rockmeupto125

Nothing in your coolant or oil, I would suspect it is just local condensation contaminating the oil and sequestering in the PAIR galleys.

So closing a circuit, either by turning the ignition switch on or moving the fan switch to on, is the circumstance upon which the circuit either functions or fails to function. Conditions have to be meet for electricity to flow. Think of an arc welder. On a vehicle of that age, I would suspect an aging ground connection for that circuit.

I never read anyplace in the thread that you wanted a stock one. There's literally one on my desk.

Check his account.

Tim, I expect you know this, but you should have accounts with local stores, especially if they are chains. There's often good discounts at Napa, tractor supply, AutoZone, etc for business accounts.

Best I know, their standard line is EP, here at least, unless the battery is Bosch branded. Don't know if there's NAPA in the sovereign state of Washington.

I have been satisfied with the performance of the Duracell batteries I buy at Sams Club. They are an East Penn product, made about 150 miles from here. Do you see East Penn brands like Deka and MK on the west coast?

Yes, but there are so many possible causes that it is hard to chase down. Decreased neck mobility is a significant sign. If your symptoms are improving with medication and a bit of physio then that's a good thing

Do you have limitation of movement in your neck?

You can put a tube in a tubeless tire on a tubeless rim, but it is not optimal. My understanding is that at higher speeds the tire and tube tend to rub against each other and create a leak. In a pinch, certainly. As tight as many of the newer wheels and tires are, I wouldn't look forward to doing it. Chris, if you need wheels, I'm sure I have a set you can send to the plater, or powder coater. Heck, get them C series cerakoted.

Find out where they do that for $100. I'll get 4 sets done

Short term fresh rubber and bead sealer should be all you need. In the long term, I'm not sure. When you say the chrome is falling off, that creates an unstable bread seating surface. Best case there would be to getting the chrome off the seating surface, but that will even moreso expose the chrome edge to corrosion and ultimately failure. If you actually have pitting, mild to moderate, you can clean the pits and fill them with JB Weld or similar compound, grinding it flat when cured. It's as sealing surface, not structural, so no concern over using the compound. If t the e pits are deep, that is not realistic to repair. And once the chrome deteriorates onto the room surface, you could strip the when and replate it, but you may find corrosion extending under the plating. At that point, economics would suggest a good un-mucked with wheel to start afresh wit hope this helps. You get the gist. Rereading, Google has placed many errors into what I entered to my phone, sorry.

The pain that you get with the type of hip degradation that typically is treated with hip replacement surgery is often what people (including myself) describe as groin pain.

Yeah, I can't do that with Forscan. A tuner for the 6R140 is in the $2000 range. You can buy a canned tune and have it installed for less than $500. Nothing out there for DYI unless you're an absolute nutter.

Thank you for the reminder! I appreciate when folks post a denouement of their experience, so that other's may benefit. Not so sure anyone could benefit from this, unless they get a laugh out of it at my expense. If you recall "It flags the O2 heater [P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank2/Sensor2] on every "key on" without when starting the truck. Clear that code before turning the starter, and no codes at all until the next start up." Shortly after you asked, I did run Forscan with my laptop. The only codes thrown were the one above and pending P2254 O2 Sensor Negative Current Control Circuit/ Open Bank 2, Sensor 1. The bank 2 exhaust manifold was cracked and needed to be replaced. There was a slight leak in that side before we left for the trip. The bank 1 manifold was notably warped, and also replaced. Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalytic converters were also replaced. P0161 persists and I need to change out that O2 sensor. I swear I bought one a while ago but have not yet found it. The truck is quiet, somewhat smoother, relatively powerless, and absolutely in need of a shift point upgrade. The ride, smoothness, mileage, and towing capability are all greatly improved if I simply shift it myself, which is a PIA as the manual shift toggle is located on the column shift lever rather than steering wheel paddles.

No, it's locked. I bought it used, and had to pay $50 to the company to unlock it before I could pair it to my old truck to flash the PCM.

Yeah, but this was just a compact little unit with a nice interface, I didn't want to throw it away.

Yes, and I thought the same.

That's what I suspected and thanks for a personal verification.

I believe so, as I'm wanted to check pulse devices like camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. And coils, etc, all things that have a spike voltage that can't be measured by a standard voltmeter. I've not had the time to re-research this and refresh my memory, there's so much crap in it and I've been super busy with the trip and all. And as noted, I'm asking here because I'm temporarily (hopefully) dumb. Cal, can you quote me the part of the description of the second Amazon device you linked that says it does what I want? That's part of the problem. I'm convinced there must be another language or jargon denoting "peak voltage test" because I really can't find that phrase in any description of a meter when I search.

I have an ECM tuner that was used in my long deceased 2008 F350 with the 6.4 PowerStroke. The way the tuner works is that a tune is loaded into the tuner, then it writes to the ECM. After that, the tuner is not needed unless you wanted to reinstall the stock tune. The tuner also had a nice suite of gauges that one could choose from that weren't on the OEM dashboard, and for that reason I'd like to plug it into my 2015 f250 with a 6.2 gas motor. My presumption is that the tuner doesn't write anything to the ECM unless it is in programming mode, so it shouldn't do any damage, and just function as a fancy OBD2 reader. The company is long out of business and there's no support forum that I can find online. Does this line of thinking seem reasonable?

Yep, it's just for automotive/motorcycle work, Cal.

I've had good luck with Italian chrome, it seems to pit less than the japanese. Steel wool like Oscar said, than the Simichrome polishing mat.

Have you looked at or considered alternatives to chrome plating? I would be surprised if there were not some cool shiny paints, coatings, treatments available that might not carry the cost of chrome and might be pretty nifty. I have nothing specific to offer as I'm ignorant of the subject.

There are no pendings and only the P0161 code. I will check it (with my little Bluetooth OBDII) before I shut it down, as you asked. This little Bluetooth OBDII does not seem to be as full-featured as a regular program. So, when I get an opportunity, I'll plug in my laptop and do a full scan. Good thoughts, there.