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RC Randy

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Everything posted by RC Randy

  1. I would think your chances of bursting a radiator hose will come long before a brake hose. I have had a coolant hose burst on my 99 XX and have also installed the Galfer 11 line kits on two of my XX's. Great instructions with plenty of pictures and no issues during or after the install. Just plan for a full day.
  2. I have the same issue with the gas cap on my 2012 ZX14 and it is a known issue on many Kawi's since they share the same cap. Never had a problem with my 2008 zx14. Houdini is a good product and I have also used a this product with good results- https://m.3inone.com/3inone-lock-dry-lube.php
  3. The Galfer kit uses the OEM hard lines and fittings. Link is to kit and also installation instructions with many detailed pictures. http://galferusa.com/product/honda-2003-cbr-1100-xx-super-blackbird-multiple-lines-fk003d323-11
  4. I've installed the 11 line Galfer kits on 2 of my XX's. They have great installation instructions, and are well labeled to help the install go well. Plan on spending most of a day by the time you get the brake and clutch systems bled down. I too like the LBS, and you will notice a big difference on initial bite and less effort required to stop.
  5. Not mine- Looks like a nice bike. Would be glad to check it out if someone was interested. https://wichita.craigslist.org/mcy/6059341151.html
  6. I've had both of my Ohlins resprung for my 160# weight and have one of the 1092-69/170 left. I did put about 10K on it before I switched it to a lighter spring. It is nice condition, but I did find a couple of small chips. Attached is a pic. One chip on the inside, right of the OHLINS print and the other at the light reflection 2nd coil from the bottom on the outside. $40 Shipped
  7. RC Randy

    Brake woes

    You may try rebuilding your secondary master cylinder. It's been awhile, but I could bleed my 99 XX and have a firm rear pedal, and after a couple of days of comuting it would start going soft and require a few pumps to get firm at the top of the rear brake pedal. I went through an insane amount of brake fluid bleeding the brakes many times, thinking I had air trapped somewhere. Installed a kit in the secondary master and it solved the problem.
  8. That is a clean machine for 90K miles. Looks showroom new. Good luck with the sale.
  9. I've noticed the same. My 99 XX with almost 100K still out pulls my 01 with 35k and my 03 with 8k. Mine are all stock with no gearing changes. It would be fun to do back to back dyno runs.
  10. RC Randy


    Have not had first had experience, but I'm sure they are waterproof. Some sellers on Ebay show the same meter submerged in a glass of water.
  11. The only OEM obsolete part I have ran across is 2001 and older fuel tanks. Last I checked all OEM bodywork is available. You won't find it that good with Kawasaki. Not long ago my foot slipped on frost coated grass standing still, and my 2012 ZX14R fell over. All I needed was a right hand lower body panel in Metallic Spark Black, but it was already obsolete. Luckily I found a new one on Ebay. Thought about getting rid of it until I got over it.
  12. With a suggestion from a member on the com., I may have found the issue. When I installed the pair block offs I didn't remove the reeds and the little phillips screws were causing the plates not to seal at the back even though I used RTV. Once removed you could see they had not made contact to make a seal. I did the block offs on my 99XX with a kit a fellow member (Redd) sold, but that was 10 years ago, and I must have forgot and I obviously wasn't paying attention.
  13. One of the things I thought of after start up, so I switched it out with a new one. Made no difference. I brought up the battery issue, because I had read that sometimes starter clutches hang up. I will probably end up putting it back together and try to zone in on exactly where the noise is coming from. I feel a little better about it since everything appears normal on the inside and if it is still there I will post a video.
  14. Got my 01XX back together yesterday after shimming a tight exhaust valve. Now I have a noise that I can't figure out. When I got home today I pulled the valve cover and checked what I thought could be causing it and found nothing. It is a metallic noise, more that just a tick. I did run it yesterday and took if for a ride around the block. Runs as it should and noise seems to go away after 3k rpm's but almost sounds like a diesel at idle to about 3k. Thought maybe it dropped the valve I shimmed, so I went through all the valves and they all are the same and the one I shimmed is checking in recommended range. Thought maybe I didn't use enough assembly lube (moly, so I went with a thin film), but after pulling a cam cap all looks good. I'm positive it is timed correctly-I used an engraver to mark the intake sprocket and chain and used the visible mark on the exhaust sprocket, and also put marks on the inside of the sprocket and chain. I also installed a new CCT. It runs as it should. The only other things I can think of is that I found I had the two coil wires switched on the left coil, but it ran fine with them switched and made no difference when they were corrected. I did the pair block off and have a good seal on the replacement caps. Also yesterday when I turned the key on, fuel pump ran, but when I hit the starter button everything went dead. After trying to jump it off of a booster and just getting a clicking starter noise, I installed a new battery I had for my Busa and problem solved, it is cranking as it should and started fine. Thoughts?
  15. Yes, I did put assembly lube on he shim. I'm going to put it back together, do a throttle body sync, new plugs, air filter, and check them again in 15K. I'm trusting common sense and the measurements I took during the process and I did triple check. I went with a .05 smaller shim which should take me from .19 to .24 clearance. I did check the rest of the intakes on this round after reinstalling the cams and they stayed the same. Odd to only get .01 clearance increase from a .05 smaller shim, so hopefully running will seat things and it will be ok next check. Last time I checked my 99XX at 77k it was still in range and needed no adjustment. It has never needed a shim since new, but now has about 100k so it will be next.
  16. Haven't owned a bike that needed a valve adjustment until now. My 01 XX with 35k had a tight exhaust valve and I just finished reinstalling the cams, rolled the motor over 3-4 times and rechecked. Range is .19mm to .25 mm. Initial check was .19mm on one of the #4 EX valves-all others were good. With a micrometer the shim I removed is a 1.91mm Have a shim kit and the one that is in the 1.90mm compartment that shows 1.90mm on the shim, reads 1.86mm with a micrometer so that is the one I installed. After reassembling and rechecking I went from .19mm to 20mm. I did use a light coat of assemble lube on everything before reassembling and wondering if this could have anything to do with it. Not sure if I should trust my micrometer measurements on the shims that have been swapped or my post valve check?
  17. RC Randy


