rockmeupto125

I think the rotor bolts are 8mm, and ISO standards are pretty vague specifying somewhere from 4 to 12 mm of thread depending on how tight the threads are. I would not feel exceptionally comfortable with a grip at the lower end of that scale. Neither am I a certified mechanical engineer so while it may be safe, I don't like it. The lands for the rotor mount are machined from the cast surface of the hub to be parallel with the wheel centerline and by definition, the opposing machined surfaces. The area you are suggesting to thread the hub is a cast, imprecise surface and the rotor will not be true unless lady luck plays a part in the game.

Internet folklore has the inner to inner spacing of the CB1300 discs at 132mm, so it might work with a metal shim behind the disc. I'm silly, so I'd try it, but I'd certainly want the CB1300 axle and spacers to go by. The collar width, step off on the axle, and bearing width are what keeps the forks straight so they don't bind with movement. You'll need pretty accurate measurement to choose the correct bearing width to keep that width

So you have a 600RR to compare with, correct? And you measured the disc separation on the 600 and the 1100 as a comparison? By searching the parts books, you surmised that the 600 and the 1300 rotors will interchange, having the same specifications. The gap in the data is that although the 600 and 1300 discs may be effectively the same, you still don't know if the hub width on the 1300 is the same as the 600, and you can't assume the spacing without that information.

I think it's Tomek's.

The only thing you would need to know is how far apart the discs are and how that compares to an XX. From there you will know how much the calipers will need to be moved. Choose ID, OD, or measure from the middle of the disc, just do it the same way for both. I'd measure at a couple different points just on the possibility that one of your data discs is warped.

Th concern is hub spacing combined with the offset of the disc. If the discs are the same width apart as an XX, then you can spacer the hub to fit the fork legs. If not, you're going to have to spacer the calipers to match them.

Most of my Snap-On tools were new in the 1960's. The ratchet teeth are getting a little rounded. I would buy old name brand in good shape before I'd spend money on new name brand. I've rarely seen tools become better made.

Still have hair. And too many XX's.

Inside joke, Gary. More importantly, trying to generate interest. 😜

Need a chain guard?

Eurobeaner was lusting on that. Congrats on sale.

Caleb......attempts to contact you by phone are unsuccessful. I need your address.

The aftermarket shims like Hotcams are readily available from cycle supplies online. Ebay as well, maybe even Amazon.

I caught hell the last time I stripped an XX skeleton and didn't advertise, so here I am. Stripping a 1999 XX skeleton, frame fittings, swingarm, brales. ETC are available, not much else from this one. If you have any needs or wants, speech up.

I think the premise is fair. He's advertising it on an XX forum for a friend who just wants it gone and doesn't really know how to go about it. He's not interested in the forum for any other reason, hence his email. He's done his due diligence to his friend and XX people might get a nice bike. Now, given the circumstances, the title situation may well be a concern.

He posted an email address to use.

https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/not-sure-if-this-cbr-xx-good-buy.50866/#post-652122

Comes up on Google.

There's what appears to be a bone stock (except for pricey slip ons), pristine XX potentially for sale listed on the other XX site. Low 20's mileage, Florida location, 5k-ish price. Just a heads up.

Like this?

I think it's an excellent ad. The only thing I might suggest is a short initial Cliff Note first paragraph for those with short attention spans (those folks have money too). I think that would sell in about a day around here.

There's a passel on that site. Which ones did you use?

Here's what I would do if I just wanted to run a couple wires. *Remove the seat. *Remove the two bolts holding down the rear of the tank. *Pop the trim panels away from the tank in the rear. *Lift the rear of the tank an inch or two. It might be helpful to release the wiring to the tank from the clip on the left side of the tank mount. *Gently run a stiff wire from the rear to the front of the tank to grab and pull your more flexible wiring through. It's hot under there, be sure it is adequately insulated. *Put it back together. For the record, I rarely remove a tank. For almost any need, the tank can be removed from its mounts and rotated up in the front, then over to rest on its top (think backflip) with adequate padding. As I recall, it's helpful to disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit wiring and pull one or two vacuum hoses...nothing more. If you have some way or someone to support the tank upright, even that is unnecessary. No need to disconnect fuel lines or anything else.