jon haney Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 I cant update yet... switched out the air filter and plugs today. Actually much easier than I expected. Anyway, when I got everything back together, I lifted the tank slightly, peaked in, started the bike, and gas started spraying a nice costly mist out of the fuel feed hose. This was not the problem to begin with, I have looked under the tank while it was running plenty of times recently. All of the moving around the tank and what not must have cracked it, it looks pretty dried out. At least I am learning quite a bit about my bike with all the part swaps. Any easy fixes for the hose? Or just order a new one for 69.95 from an online site? 69.95 for 4 ounces of steel and some rubber, nice. Are you sure it's not leaking at one of the banjo fittings? Each one has two aluminum or copper sealing washers just like brake banjo fittings. If you missed a washer, got some dirt under one, or didn't get the bolt/nut torqued properly, it can leak under pressure. You might just need new washers. If it's definitely leaking where the banjo fitting is crimped on to the end of the hose, say by-by to $69.95 + shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 I cant update yet... switched out the air filter and plugs today. Actually much easier than I expected. Anyway, when I got everything back together, I lifted the tank slightly, peaked in, started the bike, and gas started spraying a nice costly mist out of the fuel feed hose. This was not the problem to begin with, I have looked under the tank while it was running plenty of times recently. All of the moving around the tank and what not must have cracked it, it looks pretty dried out. At least I am learning quite a bit about my bike with all the part swaps. Any easy fixes for the hose? Or just order a new one for 69.95 from an online site? 69.95 for 4 ounces of steel and some rubber, nice. Are you sure it's not leaking at one of the banjo fittings? Each one has two aluminum or copper sealing washers just like brake banjo fittings. If you missed a washer, got some dirt under one, or didn't get the bolt/nut torqued properly, it can leak under pressure. You might just need new washers. If it's definitely leaking where the banjo fitting is crimped on to the end of the hose, say by-by to $69.95 + shipping. I disagree. Simply cut off the crimped sleeve of the fitting, and slice the hose to get it off the barbs. Get some high pressure EFI hose from an auto supply shop and use hose clamps to hold the new hose. I think it is 5/16 hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 or look in the phone book under hose making or hydraulic hose.. take it off the bike and take it to them.. probably charge you $15 to make it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 Nah, the hose is old and cracking, it split in more than one spot now. I found some guys called The hose guys who take care of hydraulic tubing and components..... too bad I already ordered the part. Found one for $60... oh well. I am not rich, but I want my damn hose, and a fuel leak is nothign to mess around with especially on a bike. I will suck it up and take OEM on this one. I will say though... between the sprockets, chain, air filter, spark plugs, oil, fiter, new clutch fluid, new vacuum hoses, and an overall extreme detail... the bike felt fucking great for the 5 miles I rode it until I lifted the tank for a view of gas misting everywhere. Basically creating a nice fuel/air mixture to make a vapor BOOOOM. One more week and I will be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 i've been following this thread with interest since i've always had crappy mileage with my 2000. usually around 25 mpg for my commute (i have a very heavy throttle hand...). i've measured (re-set trip meter when filling the tank to full - i know, only somewhat accurate) as high as low 40's on a sedate group ride. the bike tends to smell rich, even after fully warmed. the ends of the stock cans get black pretty soon after cleaning. except for comfort items (corbin & givi tail box), all stock. the temp tends to run towards the middle of the range with the fan coming on when moving slowly. she's definitely warmer than my previous bird. i intend to get the tank off (much more involved than my previous '97) to have a closer look at the vaccum lines and air cleaner. couple questions; 1. is my fuel economy within what others experience? 2. is there a way to test the fpr? i see new ones around $50 on the web. thanks in advance for the input! 1. Yes 2. Yes, but the cost of the proper equipment is more than the cost of a new part. So... this is one of those time when you say.. when in doubt, change it out. .... Other things to remember.... Commuting gas mileage... is going to be radically different from Touring gas mileage, even if both of them require a lot of Highway time. Why? 2 reasons factor in heavily. 