tomek

There are many ways to skin the cat but, apparently, fat trimming is volatile subject. 😁

Well, it seems even this forum is not immune to pussyfication engulfing entire country. 😁 I can't believe all the flak people are giving racer for that comment.

Well, try to remove engine in VFR12. In retrospect I should have dropped the engine on the ground, and lift the frame off the powertrain. V4 with shaft is 3-4 times amount of work required to remove vs inline 4 with chain. Epic pain in the ass. I had to fix jumping out 6th gear. Well known weak point of first two years of production. Next time I would flip bike upside down to work on gearbox.

Your face is red. Next time you are outdoors use sunscreen. 😜

"She"? 😆

They are not "voodoo". There work in logical, explainable way. The difference between those two above will be at very high throttle openings/high rpm. The one on right will get on main jet sooner. I'd say slide shape, location and size of holes in slides are way more on "voodoo" spectrum. 😁

Healthy. 120/75. 56 bpm resting.

Well, I predict 5 pages. 😁

Can you hook up multimeter to the motor, and drive around to see if it is powered when goes kaput? And if it doesn't get juice just work backwards of current path.

Yea, I was just gonna post it. Give it all good fashion whack.

Size of main jets has negligible effect on mpg unless you go WOT all the time. If bike pulls great at high loads, and you wanna improve mpg, attack pilot jet size and needle position, but leave mains where they are. I mean carburator like in xx has overlapping circuits that come into play at certain loads and rpm. Size on main jets is the most important in 80-100 percent of the load, but gradually goes to zero at idle and near idle speeds and loads.

I need head strap to prevent my head from blowing up.

I need head steering damper.

What is the theory behind different mains, wouldn't outside cylinders run little cooler? Different length velocity stocks?

I could, probably, fix it in one Saturday. Except I'm way back on my projects as is, and, 1000+ miles away 😁 Probably 1000 bucks for parts, like 100 bucks for seals and bushings, brake pads, front rotor could probably be salvaged with elbow grease, chain+sprockets like 250, send rear shocks for rebuild. There is always more in parts vs. casual estimate,,,,,but 1000 would, probobly, do it.

Also, if diameter is about the same at the top, shorter will richen mixture at heavy loads, might not be a bad thing.

What about diameter at the top, thick part of the needle? Same? The difference at the other end might not matter much, it comes into play when you are between 60-90 percent of the load. 100 percent is all about main jet. Also, does longer needle is still in tube when slides are fully open? Last question, is that strictly needle replacement, or you are installing full jet kit, different jets, etc? If answer is yes those needles are designed to work with jet kit, they should be OK.

Classic Zero. No need to elaborate.

No clue and/or memory how rebar ended up in my garage. But the bar is still perfectly straight, but I would not sit on the bike. Bike is actually very stable with set up like in the pictures. Just to make it clear, I loosen all bolts first except, of course, upper triple tree, with bike still on kick stand. I do have couple front stands, but with entire front end off not possible to use them.

Well, in top picture right next to jack you see red lid of ice box. You know why was there. Flat fat ass screwdriver will do as as bearing removal tool. First get spacer loose by punching screwdriver between it and bearing, push it to the side, it is all golden from there. I do have set of bearing drivers, but yea, old one bearing will do it as well.

Speaking of Rust-Oleum. This is funny. Here is my dispatch for tomorrow. First stop Rustoleum in Waupun Wisconsin. Not making this up. 😂.

Forgot to mention. Fresh fork fluid. I'm always amazed after fluid change how more compliment, less harsh, front end feels. Gotta do track bike as well. Can't tell the difference between Ohlins comparable weight and Maxima. Later is easily available and way less expensive. That.

It is not urethane, or no hardener, so I don't have much faith in it in case of brake fluid spill, etc. Lacquer type of paints are not the most durable kind although it did say "brake caliper paint" on the can. 😆 I'll just respray offending areas if something happens. It is not like color blend on the hood of your car where it has to be done perfectly to not be noticable. And, no wheels. Only because I'm not really good with them. 😂 The difference between getting OEM bearings from Honda and getting quality bearings from reputable supplier was not worth for me the effort. 16 bucks per bearing. Free shipping. 6205UU.

Safety, obviously, third. OSHA not allowed in my place.

Steering on my viffer has developed "stiff spot" right in the center, of course. Obviously it was time for new bearings, races, etc. 85 K miles. Once I was doing that, and everything was off the bike anyway, decided to give fresh rattle can job for calipers, fork bottoms and upper triple tree. Flat automotive Rust Oleum black. Calipers started with, well, brake caliper paint, but it was too shiny for my taste so after first coat I switched back to that flat black. Oh, fresh front wheel bearing as well. There was nothing wrong with old ones, preventive maintenance I guess. All Honda OEM parts because All Balls and eBay are incredible chinesium garbage. Also, I tossed Bridgestone RS11, take off with about 1 k miles, that I happened to be laying around my garage.