Clinton Horn

I have to come clean. Part of the rerason I had such difficulty was using the WRONG cable. Once I got both on backward and began trying to make the twist grip connection, it was apparent. I had so much practice with the wrong cable that finally getting the right one back in was really fairly easy. It is pretty humbling to acknowledge such a stupid mistake. Nevertheless, I don't want others to be intimidated by my bad experience. It really is not that bad with either method. Difficult but not impossible. The good news is that once it is seated, It would not come out by accident regardless of how much I twisted and looped the cable. There is a definite sequence to assembling these cables. One has to pivot on the hand grip. Hooking that up to the motor first makes threading the cable into the twist grip a real challenge. I did that wrong as well but I sure as hell wasn't goint to disconnect it (the hard one). It is the kind of thing that takes a long time to get right the first time. I'll probably forget everything before I need the knowledge again. I thought plugs in a V-6 front wheel drive car was a challenge. The Blackbird will make your cry for clearance

Mr. Badexample has the right idea. I used a piece of wood to hold open the throttle plates. Even though it rotates the hole farther down, it's still easier because it almost eliminates having to "loop" the cable. I just positioned the cable with one hand and pushed the end of the cable into the hole with a flat-blade screw driver. Don't worry, you'll figure it out.

Well after all the drama of adjusting the valves, installing the cams, placing the valve cover and failing to get the little 1/2 round gasket in the corner where the GD frame makes it impossible to see, I finally got the oil to stop spewing out of the cover. In doing so, I kinked the fuel line by raising the tank too high for access. If this happens to you and you are not such a purist that you have to have the factory squeezed hose, you can salvage the situation and ride the same day. Apparently in my area, fuel lines are too much of a liability to rework. I bought some readily available 8mm fuel hose (rated to 300 psi) cut the factory crimp off by splitting it longways with a dremel cut off wheel. Careful not to cut into the pipe on the banjo connections. Then I used 2 worm drive stainless clamps (known as radiator clamps in my part of the world) on EACH end, there is enough room.I figure the pressure is between 60-75#. In any case, it worked and I got to ride my bike after all the effort I put in. Runs great. I guess it was worth it in the end. I have repaired automobile fuel lines in the same way for the same reason ( stranded 200 miles from home). It went to the crusher with the same set up and never leaked. If it does not hold, I am no worse off unless it incenerates me.

The pulley that accepts both cables has a notch at about the 2 o'clock position if you look at the linkage from the left side of the bike. Rotating the butterflies open (clockwise) causes the connection to rotate deeper into the area behind the throttle bodies. It is one tough situation. Basically I am resigned to putting needle nose pliers on the cable and pulling enough slack up from beneath the pulley to put a 180 in the cable to engage it. The thing that is so frustrating is that no one else has been defeated (including the little guy that assembled it at the factory with some simple tool that I can't figure out.). It is almost like I have to kink it to get it in place. As it came out in good shape, I must assume there is a better way. I am thinking about making a drum with a notch across it and a lever to help me loop the cable without damaging it. When I grasp it with needle nose, it twists and springs every which way but what I need. I spent several hours with dental picks trying to do it without brute force but I am about to give up and get a bigger hammer.

Could some one please let me in on the procedure to re- attach the throttle cables to the throttle bodies? The one that OPENS the butterflies has me furious. I have twisted, poked , threaded the cable in from the rear. NOTHING will make that little drum go into the slot. No concern about access to the spot as tank, plastic etc are all off. I have taken them loose from the twist grip for more slack but still no go. Do I have to take the damn fuel rail and bodies completely off to get this thing in? What a PITA. There MUST be some trick otherwise it would be hundreds of $ in labor for a simple maintenance item. I thought timing the cams was bad but this is ridiculous.

