Red J Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 I lost my master link today, on deceleration. Packed the chain into the front sprocket, cracking to bits the sprocket cover and some parts of the crankcase (where the cover bolts up...) The clutch is frozen up, such that you can't kick it out of gear. The lever feels like a rock. Will post photos of the carnage in a few days. Adding insult to injury, I am away from home, and had to get it towed today at the cost of 110 bucks. I can not find the page where the front sprocket cover is shown, in the parts catalog. I am hoping that the cover bolts on to another part, and not the crankcase directly. I have the sinking suspicion that I am fucked, and shopping for a replacement engine. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 Here you go... http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/200_0351/wat..._pump_98_03.cfm BTW , sorry to hear about your problem. Membership in the HRCA, could have saved you the tow bill... Was the masterlink clip or riveted ? Good luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poida Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 gday j red.i had a master link fail on my bike a few years ago due to incompetant fitting by a honda dealer.chain pretty much got spat out the back at 170 kph.on the way it cracked the sprocket cover which holds something to do with the clutch.the cover isn,t to expensive to replace .the chain also punched a hole in the crankcase above the sprocket where the cover bolts on.unless youve done some internal damage you will probably get away with replacing the cover and having the crankcase welded .make sure the welder knows his trade well as its important to use the right heat and filler rod.that can be done with the engine in place.all up you might be able to get away with it only costing $200 to $300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 Damn, sorry to hear that. How did you keep from wrecking? I also want to know what kind of masterlink you had and the mileage on the chain. I've heard a lot about JB weld but never tried it. Did any oil come out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted April 17, 2004 Share Posted April 17, 2004 feels likeThe clutch is frozen up, such that you can't kick it out of gear. The lever a rock. Slave cylinder could be messed up and lifter rod bent.Remove slave cylinder put in neutral and start the engine.Is it spitting oil thru the lifter rod? Seal may be busted.Spocket cover is just a cover,you could ride without one but slave cyl has to be properly attached to the engine case. Good alum. welding shop should be able to fix it. Years ago socket from the tool kit somehow got wedged between front sprocket and chain on my FJ1200-similar damaged. I had to replace clutch lifter rod with seal and visit welding shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Thanks for the replies. I rented a U-Haul and took it home, about 200 miles from where it broke down. I replaced the CCT a few weeks back, and I kinda noticed the chain making noise after the engine was quieter. According to the maintenance log, it was on there for 12k, but only two of those thousands were mine. In retrospect, the chain was throwing me plenty of warnings, I was just not listening. Well, it has my attention now. I will be much more wary (weary? LOL...) of chain health. BTW, it was a DID 50VM. I would have, and will replace it with a 530DVM. Will get into it next weekend, and see how bad it really is. It is obvious that the crankcase has some damage, but it appears limited to the sprocket cover/clutch mount attachment bosses. It's also pissing coolant on the ground. Will post photos as well, I'm spent right now. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Again, thanks for all of the replies. Wichita has a ton of aircraft fabricators (Learjet, Beechcraft, Boeing and Cessna all in town), and I know someone who is really good with TIG and gas, on aluminum. I will send a little prayer to the Honda gods tonight. Hopefully, I have all of the pieces to put this mother back together. The masterlink is MIA. I assume it was clip type, but I can't verify that for sure. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 I assume it was clip type, but I can't verify that for sure I would guess you'd notice while lubing it, which brings my next question- how often did you lube it? Just curious, as I like to know why shit happens, so I can keep it from happening to me :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 I was religious about doing the lubing every 500, and cleaned it every 1k. But that was for the last 2k, I don't know how it was taken care of before I got it. The rest of the bike looks very nice, so perhaps it was well lubed before, too. I never noticed the master link while lubing, perhaps it was riveted on. I never went looking for the link, though. Yeah, part of the reason for this post was to maybe drive home the idea that the chain caused me some issues, and that you other guys may well benefit from my mistakes... I do consider myself fortunate to not have laid it down, crashed, etc. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warchild Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 I will be much more wary (weary? LOL...) of chain health. BTW, it was a DID 50VM. Maybe I read the thread too fast, but I'm suprised no one has mention yet that you had the wrong chain on the bike. And it is generally understood that one should only use a staked (endless) chain on this bike, not a master-link variant. As to whether this was a contributor to your breakage, one can only speculate. I would have, and will replace it with a 530DVM. Um.... you should prolly make that a 530ZVM chain.