    Would you measure the amperage draw on it? I don't have meter at home to measure mA, but will try to bring one from work. Says <10mA, but I put mine on switched power so I didn't have to worry about battery drain.
  18. RC Randy


    nice find, thanks for posting, nice work mounting it too, how did you do it? Paul- Didn't take long Scribe mark on panel with tip of a Xacto knife around meter Dremel close to the scribe marks Use Xacto to shave panel until meter slides through Tack in place with thick CA glue Used black silicone around meter on back side Wire to 12V source-I used a connector inline so I can unplug it when needing to remove panel
  19. RC Randy


    Found these little compact voltmeters on Ebay for only $7.18 shipped direct from China. They are waterproof, come in different colors, and small enough, it is pretty easy to find a place to mount in your cockpit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171764710007?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=470716404364&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I had been using the Signal Dynamics LED meter that changes color at different values, but you never could see the exact fluctuations. I credit it to getting me home one day when the original stator quit on my 99 XX at 77K, and I was about 100 miles from home. It went red, I pulled over, pulled the fuse to the headlight and the bike cranked normally when I made it home. All my bikes will soon have these little Chinese meters, even my ZX14, because I don't usually have the display showing volts.
  20. I've never had a bad experience from Avons. The only time they have been taken off early is because of a puncture. They have all been different generations of the Storms, except for two sets which were the 3D Ultras, and I didn't like those because of the short life. Usually get about 8-10K out of the Storms, and it doesn't matter if they are on a XX, Busa, or ZX14. Looking at my maintenance records I have just mounted my 14th set of Avons, and they were the newer Storm 3D XM's going on my Busa. After about 2K miles so far, I can say I will repeat when it comes time to replace tires on one of my other bikes. I have tried 2 sets the PR 2's and liked those, and also two sets of Pirelli Rosso's, but only got about 5k before cords were showing. Obviously not the tire of choice here, and maybe I would change my mind if I didn't ride the flats most of the time.
  21. I've been using this to check cold cranking amps and find it to be a good indicator when I need a replacement battery. http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html
  22. I finally did mine over the winter. Had trouble getting wire bundles hot enough for solder to flow, so I ended up using a little propane pinpoint torch. Quick and was left with great solder joints.
  23. Might try this stuff if you have a hobby shop nearby https://www.aero-works.net/product/rubberized-ca/
  24. Didn't realize EBC made 3 ranges of pads, and the GPFAX is the track version. I've been using the HH sintered, and noticed these have the perforated metal on the back of the pad, where the other two don't. Anyone know the purpose of the metal? http://ebcbrakes.com/products/brake-type/
  25. EBC list them as "Race Only". How are they for street riding- longevity of pads and discs?
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