tripledigits

This is a well maintained Blackbird with 33,500 miles. Priced at $4,900. The bike has never been in a crash and runs perfectly. Synthetic oil changed regularly. Pictures will be up soon The good: Corbin seat Penske triple adjustable shock ($1300) Traxxion Dynamics fork internals Power Commander Foot peg extender for taller riders Mirror extenders for bigger riders Michelin PR2 rubber in very good condition Tank bra Heli-bars Voltmeter for checking battery condition Power plug for heated clothing, etc. Heated grips Custom aluminum rack Rear seat custom back support, removable Throttlemeister cruise control Akrapovic full exhaust Aftermarket windscreen - double bubble Pyramid fender hugger The bad: Small tank dent under bra from hail Front cowling repair from a hail hit (1 spot) This bike is priced to sell. Call Jeff at (303) 961-1554 Located in Denver, CO area (Parker)

Stock cans from my 02 BB. About 10K miles on them. 2 small scratches on one can. $50 plus shipping. Jeff 303 961 1554. Located near Denver.

I use an i4c gauge that draws hardly any current. I've had no problem in 2 years with it. It's not lit, but I can still read it at night with low light conditions. I velcroed it below the instrument panel as you can see. It's waterproof. I actually have a new spare one that's just been sitting around, if you want it. $48 shipped. I bought an extra one for a future bike that hasn't been bought.

Dream on!

Looks nice, I'll take one.....

Thanks John, I'll post up my map later this week. I decided to have the local race shop do a dyno tune this morning. It'll be at 5300 feet elevation. Should be an interesting comparison. Jeff

I know there's been interest in the maps, and wanted to see if anyone had custom map for this setup.

To follow up on the PC3 custom map, I pulled the map (after dyno tune) off the PC, and it was the same as the map it had when I brought it in. It was a map I had downloaded from the PC website. I was beginning to have suspicions the shop (which recently went out of business) didn't really know their stuff when it came to dyno tuning. The good news is I only paid $100 for the tuning..... Now it's off the real dyno shop. I'll post map when I have it done. Jeff

Are you rpm-limited at all? If not, you'd be a fool not to exploit that. No rpm limits. I think the stock rev limiter is not too restrictive, though. I'm a bit concerned about engine longevity in bumping up the limiter.