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Maybe I read the thread too fast, but I'm suprised no one has mention yet that you had the wrong chain on the bike. And it is generally understood that one should only use a staked (endless) chain on this bike, not a master-link variant. As to whether this was a contributor to your breakage, one can only speculate. While I agree with you, the Honda dealer in Kansas City (where I broke down) was trying to sell me a 50VM for the bike, is what he claims was listed in the parts book. The other dealer (also Honda) tried the same thing. The Suzuki dealer, which was closer, had a 530ZVM 110L in stock, but was missing the master link. If the previous owner was not as critical of what parts went on his motorcycle, I can imagine that whatever Honda wanted to sell him is what went on. Um.... you should prolly make that a 530ZVM chain.... Yes, that is what I meant to type. I plan on going with the better chain, no doubt about it. - J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Not to bust on you, Warchild, but I use a chain on my bike that has 2 master links (no o-rings either..) One to remove a short section of chain when going from strip to street to remove a few inches of length from 68" down to 64".. There are some tricks to making clip-type master links work, but I have done it for over a decade & a half with no issue ever.As far as the clutch cover, hit me with a PM when you have surveyed the damage. I just swapped to a cable clutch, I would part with mine for cheaper than new. (Clutch, slave, rod) Thank you for the offer, I know I will need the sprocket cover, and maybe the clutch slave pieces as well. Will PM you when I get it torn down. As far as the debate for masterlinks, I plan on going with the rivet type, and buying the tool for it (Motion Pro? Need tips here...). I am not really interested in buying a 110 link endless chain and removing my swingarm... Much thanks guys. I truly hope that case isn't FUBAR. I wasn't going to fiddle with it today, but I think that I won't quit thinking about it until I see more. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdie_xx Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 but was missing the master link. YOu can buy the masterlink for few bucks. Chains used to come with the clip masterlinks only, and you had to buy the rivet link separate. Just to give you an idea, from Tucker-Rocky catalog ( available through your local dealer - only !) the DID 530ZVM X-ring chain, 110 links, p#12-2557 - MSRP $167.70. The rivet master link for that chain p# 12-2551 - MSRP $7.90 So if that dealer had a good price on the chain, just order the link. MAW has it for $126 (before the bull charges they'll add :roll: ) Chaparral is out of stock at the moment but they have it at $ 128.70 http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...4F962153A5A55C0 Master link http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...4F962153A5A55C0 Good luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted April 18, 2004 Author Share Posted April 18, 2004 Appreciate the info on the chain. DTMA has it for 103. Are they all missing masterlinks? I broke the seal on their box, and it wasn't present. No matter, the Suzuki dealer wanted retail. I knew that DTMA had it for a lot less, and I didn't really think it was that necessary. I did buy a 50VM masterlink, in the hopes that I could repair it that nite. Looks like the case is pretty damaged. I believe that it may take some fabrication, in addition to welding, to get this done. This has me wondering if I should consider parting the bike out. www.reddout.com/CBR/index.htm J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_bucher Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 Hey, I just went through this problem... All of my sprocket cover bosses were busted out but the crankcase was intact (no leaks) The clutch lifter rod was also bent and the water pump hose just in front of the sprocket cover had a small hole - this is your coolant leak. The bosses were all broken clean off but I was able to drill and tap new threads into the remaining material - down at least 1/2 inch but not much more depending on conditions. I replaced the cover mounting bolts with longer bolts and covered the gap between the bolt head and new cover with lock washers The whole job was not difficult because I used the new cover as a template for the new hole locations and the cover allows a little bit of slop when realigning the necessary components. The water pump hose is fairly easy to replace - remove the gas tank and use soapy water when sliding the new hose on... Let me know if you have any more questions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted May 6, 2004 Author Share Posted May 6, 2004 My waterpump is cracked. The hardline coming out of it is where the crack and leak are springing from. I am planning to replace the engine case set. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grey_XX Posted May 6, 2004 Share Posted May 6, 2004 Not sure if it has anything to do with the mishap but the 50vm is rated for 9700lbs of tensile strength whereas the 530 zvm is 10400. In any case, that sucks. Hugo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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