I must be retarded. I spent ALL DAY getting the shims and cams back in. I had to install the exhaust cam three times before I finally got all three marks to line up. The damn chain has NO slack in it and I had to PRY the cam sprocket under the chain and than tie it down with the cover and bolts. I realize the chain must be snug but damn. The tensioner was fully retracted. I am sure there is a better way. I considered taking the chain off the drive sprocket but that looked to be an even bigger mess. The only consolation so far is that all are within .01 MM from spec. Thanks for the tip about the shims, I polsihed them down and used a mic to verify each one. If they are soft, I don't care. The next owner can change them if he wants to. I ran through several revolutions with a socket wrench and nothing is binding. I hit the starter and it spins freely. Rechecked the timimg marks and all is good. Now all I have to do is wedge that valve cover back in place. Probably spend another couple hours hooking up the throttle cables, hoses etc. THEN I have all of the plastic to get back on. I think I will go ahead and replace the headers that got mashed by a curb, replace the fork seals and probably the fresh OEM shock I have been hoarding for five years. All in all, if anyone can do this start to finish in one day, my hat is off to you. I have about 9 hours in it so far. If I do ever try try this again, I will definitely pull the motor and do the head too.

Thanks tomek, that is very helpful. I bought some red fingernail polish and I am going to mark the cam sprockets 40 ways from Sunday. Looks like I am not the only one who can see the alignment marks due to the frame. I see the zip tie to keep the chain taught and I will use that as well. Sanding shims by hand scrubbing on flat sandpaper? Novel idea. I will probably give it a try if I can't combine existing shims for proper clearance. I doubt you can case harden anything so thin. Since necessity is the mother of invention, I bet I will give it a try. Thanks again.

I have not been around for a while but I am in the process of some deferred maintenance on my 99 Blackbird. Mileage is 30600. I have the valve cover off and a Honda service manual. I have checked the clearances on all valves and I am going to have to pull the cams as several are at the limit and one is slightly past. My question: The manual breezes over the cam chain removal. It describes removing the cam sprockets if they or the cam(s) are to be replaced. I intend to do neither at the moment. Also, it appears to me that the motor would be easy to get 360 degrees out of time if not installed with the TDC AND the cam marks coordinated carefully. IE it is possible to get them both on the mark and still be 360 degrees out? I intend to mark EVERYTHING in an effort to get it back together properly. The marks on the cam sprockets are difficul(impossible) to see due to the frame. I do not see the pulse generator but it has to come out as well? Any help would be appreciated. For those interested #1 Exhaust both .23 mm Intake .16 outboard .13 inboard #2 Exhaust both .23 Intake both .15 #3 Exhaust both .23 Intake .13 left and .15 right #4 Exhaust left .23 right .18 Intake both .13 I wrestled with the valve cover for a while and suddenly, it just slid past the wiring and brake lines like butter. No idea how I turned it but it looks like getting it back in place without stripping the gasket will not be a picnic. No idea why the one exhaust is so much worse than the others. Bike is rarely ridden hard and 15-40 Delvac or Rotella is changed regularly at 3000 mi intervals. I am off to Sears for a new feeler gauge (just to make sure) and a torque wrench. I think my target will be .17 for intake and .23 for exhaust. Are all motors built with the same shim paks combination? Is it possible that I can strip .04mm out of the shim paks or do I have to remove them and start over with additional shims and a mic? Sorry I have so many questions. This is not proving to be "light maintenance". Still, it is a better alternative to new valves and possibly a head. Thanks-

I think today, most of the lower 48 would see 175 as soon as the key is turned on. Seriously, this has been beaten to death. You can find hundreds of responses about this. My bike has an analog gauge but I am guessing it runs about 220 "normally" On the road it settles down to 185-195. These motorcycles are notorious for running hot at low speeds. The damn frame will brand you on a day like today. The radiator is really a bit too small for parading but then that was never the intent. I have never seen anything close to hot at high speed. If you are considering changing coolant, stay away from "silicates" found in most anti-freeze. Even though I am a cheap bastard, the honda premixed anti-freeze is cheaper than a new waterpump, radiator etc.

