runner Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 The sage continues. After replacing the seals/ cleaning everything... the brakes stick On The Interstate on the way to work. (I had tested it for 20+ miles previously & they were working great). No way to pull over without being hit...so I ride to work. The rear caliper is literally smoking & pads are toast. Ughhhh. Anyways, I will relieve the pressure (bleed screw) & ride home with no rear brakes today. Time to delink... What is the easiest/most effective way? (The delink 'link' appears to cut off in mid-conversation on the topic). Recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXBirdSlapper Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Did you ever disassemble the master/secondary cylinders and verify that brake fluid can infact return to the reservoir? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 I will plead ignorance, should I will pull the MC off behind the seat cowling & check the return bleed hole? (I had trouble finding this return hole during the previous full flush). Recommendations on how to check the secondary return? Frustration.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) The secondary master cylinder is on the left fork leg. Pull it off, clean it, and then re-bleed the system. Or you can buy a 2-line front brake hose kit, and spend about the same amount of time doing the De-link. Except for drilling the center piston in the front calipers. I actually ran mine for a couple years without the center piston, and didn't notice much difference in braking power, but I hardly ever touched the rear, so....... And you can keep using the stock front master cylinder. Since you have already had them apart, I would go for the full de-link, and drill the hole. I'd say about 10-15% more stopping power. You will need a bigger master cylinder for the full de-link. A later model CBR600F4 has one that looks exactly like the Birds, but has a 3/4" piston. I tried a 14mm piston master from a VTR1000, but it was still a little mushy for my tastes, and I didn't like the remote plastic reservoir. The one rear brake hose going to the proportioning valve can be looped back to the rear master, so no need to buy new hoses for the rear. Hopefully, someone can find the detailed de-link thread for you. I suck at searching. Post up here, if you need any advice. Edited March 19, 2015 by jon haney 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I made my own lines by ordering pre made lengths,Goodridge,Russel, both make them.Add ends,couple T connectors,double banjos.Ran 2 lines off the m/c,split both into 2 more running down to each caliper.Somewhere I have pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Curious...anyone try the Jaws delink kit? It appears to be complete and recommended by the 'other' CBXX Forum members. Based in UK yet will ship to USA... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02 SilverBird Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 CK to see if the flex hose in the rear is clogged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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