Well,porting on current sportbikes is not really a "porting",it is just basic clean up to better match valve seats to the throat part of the port.Port shape is not really changed. As far as cost effective,motors on sport bikes are well developed these days,unless you turbo the poor thing it is not effective,honestly,2-3 grand to squize 20 extra hp from liter bike ? High compression pistons are total waste of money in current era,not to mention something like from Wiseco is much lesser quality then O.E.M.I weighted pistons on my 04 R1 ,all are within 0.1 gram.Try that with aftermarked. I built YZF 1000 motor with Wiseco 1040 kit,it was a fucking nightmare,pistons as delivered opened squish to 1.7 mil ,had to shave off 1 mil from the block,shave those stupid compression bumps,lay back valve pocket to get good burn,,,,,,,Wiseco sucks,those pistons belong in Cat diesel ,not in lightweight bike motor,,,,,,,,,,, Formula Extreme factory R6 and Erion cbr600 rr run stock pistons,140+ whp from 600 cc motors,,,,,,,, Honestly,what compression ratio do you run? You can get 13.5 with stock pistons and cams without touching valve pockets on current literbike,thinner head gasket/shaved block/shaved head,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,170 whp is nothing to brag on Gixer 1K,,,,the money would be better spent on set of cams,like from Yoshimura,,,,,, Looking at those ports ( R1000),it is classic www.motoman.com high velocity port job,parts are actually smaller then on stock head,it looks like it is "light " version,ports are taller then what he recommends. That yzf 1000 I mentioned, bike received high velocity portjob a la mototman,it pulls like a freight train from 3000 rpms to the redline,there are no steps in powerband whatsoever,,,,,,,,,, Next couple of weeks,I`m gonna pull out the head from my XX,refresh valve seats,do high velocity port job,etc, It is normal to use JB Weld on intake ports,it works just fine,,,,,,,,,,,exhaust ports,,,temps are too high,welding it the only way,,,,,,,, You're right, 170 hp isn't a big number for the GSXR - I just wanted an engine a step above stock that would have a nice tq curve and good longevity. This is what the engine builder recommended for my goals. As far as the pistons, I don't know what he's using, but whatever they are he's had good success with them, as he's been building the motors for a long time. My compression will not be very high, as evidenced by the recommendation for only 100 octane. Cams were an option, but not considered as cost effective as what's being done. He's got a dyno, and knows what the bottom line is for each modification. BTW, I'm spending $2K for this complete engine, not a rebuild on my current engine. I'll finally have a good spare stock engine..... Replacing pistons for your power target is utter waste of money,honestly,actually the weakest part of gixxer 1k are rods,engine has very long stroke for 1000 motor.( it is basically stroked 750). Octane numbers are not that important in case high revving superbike motor.Quick burn is.Fuel that workes on turbocharged motor is pretty much useless for this application.You can run close to 14 C/R on pump gas,there is no need for 100 octane,,,,,, As far as port size,it all depends what is your power target,what kind of usage engine will get. What works for drag racing will be no good for road racing,so the numbers don`t mean much here,,,,. Actually intake speed in the ports can be calculated,over the years (of the engine design) figure increased (close to 400 ft/sec in F1 motors),the key is to get good flow numbers without increasing ports size.Huge ports will flow well but velocity is low, so piston will push back the intake charge when is going up past BDC. Big ports work well only over very narrow powerband. Factory Superstock literbikes on special brews get clost to 180 whp.Stock cams,stock heads less valve seat prep plus whatever cheating they are allowed courtesy of AMA.Superbikes get 200+,so it is little more then 10% gain. Next time they come to Road America I`m gonna ask Mladins engine guy to allowe me to measure port size on that Gixxer.I`m pretty sure they will be more then happy to help me. I don't get into many details with my engine builder. I ask him what he recommends for what I'm doing with the car, and what I'm looking for in power delivery. The engine needed new pistons anyway, so he chose what he considered to be the best for what I'm doing. We talked about rods, and decided the stock rods were fine for the target power level. He's built a number of 180+hp GSXR engines, but I didn't want to get into spending a substantial amount of money for a diminishing return on horsepower. I wish I could increase displacement, but that would throw me into a different class where the minimum weight is higher. I run minimum weight now, so wasn't willing to trade weight for hp. Some of the C sport racers run built Hayabusas, but their engines are really expensive and a bit shorter lived than the moderately built liter bike engines. My car has a minimum weight of 1020, with driver, for solo racing. I run a straight pipe with custom header, since the bike header doesn't fit the car.

Well,porting on current sportbikes is not really a "porting",it is just basic clean up to better match valve seats to the throat part of the port.Port shape is not really changed. As far as cost effective,motors on sport bikes are well developed these days,unless you turbo the poor thing it is not effective,honestly,2-3 grand to squize 20 extra hp from liter bike ? High compression pistons are total waste of money in current era,not to mention something like from Wiseco is much lesser quality then O.E.M.I weighted pistons on my 04 R1 ,all are within 0.1 gram.Try that with aftermarked. I built YZF 1000 motor with Wiseco 1040 kit,it was a fucking nightmare,pistons as delivered opened squish to 1.7 mil ,had to shave off 1 mil from the block,shave those stupid compression bumps,lay back valve pocket to get good burn,,,,,,,Wiseco sucks,those pistons belong in Cat diesel ,not in lightweight bike motor,,,,,,,,,,, Formula Extreme factory R6 and Erion cbr600 rr run stock pistons,140+ whp from 600 cc motors,,,,,,,, Honestly,what compression ratio do you run? You can get 13.5 with stock pistons and cams without touching valve pockets on current literbike,thinner head gasket/shaved block/shaved head,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,170 whp is nothing to brag on Gixer 1K,,,,the money would be better spent on set of cams,like from Yoshimura,,,,,, Looking at those ports ( R1000),it is classic www.motoman.com high velocity port job,parts are actually smaller then on stock head,it looks like it is "light " version,ports are taller then what he recommends. That yzf 1000 I mentioned, bike received high velocity portjob a la mototman,it pulls like a freight train from 3000 rpms to the redline,there are no steps in powerband whatsoever,,,,,,,,,, Next couple of weeks,I`m gonna pull out the head from my XX,refresh valve seats,do high velocity port job,etc, It is normal to use JB Weld on intake ports,it works just fine,,,,,,,,,,,exhaust ports,,,temps are too high,welding it the only way,,,,,,,, You're right, 170 hp isn't a big number for the GSXR - I just wanted an engine a step above stock that would have a nice tq curve and good longevity. This is what the engine builder recommended for my goals. As far as the pistons, I don't know what he's using, but whatever they are he's had good success with them, as he's been building the motors for a long time. My compression will not be very high, as evidenced by the recommendation for only 100 octane. Cams were an option, but not considered as cost effective as what's being done. He's got a dyno, and knows what the bottom line is for each modification. BTW, I'm spending $2K for this complete engine, not a rebuild on my current engine. I'll finally have a good spare stock engine.....

