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Vern......Talk to me


RXX

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OK.. so I had just a little time to do some research, but didn't find all the answers I wanted...

1. How many Watts or Amps of extra power does the Birds Charging system make over it's basic requirments to operate propperly ? Answer.. about 110 watts, or about 9 amps.

2. How many Amps was the stock Regulator Rectifier rated for ? The nearest I can figure is about 12 amps. or about 144 watts. (However I'm Not sure about this)

In this configuration.... the Bike should charge great.. and realistically the R/R should last a nice long time.

However, once you start decreasing your electrical consumption... you may go over what your R/R was designed to handle, actually, it's extremely easy to do just that anymore, with all the highly efficient LED lights for everything.

So lets say you Save another 100 watts by changing all your lights out to LED's, Headlights, Taillight, and running lights. If you did that, then your R/R is going to be constantly trying to disipate 210+ watts, or about 17 amps.

So I wonder how long a 10 amp reglator will last that's trying to constantly burn uo 17 amps.

Maybe a good idea is to install a 20 amp R/R.

I believe that what this one is...

http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm


PS... Vern. I'm not going to say you were wrong... but what I am going to say is... WE are constantly learning here, Both of us. So have a good day.

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EVLXX wrote:

PS... Vern. I'm not going to say you were wrong...

It's OK.......I deserve it! I was so intent on stating what I know that I thought YOU were wrong. Problem is......I just didn't know enough! Could have used my ex-wife for this conversation.........she knows everything! :D

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God damn. Sorry I asked. Never mind......

OH No you don't.....

You asked what are the Pro's and Con's, which lead to this nice big discussion about a possible contrasting side effect of using LED bulbs, and in the process.... a Lot of people LEARNED something about their motorcycles.

So... Good Job. This has been a great thread. Thanks.

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You asked what are the Pro's and Con's, which lead to this nice big discussion about a possible contrasting side effect of using LED bulbs, and in the process.... a Lot of people LEARNED something about their motorcycles.

So... Good Job. This has been a great thread. Thanks.

+1

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Ok first, I just looked at this thread.

Second, great info and conversation.

I been drinkin,,,,,,

Not gonna get into the tech now or a dissertation.

Cause.

I was under the impression, and told Eric, that the field current was all that was shunted, so the electromagnet side of the alternator was defeated hence reducing the magnetism of that side and reducing the load and power generated ......

If it ain't is should be.

rebuttal?

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OK... I think I've concluded my research in this area, after finding this thread on an Aprilia Forum.

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?240785-Facts-about-shunt-based-regulators

Yes I read the whole thing... not scanning it.. read it...

I now think... I like the way my Bike is set up, I like my MOSFET shunt regulator....

and I have work to do around the house.... so have a good day.

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Yeah, errr no fn way. Total waste of time and money. High beam less than low beam HID's.

Make you a screamming deal on some LED head lights.

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Ok, having just upgraded my headlight bulbs from stock to Osram 65w @ 12v, they are rated at 2100 lumens, where most 55w stockers run approx 1500lumens, im very happy. H9 burner on H7 base makes for long life on a hotrod bulb. My brother just ordered a Cyclops H4 Led for his enduro, its rated at 3600 lumens! I looked them up and H7 is listed at 2400 lumens. The H4 are 20w leds w fans. A little more research led to a 60+ page thread over on adv rider. The H7 is $50. Im slightly interested now. But am wondering how hard it would be to convert to H4 on the bird. Mine has some sort of adapter that the H7 plugs into that goes into the housing. Would an H4 just plug directly in the housing if that adapter was not used?

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Update, thought about it and was not happy with the way the lights were orientated in the housing. the Cree chips were vertical and the headlight reflector is horizontal pattern. So I cut some new index tabs and rotated the bulbs and... perfection.

Not HID bright mind you. but great.

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Not HID bright mind you.

OK. still trying to wrap my head around why yo went from HID's to LED's.

Standard Bulbs uses 55W and puts out 1200-1800 Lumens. OK. (Start up 15amp, running 4.5amp)

Then there's HID...

35W DDM units use a claimed 60W on Start-up and 40W running and puts out 3000 Lumens (However they also claim on their website that the standard 35W unit use, Start up 6 amp, running 4 amps which is a little higher than the above wattage claim)

and

55W DDM which put out a claimed 5000 Lumen, aren't given power usage numbers on the DDM website, however I was able to find where a guy actually tested the units power draw himself using a scope and he measured start up at 13.6 amps and running at 4.6 amps for the 55W units.

Now there's the LED's

1800 Lumen, Start up 2.2 amps, running 2 amps.

Now the only thing I found that's significantly different from the 55W standard Bulbs power draw, in comparison to the 55W HID unit's power draw, is that the Start up amperage and duration.... see here...

http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

SO.....

Chew on that and let me know how it tastes.

My thoughts...

Standard... same old same old.

LED... Sweet. but not spectacular flavor, almost the same old same old.

HID... Sweet and Sour, with spectacular Flavor.

edited to add the Link to the HID osilloscope test.

Edited by EVLXX
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I had the solder on the start button (headlight disconnect side) turn loose twice and lost my headlights. Without knowing the above feared that with the HIDs starting to fire up and hitting the start switch that the load was to much at that time and heating the contact enough to cold solder the wire.

Still, went with leds turned 90 on the low beam, and HIDs on the high beam. We will see if the wire problem was that I did not get the base hot enough last time to really stick good. Think I did this time, but I always think I do things right.

Sorry If I pooped in your thread Vern and Phillip.

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I had the solder on the start button (headlight disconnect side) turn loose twice and lost my headlights. Without knowing the above feared that with the HIDs starting to fire up and hitting the start switch that the load was to much at that time and heating the contact enough to cold solder the wire.

Still, went with leds turned 90 on the low beam, and HIDs on the high beam. We will see if the wire problem was that I did not get the base hot enough last time to really stick good. Think I did this time, but I always think I do things right.

Sorry If I pooped in your thread Vern and Phillip.

Are you kidding me, Stan?? This is GREAT!

The whole reason I started this is that most of you don't know this, but I have a modulated high beam. I am still on the original bulb (15 years and 78+ miles) and sooner or later that Honda POS is gonna fail. And it is out of warranty. I am just looking ahead for a replacement. I figured an LED might handle the modulation better.

And Stan, people are learning here. We are all climbing the same mountain. Almost to the top, and who is there waiting on us? Why, you, of course!

post-1606-0-86164500-1404481535_thumb.jp

Edited by RXX
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I had the solder on the start button (headlight disconnect side) turn loose twice and lost my headlights. Without knowing the above feared that with the HIDs starting to fire up and hitting the start switch that the load was to much at that time and heating the contact enough to cold solder the wire.

Still, went with leds turned 90 on the low beam, and HIDs on the high beam. We will see if the wire problem was that I did not get the base hot enough last time to really stick good. Think I did this time, but I always think I do things right.

Sorry If I pooped in your thread Vern and Phillip.

Stan, it takes more time than the startup period for the switch to unsolder itself. The only reason it gets that hot is because the contact resistance is too high for the load current. Unless the bike has some extra load causing the heating, the switch contacts just need to be dressed up and lubed.

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yeah Mike my thoughts are that while that headlight is starting up I hit the starter switch disconnecting it and then the bike starts and when I let off button it is in the middle of the startup and the load might be extra high

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