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Std shock is not -normally- a serviceable item. It can be done but it requires some modifications . Not sure if its worth it....

+1 here from the very other side of Atlantic. New dynojets are doing the job almost automatically. I can e-mail you my map, originally made by the operator but checked next year when the new utilities were available. It is for a K&N filter-o2 elimionator with Termignoni open slip ons (shouldn't be very different than Akrapovic).

Just curiosity... Is this factory fitted or after market? The (Euro) car brand I am employed, offers directional twin beam-single bulb HID. In this setup, there is a moving metal plate in front of the bulb which redirects the beam inside the lens (actually is like a restrictor in dipped beam). Also, there is not hysteresis when you flash the high beams with the lights of and the warm up period is very little (less than 10 secs). In the latest model, together with the HID comes an H7 bulb for high beam.

I don't agree about linear springs. I have experimented with the ZZR1200 linear springs (considerably higher rate than XX's) with corrected spacer length, and still was bottoming when braking over bumps. Also the ride height was increased and the ride wasn't comfortable. Don't go for the WP ones since their rate is about 5% higher than stock (and feels the same). The best setup I've found is the Hyperpro springs with Torco 10W oil at the Hyperpro recommended oil level. With lower viscosity oil, it is more comfortable over bumps but it dives faster over braking and it moves around. Also note that the SAE w rating doesn't represents the whole truth about fork oils. The number you should look for is the viscosity number and the VI (viscosity index). Check Peter Verdone's site for detailed specs on most fork oils.

It was a light Michelin Pilot Power 2CT with about 4000 km's, not bald but very soon to be replaced. I did that a few days later. The tyre had done two track days on my GSX R1000, so it was more than 50 % worn out to the edges. The chain and sprockets are in good condition. I figure the power on the Dynojet bench figures would have been slightly less with a heavy tyre or if the chain had been bad. The bike actually did a few more ponnies due to low humidity and high air pressure but was corrected to 152 hp at STD condition. The correction factor was 0.97 so the measured power was 156 to 157 rwhp. It may not sound a lot but I'm happy since it is far more than the modern 1000 RR bikes did a few years ago and I dont think all of them are on that level even this year. There was a GSX R1000 -07 that had been dynoed on the same dyno and the same operator the day befor, it produced 153 rwhp with slip-ons and a PC III. That sound a little low to me since they are claimed 180 hp on the crank stock. Blackbirds are about 152 hp on the crank stock, so the about 175 that it has now on the crank is not bad. With a sport tire, you get less hp because it is possible to overheat and start sticking (ok, a bit) to the rotating drum. With the OEM Dunlops , mine was about 147 RWHP, next year on Michelins Pilot power was 140.5. Some loss goes to the 1 year older chain, but I think that most of it ('bout 5 hp) was due to the tires.

R1000, what tire (type & condition) was on the Bird during the dyno tests? :icon_think:

UK mag Performance Bikes had a feature a few months ago with the XX-Haya-ZX14. All of them were between 256 to 258 kg (don't remember which was the 'lightest') full of fuel. So 258/0.45= 573.3..........33333333 lbs

Hi Michael I am almost sure that the springs you are running are not WP's. For more read here. Last week I was in Paris and one of my colleagues from Sweden was telling me that you have unusually hot winter. Enjoy your ride while it lasts...

I am sure you'll like it. Go for the progressive spring . Also instead of using shims you can have it whith the adjustable ride-height (of course it costs more). Only drawback is that if you want to adjust it, you have to remove the rhs silencer.

That is wrong way to do it,although it is common mistake.You can`t calculate spacer lenght by comparing free lenght of spring. Although I did the same with John (edited) when I experimented with ZZR1200 linear fork springs in the past, Tomek (edited) is right. The spacer represents the preload for the spring, so when you are using heavier spring whith the same preload your front end will ride higher (not to mention the quicker rebound). I tried to compensate by changing the position of the triple clamps but it would be better if I had cut the spacers shorter and then adjust the preload whith spacers. You can do calculatons, but at the end is a trial & error procedure.... :icon_doh:

...Aluminum alloy, i.e. no soft.