I use this stuff http://www.obenaufs.com/ It makes gloves,shoes, etc much more flexible and seams to add some water repellancy. I have noticed that it causes the leather dye to bleed through onto your socks or hands. I have treated car leather and my Corbin. It is a waste of time on vinyl as it is not pourous. If you do use this or something like it, a hair dryer will accelerate the absorbtion into leather (or a day in the sunshine). Does not make the surface slick As for the Corbin, I estimate it cuts butt burn by 75%. It is very firm but I really appreciate it after 150 mile or so. IMHO

A lot of people who own these bikes drop them at low speed or manuvering around their garages etc. While this will not hurt you, a low speed tip over will break your heart (lots of plastic damage). The bike does not turn very much lock to lock. I imagine you have experienced this in other street bikes. I feel like it carries a lot of weight up high and it is very easy to tip once off balance. I am 260lbs and I have had to snatch it up off the floor once. It is a daunting task. I got very lucky with no damage. Think about where you park. Try to limit the amount of backing up (especially hills) and clutter around you. It will fall off either stand on a grade. The center stand manuver is cake if you get it down properly. I cannot add to the actual riding precautions that others here have advised. One thing, if you get boxed in on the highway, use the torque to escape to open ground. Downshifting is helpful but not necessary. I have never found anything that will keep up with it on a roll except another (large) bike.

Easy is a relative term. This is easier than a valve check, harder than a grip replacement. Search "Regulator/Rectifier. There is (somewhere) a detailed step by step how to with pictures on changing this part out. A common swap is to use a R/R from Yamaha (R1). They are available regularly on E-BAy. If you are really interested, do the research first. It takes a soldering iron, some spade connectors and electrical tape. The R1 unit is beefier but has one? extra wire that has to be identified and taped back. The second and third generation Honda units are better. The blackbird is somewhat of an orphan and parts are not as plentiful and tend to be pricey. There are lots of squids out there maiming themselves with R1's. I have one I got for $10 plus shipping. I am keeping it as a spare. This whole discussion is just one of many that have been beaten to the nth degree on this board. I don't think that you will find anything worth mentioning about this particular bike that has not been discussed at length .Collectively, we know our stuff

Thanks for the info...two questions... 1. Easy to fix? 2. What search words shoudl I use? I still don;t knwo what the rec thingy is...

We are talking about a small electronic box that converts the AC output from your bike's alternator into DC current that powers all the electrics and charges the battery. Your 97 has a first generation part that tends to fail (earlier) than the second generation which has cooling fins. Sometimes a blown bulb is just that. If you ride at night and you notice the lights fluctuating at any speed above 2000 rpm, then you may have a problem with the RR. These bikes have a "compact" alternator that really does not have much reserve. Summer riding with the fan running really takes about all of it's output. These voltage spikes are really hard on the solid state stuff and the ECU in particular. If the RR fails in the closed position, it keeps on making power and sending it all over the wiring harness. The voltage should not exceed 15 on the high side and can drop to 10 at idle with the fan on. You can check it with a volt/ohm meter. Some radar detectors monitor this as an added feature. As the bikes age, electrical failures become more common. I can't help you with the bulb size but don't tear into the electrical system because of a bad dash light. I did fit an aftermarket voltmeter to mine so that I would see a problem earlier than later. You can research this topic with the search feture. It has been well covered in this forum

I am hijacking this a bit but: My 99 is getting some miles on her (27,000) and to date I have had zero failures except CCT I see an unusual number of reasonable OEM parts on E-Bay at the moment Any thougts on when Honda will cease producing spares and start selling remaining inventory? Which parts that are high probability failures, not consumables like lamps,hoses, pads etc. I figure the aftermarket folks will keep those parts even if it is a niche market I have a few things squirreled away-mufflers (they are just too cheap to pass up), rotors,a 2003 shock, rear sproket, a set of NOT bent headers, and a Yamaha RR that I got into a electronic brawl with the Canadian seller who tagged me as a moron, ($14 including postage was worth the insult) I know some of you have enough to build another bike. I want to be reasonable. I would like to have a set of plastic but storage is dear and my attic would probably render them useless. "gobsil" used to post here and has a 2000 motor on e-bay yesterday for under $800. I hope he gets more but it would be great to have a spare motor (storage space again) for $800. I am not trolling for your parts or selling mine, just interested in what the consensus is for spares. There was a time when points (needed two sets) for my BSA were $35 / set and the timing advance that looked like it came out of a Cracker Jack box was $50 used. I want the knowledge to avoid that this time.