I am by no means the expert here, but the engine guy I use for race cars (that run liter bike engines) tells me that porting on current generation engines is not very cost effective. In other words, the factory doesn't leave alot undone. I'm having a 2002 (yeah, not quite current) GSXR 1000 engine built for my sports racer, and the best bang for the buck in the opinion of the engine builder was to raise the compression with aftermarket pistons, degree the cams and reprogram the stock ECU. I'll have to run 100 octane gas. The engine will be producing about 170 hp at the wheels. This fellow builds engines for race bikes and race cars, and has a good reputation nationally. It's pretty easy to go backwards when people start playing with engines, when you look at the big picture of torque and horsepower. Not many street riders would be happy with a Blackbird that puts out 20 more hp with a peaky torque band. Just something to consider before you let someone work on your engine.

If the rim is out of true, not just dinged on one spot, many wheel repair places will not touch it. I wouldn't even bother trying to get that damaged fixed. Most likely scenario is that someone will try to fix it, it'll be better but not great, and you'll be out the repair money with a wheel you don't like. Just my .02......

One issue with straigtening bent wheels is that they will never be as strong as new. Aluminum fatigues whenever it is bent or straightened, and you're rolling the dice on its structural integrity after that.

I am comfortable laying on the tank, as well. It's quiet, easy on the arms and back. I rest my elbows on my thighs and can stay there all day.

Thanks for the reply. I actually look thru the stock screen at times - when it's raining or really cold, or when it's a really strong headwind (for one reason or another).

I recently bought an iridium Airblade screen, and was surprised to see it's not transparent. Has anyone tried one, and if so, is the non-transparency a problem? My impression without trying it is that I'd want a transparent screen. If I install it, I can't return it. Thanks.... Jeff

If you can't really tell if it's slipping, it's probably not. If I were you, I'd not do a thing until I know it's slipping, because you're not going to damage anything. Don't worry about hurting the clutch in normal riding - they're built to take alot more than most of us dish out. I've had a slipping clutch from some sort weird hydraulic lock in the clutch line. Found out after I'd replaced the clutch. Another time I thought I had a slipping clutch, and it was a broken rosette joint in a spliced axle (race car). Ditto on the Amsoil, that's not the problem.

We have voles here, which are like moles, and they feed on the juniper roots. I poison the little fu**ers with pellet poison they sell at the lawn and garden store. Seems to work, but have to repeat every 6 months. When we had a beagle, she would be out back hunting voles all day. After she died, we found out we had a problem....

Any motorcycle or auo racing shop should be able to recharge it. If you have lost the nitrogen, it could be as simple as having a leaky valve. Shocks will lose their charge slowly over a period of time, so if the shock has been sitting for a long time, that could be part of the problem. Canisters have an end cap that is sealed with an o-ring, so if the o-ring goes bad the gas goes out. There is really no other place for the gas to go, since the gas and fluid are separated by a floating piston. A hose leak would leak fluid, not gas.

Check the nitrogen charge in the shock - if it's depleted you won't get extension on the shock without pulling it by hand. If it's a reservoir shock, there is a schrader valve on the canister, if there's no reservoir, the shock body itself will have a valve. You can check the pressure with a mountain bike shock pump. A regular bike tire pump won't work because the shocks can be pressurized up to 300 psi.

Better get a 12mm hex wrench or hex socket. Installation calls for about 75 lbs of torque, IIRC.

I've been trying to post the maps here, but the floppy they were put on is having issues being opened.....

OMG, not another oil thread, pleeeez

Thanks for the replies, guys. We have 10 percent ethanol in our fuel here in CO, unfortunately. I think I'll do a little experimenting with the a/f and see what I can do for a good compromise between economy and performance. The throttle response with the pipe and PCIII is really an improvement over stock. I'll let you know what I come up with.....