that everyone who voiced their complaints on the interwebs had a similar story of misalignment, bolts not fitting, etc. Now they sold over 40,000 of these, so my guess is that a small batch, maybe subcontracted, used the wrong jigs or didn't set them up properly. Whatever. I know that mine works well and many other people are happy with them. But Harbor Freight posted a flyer at my local store to tell me that they wanted their possibly defective lift back. However, the logistics and cost of returning a large steel framed device is a bit much, so they only want me to return the jack, as a token of ownership. My friendly sales associates tell me that this is a pretty standard practice for larger recall or warranty items. I'm perfectly fine with doing my part to assure that HF's liability in this situation is negated and they can move forward with a clear conscience. I'm also perfectly fine with purchasing a new jack, and continuing to use the item at my peril and fully aware of the risks and hazards of my actions. This to me is a simple jack. It has a flat 4 inch square base, is 12 inches high, extends about 6 inches and the ram is a simple cylinder with a hole in the end for a through pin. This is referred to as a "pin hole" mount, and of course any search immediately sends me to repair parts for a leaking seal. A simple jack, but I cannot find a similar jack anywhere online, despite some extensive searching. I can modify, but I'd really rather just buy a new jack for it. Harbor Freight does not supply parts for recalled items. Any ideas?

I think you got the double sided tape template, not the screw mount template.

Thank you for the validation 😁

LoL, yesterday it was a 20% discount. You're showing 10. I checked it just now, it's 5%. Tomorrow it will be $12

Why not just print a belt? Oh, wait.... printer broke..... Now I get it.

There was actually a scanned file online for a hinge from a vintage radio shack turntable? Damn.

I'm looking at devices online that scan to 0.7mm accuracy for the $300 range. I would that would be adequate for most motorcycle plastics applications. Now a printer that could make a 3 foot by 2 foot fairing panel or nose cowl, that might be a bit more complicated $$$.

So what kind of money would you be talking from start to finish?