You can do either the front or back with some common tools. The Chinese tire irons for $5 a pair are the number 1 investment. A cardboard box to keep the rim safe is good. I use leather for rim protectors but plastic or cardboard will do. Take the wheel off, unscrew and remove the valve stem, do not try to bleed the tire with the valve stem in place. Take a "C" clamp and squeeze the sidewall till the beads fall to the center of the rim, repeat. After that work one side off. The other can be peeled off by hand. It is not easy work but it can be done. Place the tire on with the direction mark correct on top of the rim on top of the box. Watch to make sure the bearings / cush drive does not fall out. Work one side on at the time. When you fill the tire, leave the stem out as it will allow more air to rush in and seal the bead. You can reseat the stem after it seals. If air leaks, bounce the tire on the pavement several times. To balance, support the axel between two chairs or whatever you have and mark the point where the wheel settles to the bottom after 4 or 5 tries, you should have a good idea about the heavy spot on the rim. Cheap tires usually require more. I have heard that the green dot indicates the heaviest spot on the tire but I can't prove that. Put a small weight on the opposite 180 degrees and repeat. Probably take 15 minutes and it is static so it probably will not match a computer but I can't tell the difference. This is not for the faint of heart or couch potatoe, it will work up a sweat on you but you get it done when you want for practically nothing and if you are careful, it will be as good or better than a "dealer". These people are right about harbor freight and Northern tools etc but I can't house all of that stuff so I substitute muscle for equipment. I cannot stand to wait on another human being when I want to ride. P.S. the bead is reinfiorced with a metal hoop. It does not cut.

I will look here on e-bay for you. try the UK version too. Several guys here have successfully converted from analog to digital. I have analog and I prefer them. Just old school I guess. Rockmeupto125 is a regular on this board and stockpiles parts. Jaws is another guy in the UK. They have done lots of favors for folks here.They might be able to help. Working clocks might just inhibit your riding. You can legitimately say you did not have a clue how fast you were going. Sorry, I have no electrical skills. Some of these guys put resistors in their looms to convert sending units and all kinds of stuff. You just have to include nude pictures or beer facts in your posts to gain their interest.

We (North Americans) are secure in the knowledge that the world revolves around us. In the case of the CBR1100xx that is not necessarily so. Several model change features appear in the European versions BEFORE we got them here. Ebay is a source for either type of clocks. Usually they have a broken mounting tab or two but I see them occasionally for $100 or so U.S.

I appreciate the tips. I guess if it has not bothered me all this time, I should live with it but I keep staring at it trying to decide if it is my imagination. I don't think it is, so I will use your instructions. I am planning to do some winter service anyway. New shock oil, maybe springs and seals. As many have noted, the forks are not the best and I am no light weight.

I rode about 150 miles yesterday( I think everybody tried to get out) and it may be my imagination but after putting 15,000 miles on my bike, I believe the forks are twisted ever so slightly. I have never been down but it was a "rebuild" and was low sided before I got it. When I was a kid I used to foul the wheel of smaller Hondas and twist the handle bars to bring them straight. If the Bird is out, it is not by much. Any tricks to: 1. Determine if I am imagining things 2. Correct alignment without getting a lot of expensive equipment involved. Thanks