1. Warm up time, even after the start up / rich period is over... the bike will continue to run very Rich until it gets all the way up to proper temps. I have a AFR guage that I can look down and see whats going on, and I can tell you that, on a 50 degree morning, even after running it for 2-3 minutes in the driveway, the AFR's will still be very Rich for the first 2 miles or so. 2. Parking your bike in the sun.... all day long at work, Vaporizes your gas FAST. On Road trips like this past weekend, I can get great mileage. And if you had a chance to ride with me, you would understand why it's GREAT. BUT.... when I ride it back and forth to work and park it outside, 5 mile one way commute, I'm lucky to break 40 mpg. Everyday99, you are doing great... keep up the good work. Next check your Brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I found some guys called The hose guys who take care of hydraulic tubing and components..... too bad I already ordered the part. Found one for $60... oh well. I am not rich, but I want my damn hose, and a fuel leak is nothign to mess around with especially on a bike. I will suck it up and take OEM on this one. +1 I used to redo brake, power-steering, and even air-conditioner hoses, but never a high-pressure fuel hose. Not worth it. If an OEM hose fails, you at least have some chance at legal recourse if you get burned. Pun very intended. I'm not even going to address the suggestion of hose clamps. :icon_shocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 I'm not even going to address the suggestion of hose clamps. :icon_shocked: Why not? All hoses have clamps for retention, some are better some worse. All the early FI systems used a band clamp for their high pressure hose to metal pipe joints,certainly no more secure than a worm gear hose clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Hey Mike.... were you and another blackie on Rose Canyon road a couple weeks ago? I live up the road from the Cantina and saw two parked on Rose Canyon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted June 16, 2012 Share Posted June 16, 2012 Hey Mike.... were you and another blackie on Rose Canyon road a couple weeks ago? I live up the road from the Cantina and saw two parked on Rose Canyon. Not me, just slogging up and down I5 nowadays. Did get down Santiago Canyon last week though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 If you consider last week 2 weeks ago now... good chance it was me. I ride up Live Oak, stop at Cook's Corner for a beer, ride up to Irvine Lake, turn around, stop at Cook's Corner for another beer, ride home... typical weekend route for my 3 'old' bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I'm not even going to address the suggestion of hose clamps. :icon_shocked: Why not? All hoses have clamps for retention, some are better some worse. All the early FI systems used a band clamp for their high pressure hose to metal pipe joints,certainly no more secure than a worm gear hose clamp. Seen a guy jump off his '90 GSXR at 40 MPH (was going 100+ when it lit up) because his crotch was on fire. He was testing his new nitrous kit and a hose slipped off with worm-gear clamp still on. He probably just forgot to tighten it properly, but when it comes to fuel lines, I can't get that picture out of my head. It's a "peace of mind" thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 OK... got everything back together. My idle sucks, and the throttle is VERY jumpy, I cannot ease onto the throttle, it just kicks up like a dropped the clutch. I pull in the clutch and try to raise the RPM slow.. they shoot up about 2K rpms and as long as I keep climbing they rise normally. The FI light kicks on, and all of the problems dissapear. The FI code is 2. Which is supposively a vacuum hose or faulty MAP sensors. Neither of these would create the symptoms I am getting, and the FI light coming on should not be able to fix either of these things. Am I Wrong here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 OK... got everything back together. My idle sucks, and the throttle is VERY jumpy, I cannot ease onto the throttle, it just kicks up like a dropped the clutch. I pull in the clutch and try to raise the RPM slow.. they shoot up about 2K rpms and as long as I keep climbing they rise normally. The FI light kicks on, and all of the problems dissapear. The FI code is 2. Which is supposively a vacuum hose or faulty MAP sensors. Neither of these would create the symptoms I am getting, and the FI light coming on should not be able to fix either of these things. Am I Wrong here? I am a butthole. Yes I am wrong on this. When putting my tank back on the final time, I pushed against the main center vacuum hose.... The FI code was correct, and these are definitely the symptoms you will get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Update, no substantial improvement to MPG, little more balls top end. Still an overall succes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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