What Craig siad + I too put RT 1.0 in my XX. Yes cut the spacer match what was in the bike and dont forget the washers on both ends of the spacer too or the end condition of the spring will chew on the spacer. If you get it back together and check your sag and find it's not enough then you can easily (by opening ONLY one fork tube at a time) put some shorter spacers in to take some of the preload out or longer if you decide you need moe pre-load (cause you're getting too much sag) while they are on the bike. Clean, clean, clean. Make it clean. Lots of contact cleaner. My two cents. Washers are present only between spring and spacer, not between spacer and fork cup..... :icon_think:

By the way, here is a photo sequel changing oil & air filter on the Bird on my driveway (since my garage is for one car and very tight). The text is in Greek but if anybody finds it interesting, I could translate it..

+1, I have the habbit to overlube my chain and this part gets veeeery dirty. Put it back if you sell it.. PS: Tim , you are a brave man to admitt it openly. I wouldn't if you didn't

You are right Mike, if you don't try you won't know. I'll be waiting for your comments, I am curious if you observe anything similar whith the strada rear.

You will regret it. I've just sold yesterday my 4K miles Diablos for 70 Euros (bought them for 370 installed so everybody over there stop complaining about tire prices and wear and yes I know I've written that before :icon_hand: ). The rear was in its half but the front was about 2/3 of its life,but I couldn't stand them anymore because of : a)their 'slow' handling (especially the front) b)their tendency to self-inflate (mainly te rear) which shows excessive movement of the carcass (this is the main reason for a tire to get hot :icon_pray: ). I don't think thet match the XX well, maybe are better on a smaller, lighter bike. Moreover, the rear offers less traction than the Power or BT12&BT14 (ok the last one is good for only 1.5k) I used before. Instead, I put back my half-worn, siting for 3 months Powers. Probably, next set will be Powers 2CT. Don't know first hand about the stradas (and perhaps I never will)[attachmentid=4225]

Thanks for the help. I 've just checked both bulbs, the inner contcts (brake lights) have not continuity. I could swear that the inner filament was ok, only in bright daylight I noticed a tiny cut.

Both, so its not a brake switch ......... Oh, and I replaced front b/switch sometime before summer.

in my 03 bird. But both bulbs look good (which are plug-type), the wires inside are not cut. Fuses are ok. I have not checked continuity, but I have the feeling that the bulbs' sockets might be responsible (at the same time for god's shake?) Anybody else experienced the similar problem?

While I am not sure about the fireblade tail (which for sure adds lightnes), the paintjob is crazy. Will it look as good in mat blue. I've seen a Hornet 600 (599 to you) in original mat blue and it was awesome. :icon_think:

That graph looks identical to mine (I'll post it if I find it). By the way, what rear tire you used on the dyno?

That's what I wanted to read ..... but I am asking 'cause I feel guilty as well. However, I have a small problem whith idle. When I start the bike from cold, during warm-up and between 45 to about 60 (degrees celsius) water temp, the idle speed falls to 500-600 rpm. I am too lazy to check thw wax unit, but this happened after the addition and the mapping of the PC3. And I remember reading somewhere, that mapping the PC 3 on pgmF1 is quite difficult (because of the alternating std maps) Nothing that I can't overcome whith some throttle regulation, but I still feel guilty letting the engine idling this way. Any other ideas? :icon_think:

I was wandering how often should the fuel filter replaced on a FI bird. I cheked the manual (also asked manuel - ha) and couldn't find regular service intervals. So I figure that it has to be replaced when it is clogged. Also I was talking whith a friend about some problems about his 04 busa(1 cyl not running, idle hunting e.t.c.) and he told me that in his previous bike(97 Bird) had to synch the carbs every 6K. Is it anywhere close in the later injection bikes? I am now close to 20K and I have never checked the butterflies. :icon_think:

As you pressed the rear pedal, you activated the middle front pistons. Did you try to retract the pistons with the pads on (and with the aid of a screwdriver) . If this is not working, open the center bleed nipple and try again. Don't forget to attach a hose for the brake fluid. If this still doesn't works, tell us. We'll come up with something. :icon_think:

I have the H/pro shock but it is 4-way adjustable: rebound, ride height(from the lower mounting) and high and low speed compression (from the nitrogen bottle). I am very satisfied whith it, BUT even if you only change the spring I feel that you have to change fork springs as well (actually is the NO1 part that you have to change in the bird). Anyway, as i said before if i was leaving in US, I would definetely consider Penske as well like that if I was leaving in UK I would consider Maxton. Regarding stock shock with an a/market spring, it might be an improvement but definetely you cannot compare it with a complete a/market quality shock.