I would like someone to offer some basic knowlwdge on the XX alternator-R/R. What I think 1. The alternator appears to produce max output at about 2 thousand RPM. 2. The R/R converts AC current to DC AND regulates the amount of current that is allowed to charge the battery and or power lights fan, pump etc. 3. The amount of current produced by the alternator is subject only to RPM. Load has nothing to do with it. Excess capacity is wasted by grounding the output and producing heat. What I want to know. 1. If the alternator output is constant, why is a dead battery any harder on the R/R than a fully charged one? Are the diodes "stressed" by doing what they are designed for, ie converting AC to DC? Is the excess energy wasted as heat before or after it is converted to DC? If after, then the Rectifier portion of the device never sees any change (except RPM) 2. As for jump starting a motorcycle with a car. The car battery is much larger and has more ampacity. The current needed to roll the starter is a "demand" made on the battery not like a fire hose in that the system will only consume as much energy as necessary. It appears that some people assume that the jumper cables will allow massive amounts of current to enter the charging loop and fry the system. While I can see the potential, the only caution I can see is to make sure that the polarity is correct and there is no unintentional grounding. Does it matter that I am jumping the system with 10 amps or 100 amps as long as I make the correct connections? Since the borrowed current is already DC, the rectifier portion of the XX should be doing no work at all? I am trying to learn sound electrical properties not collecting wive's tales or things that a "neighbor told you"

I used to have a 650 BSA. It need 20-50 for the motor, 90-140 for the gearbox and I think it even ran something else for the primary. What a PIA. It leaked like a Harley and the clutch slipped till it got up to temp. I have never had a BMW (two wheels anyhow) but I cannot see the need to complicate things. Several guys on this board are serious into drag bikes and they can't even break the clutch, much less suffer oil failures from chunks of the clutch face lodging in oil galleries. I really think this bike is too good for some people. If you like to tinker, get something else. These are for piling on miles.

I buy em at Wal-Mart #6068 . Fits Miata and Maxima as well. They are $1.99 each. I have 25k on mine and no problems to date. They also stock a longer filter (fits older Maximas ) but someone pointed out that it is awfully close to the exhaust header. The short ones fit nicely. There is a very good article by an oil chemist about motorcycle filters. It has made the rounds on this board several times. Searh oil filters and I am sure you can find the link. If your going to buy Honda anyway, save yourself the trouble,

I have a spare R-1 for the same reason but consider this: If your stock regulator fails during the day, you probably won't notice till the battery is dead. I am from the east but I cannot see you making repairs in the desert with a screwdriver and some needle nose. If the bike is not trustworthy, make it so. If it happens at night, the chances of pulling this off are slim to McGyver. I added a voltmeter for insurance. These things usually start acting up before they fail. If they fail in the closed position they start putting some damaging voltage thru the ECU. If you see this coming you can shut it down before it fries a $600 part. I have a 99 regulator and it has a larger heat sink thn the R-1. But they are reasonable $10-25 and they (R-1) LOOK like they can handle more heat (load). Look under Yamaha parts on E-bay You definitely do not want to do this on the road. I travel with nothing and I know I should have basic tools but even a flat tire is too much to handle on the side of the road.

Of all the vehicles I have ever owned, only one was done in by an oil related failure. I had purchased it used and I did not know its service history. The pan was full of sludge and clogged the pickup screen. I run Rotella Syn because it is affordable and available. I will echo others here. Oil is a " blind" purchase. Your decision is based on what you read, hear, and previous experience. My XX is entertainment. I do not stress it as a competition motor might, but I am not going to tear it down every week to replace parts either. In that regard, I believe the experience of real world use is most reliable for recreational users. There was an interesting article In Bike about a courrier in UK that had put 400,000 miles on a first generation Bird and was on his way to wearing out a second. He changed oil every 3,000 miles with "car oil" but believed in Honda filters. I will wager that the oil you use is much more important to you than the motor. If one oil was vastly inferior to others, that mfg. would soon be sued out of existance right here in the good ol' litigious USA. As for endorsements, those racing enterprises would sell their mother for cash. The amount of wear on a racing motor is incredible. I would be inclined to think that the most humble grocery store oil would last 500 miles or 9 seconds. Flame away with facts not hear-say.