egadrotu Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 OK, I looked in the shop manual and it gives the thread dia. for the rear axle bolt as 18mm. Looking at the 18mm socket at the store, I can't see it fitting. I know I am ignorant, but what size socket do I need to loosen the rear wheel for a chain alignment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jetpilot5 Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 27mm should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXMAN Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 I have a 98 and if I remember right the socket is 18mm for the nut and 23mm for the axel. someone correct me if i'm wrong. I will double check when I get off work and post it tonight if different. :bike: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickcbr1100 Posted March 23, 2004 Share Posted March 23, 2004 The actual axle thread diameter is 18mm but metric spanner/socket sizes are the width across the nut flats which as Jet Pilot says is 27mm and 22mm for the chain side. FWIW you probably will never need an 18mm spanner or socket as it isn't used in standard engineering, that's why some smaller sets miss it out, but saying that there's always the smart ass manufacturer who tries to fuck you up and add one :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXMAN Posted March 24, 2004 Share Posted March 24, 2004 They are correct 27mm for nut and 22mm for axle. Happy wrenching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted March 24, 2004 Share Posted March 24, 2004 1 1/16" works just as well, too. Might be easier to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egadrotu Posted March 24, 2004 Author Share Posted March 24, 2004 Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted March 24, 2004 Share Posted March 24, 2004 1 1/16" works just as well, too. Interestingly enough... it was cheaper, too. Don't forget to use a torque wrench on it when tightening it down. Someone have the spec handy? I'm at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edward Posted March 27, 2004 Share Posted March 27, 2004 Or if working with the metric torque wrench, "93nm". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 man, just tightened my chain... my left side notches are ate the #$@^ up. Notice they have a slight slant in the notches toward the back, making it hard to get them absolutely perfect. Anyone have any advice for super perfect alignment (cheap, that is)? P.S. I know this is an old post, had to search to find the mm size of the nuts and the helpful foot/lbs conversion. Thanx for that, btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Don't forget to use a torque wrench on it when tightening it down. I just use the 2 fingure hurts method... when the wrench starts hurting 2 fingures... then it's tight enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 man, just tightened my chain... Â Why tighten the chain... if it ain't hitting the center stand... leave it alone. :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Because the numbnuts mechanic that put the new one on (within 200 miles) left it at the old setting from the last chain that had 14k on it... excessively loose and the meter was deep in the red "replace chain". Got it to specs, it's all the way on the other side now... Going to have a little talk with senor mechanic.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 It is very easy to obtain 'perfect' alignment of the rear wheel, assuming that your chassis is square. The device you need is called an adjustable trammel set. You can make your own but it's easier to just buy them from Starrett. You should do this procedure each time you remove the rear wheel or make a radical change in the adjustment length such as a new chain. Trammells are a pair of clamps fitted with adjustable length needles, about 5" long fitted so the needles are at 90 degrees to the bar they clamp on. One needle is fixed, the other is ground off center providing about 1/4" of adjustment of distance between the two needles by turning the needle. Get a chunk of 1/2" conduit or something rigid of similar size. I use a piece of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock. Needs to be longer than the distance between your swing arm pivot and the axle center line. Remove your mufflers and any bracketry that is in the direct line. Now place the fixed needle into the center of the swing arm pivot on either side of the bike. Adjust the clamp position and finally the spinning needle tilll the rear needle is centered on the rear axle. You don't have to be level here but, it is easiest to work with if the needles are adjusted for length such that the bar is parallel to the long axis of the bike. Now go to the other side and flip the assembly over so the fixed needle is still in the swing arm pivot bolt. Adjust the chain adjusters till the adjustable needle is again in the center of the axle. Both the swing arm pivot bolt and the axle have center holes in them making this a simple process. A couple of times back and forth and you will have perfection. Proper chain tension and a perfectly square back wheel. A little bit of time with a tubing bender and you could even make a little jig that would negate the need to remove the mufflers. I have used this system to get the back wheel in line on all my drag bikes and a couple of 200 mph top speed bikes. Never failed yet. Don't forget, your tool box needs farkles too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Hmmm, Crescent wrench, 440 channel locks, and 1 eyeball. Works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 It is very easy to obtain 'perfect' alignment of the rear wheel, assuming that your chassis is square.The device you need is called an adjustable trammel set. Â You can make your own but it's easier to just buy them from Starrett. Â You should do this procedure each time you remove the rear wheel or make a radical change in the adjustment length such as a new chain. Trammells are a pair of clamps fitted with adjustable length needles, about 5" long fitted so the needles are at 90 degrees to the bar they clamp on. Â One needle is fixed, the other is ground off center providing about 1/4" of adjustment of distance between the two needles by turning the needle. Get a chunk of 1/2" conduit or something rigid of similar size. Â I use a piece of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar stock. Â Needs to be longer than the distance between your swing arm pivot and the axle center line. Remove your mufflers and any bracketry that is in the direct line. Â Now place the fixed needle into the center of the swing arm pivot on either side of the bike. Â Adjust the clamp position and finally the spinning needle tilll the rear needle is centered on the rear axle. Â You don't have to be level here but, it is easiest to work with if the needles are adjusted for length such that the bar is parallel to the long axis of the bike. Now go to the other side and flip the assembly over so the fixed needle is still in the swing arm pivot bolt. Â Adjust the chain adjusters till the adjustable needle is again in the center of the axle. Â Both the swing arm pivot bolt and the axle have center holes in them making this a simple process. Â A couple of times back and forth and you will have perfection. Â Proper chain tension and a perfectly square back wheel. A little bit of time with a tubing bender and you could even make a little jig that would negate the need to remove the mufflers. I have used this system to get the back wheel in line on all my drag bikes and a couple of 200 mph top speed bikes. Â Never failed yet. Â Don't forget, your tool box needs farkles too. Poor man's version- a piece of good stiff wire and a zip-tie Anything that says Starret on it probably won't be cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 They are Starrett part # 50A and go for about $55 bucks at your local Grainger store, or MCS. Mine are about 30 years old so I payed a bit less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpha Crow Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 thx shovelstroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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