Zero Knievel Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 My power steering pump needs replacement. I'll have to look for leaks because it went from never needing fluid to suddenly running dry (hope it's not the rack and pinion...that's been replaced already). My question is that if it's just the pump that's gone bad (190K miles), do I have to flush the whole power steering system or just top off once the new pump is on? Likely it won't matter. I fear the R&P will need to be replaced. And, oh joy, I just discovered my radiator is leaking. FML Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 I would say if the fluid that is in the line once it is taken apart looks clean then just top it off. If the fluid is shitty looking and the pump has trash in it the yes flush the system. What kind of radiator is it metal or plastic? How bad is it leaking and from where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 I would say if the fluid that is in the line once it is taken apart looks clean then just top it off. If the fluid is shitty looking and the pump has trash in it the yes flush the system. What kind of radiator is it metal or plastic? How bad is it leaking and from where? Can't tell. When we replaced the R&P, the fluid it came with was black. Once that mixed there was no way to tell if fluid was clean or not. I'm pretty sure the radiator is metal. Not sure if it was ever replaced before. Don't know how bad it is leaking, but the drippage is all over the bottom of the shield under it, but obviously it's not running dry. Likely one or more holes anywhere halfway up it. That's what happened in my last truck. It may be fixable, but for the mileage, I'm sure replacing it with new would be less of a hassle. I just don't need all of this. 2012 is turning out to be 100% suck...and the elections aren't even here yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 No body is going to run with this? Power steering pump on your XX? Is the blinker fluid low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 No body is going to run with this? Power steering pump on your XX? Is the blinker fluid low? For the clueless...this is my pickup truck, not the XX. :icon_doh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 PS pumps are pretty durable, you can run them dry and they still function once you fill them back up. I've worked for Nissan for 7 years and we have replaced a grand total of one PS pump since I've been here (and I sell all the parts to the technicians, and check in the orders, so I would know.) Also, if there is no fluid, there is a leak, it doesn't just burn off. As far as the radiator goes, you can probably get one in the $100 range, dependent on vehicle. Check around though, as pricing can vary widely (we're talking $80-up aftermarket, to damn near $600 for a factory one.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanix Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 On my truck, if you replace the rack and pinion there is a need to cycle the steering (if I remember, full movement left and right off the ground at a certain rpm like 2000). If this is not done, air is trapped in the system and it will eventually gas out and leave you with a low power steering fluid level. If your rack was recently replaced and it needed to get the bubbles out, you may just need to refill and carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 On my truck, if you replace the rack and pinion there is a need to cycle the steering (if I remember, full movement left and right off the ground at a certain rpm like 2000). If this is not done, air is trapped in the system and it will eventually gas out and leave you with a low power steering fluid level. If your rack was recently replaced and it needed to get the bubbles out, you may just need to refill and carry on. R&P and pump were replaced several years ago, and we did the bleed thing. Started the truck last week and there was his horrendous noise for about a second. Not long after that, the pump started the grinding noise. Did it yesterday as well when I got home. The missing fluid had to go somewhere, I hope I have no hassle figuring out where this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Well, can't find a leak anywhere. Fluid doesn't just disappear for no reason. I figure I'll need to drive it about for a week until I notice more is missing and see if there are signs of fresh leakage. Took the radiator off, but only shop that fixes them is closed until Monday. If it can be fixed, why replace it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Because by the time you get it fixed, it might have been cheaper to replace it. Around here, it's $80 to have a radiator rodded, top and bottom tanks and seals replaced (or sides depending on your radiator design), and any leaks patched up. I spent $110 and got a brand new radiator with a 3 year warranty. Captain Obvious on why I replaced the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Because by the time you get it fixed, it might have been cheaper to replace it. Around here, it's $80 to have a radiator rodded, top and bottom tanks and seals replaced (or sides depending on your radiator design), and any leaks patched up. I spent $110 and got a brand new radiator with a 3 year warranty. Captain Obvious on why I replaced the radiator. Good point. I'll keep that in mind when I have it checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Hey zer0netgain...loosen the clamps on the boots on the end of the rack and pinion and see if the fluid is going in there. Sometimes it'll fill the boots and not leak for awhile! Just a thought... Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Hey zer0netgain...loosen the clamps on the boots on the end of the rack and pinion and see if the fluid is going in there. Sometimes it'll fill the boots and not leak for awhile! Just a thought... I've checked everything and found no evidence of a leak. I think the fluid level is going down...slowly. It's at a point where I can measure it from the top of the reservoir (15/16"). The so-called "dip stick" is useless on the pump. If it keeps going down, I know it's coming out somewhere. Since the pump is mounted in a frame that holds it, maybe it's leaking out at the drive pulley, but dripping down in a spot you never see it. I've not seen any evidence of leakage from the R&P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OMG Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Must be a Ford, my toyota has 260k and I replaced the clutch bracket, ummmm brakes too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 top it off with brake fluid. Will cause the seals to swell and stop the leak seriously put a piece of cardboard under the truck in the evening time when you get home. look in morning where the droplets are and trace up to source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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