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Proper gear for 90 degree turns


joe

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Hey guys, I have a question about general riding technique. What gear are most of you in before you head into a 90 degree left or right turn. I was formally taught that I should be in 2nd, but I find that I end up lugging the engine when accelerating out of the turn a lot of times. I go down to 1st sometimes, but don't like how my bike bites when I do that. Maybe I just need to take the turns faster?

Any thoughts?

Joe

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2nd works best for me. i dont have to clutch it. i just use the brake. the rpms drop to the bottom but it doesnt lug. then when i gas back on it. it seems to pull right back up. (this is for like making a turn on a street...not like hitting the twisties)

i imagine every bike is different. especially due to setup, speed, riding style, and etc.

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Depends on how I'm riding, and my mood.

If I want to maximize drive, then I'm in first, and usually come out on one wheel (if it goes right :wink: ). If I'm in lazy mode, and just cruising around, then it's second.

Thankfully, that doesn't happen often...... :grin:

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While we're on the "proper gear for 90 degree turn", I have a dumb question that's kind of related: how are you supposed to hang off to facilitate high speed turn? I tried that on the mountain roads by shifting my weight and butt to the inside before a turn, and when turning, I felt like I was going to fall off. When you hang off, which part of your body is used to hold on to the bike? I'm sure it's not the knee (as in magazines I saw their outside knee is pointing out without touching the tank) or arms (we're supposed to keep the steering neutral). I don't remember seeing their outside boot touching the frame either. So how do you keep from falling off?

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Centrifugal force keeps you on the bike.

I know this has potential for a flame war, but I weight my outside foot, and push my outside knee against the tank, while shifting my weight forward, and towards the inside of the turn.

Your inside leg should be resting on the peg, and your knee pointed down to gauge your lean angle, and to keep from lowsiding if you're really pushing it.

Might want to make sure you have some good leathers and knee pucks before you start leaning too far........... :wink:

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I use my outside knee to grip the side of the tank. It helps me maintain my body position on the bike without affecting steering inputs(too much). I recommend that you invest in a book titled " A Twist of the Wrist II" by Kieth Code. It's a much better source of info than magazines are. Good Luck.

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I'm sure it's not the knee (as in magazines I saw their outside knee is pointing out without touching the tank) or arms (we're supposed to keep the steering neutral).

I'm concerned about this one statement you made. You do know that it's your handlebar that steers the bike and not the shifting of weight. Shifting your weight is purely for balance. If you don't believe me (which I didn't believe at first) someone tested the effects of "body steering" vs. "handle-bar steering" by welding a second set of handlebars to his bike, but they were welded so they couldn't turn. He used the movable set to get up to speed and then put both hands on the imovable bar and tried, unsuccessfully, to steer the bike by shifting his weight. (Actually, he could change the direction of the bike slightly, but no where near as much as you would think or need.) I don't have time to look up the website right now, but maybe someone else knows it's location?

Joe

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It was Keith Code who rigged up that little experiment.

I'm pretty sure what testrider is talking about is the fact that once you've initiated the turn and reached the lean angle desired, the input on the bars should be minimal until it's time to stand it up. So whilst leaned over, you should be "neutral" on the bars, unless some steering correction is required.

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I use my outside knee to grip the side of the tank.  It helps me maintain my body position on the bike without affecting steering inputs(too much).  I recommend that you invest in a book titled  " A Twist of the Wrist II" by Kieth Code.  It's a much better source of info than magazines are.  Good Luck.

Thank you for all of you and I appreciate it. Yes, I do have the 2 books from Keith Code: A Twist of The Wrist I & II. He did say to put weight on the outside foot peg so that we can use it as leverage on the inside wrist to counter steer into the turn but he didn't say much about what else to hold on to.

-Mike-

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I'm sure it's not the knee (as in magazines I saw their outside knee is pointing out without touching the tank) or arms (we're supposed to keep the steering neutral).

I'm concerned about this one statement you made. You do know that it's your handlebar that steers the bike and not the shifting of weight. Shifting your weight is purely for balance. If you don't believe me (which I didn't believe at first) someone tested the effects of "body steering" vs. "handle-bar steering" by welding a second set of handlebars to his bike, but they were welded so they couldn't turn. He used the movable set to get up to speed and then put both hands on the imovable bar and tried, unsuccessfully, to steer the bike by shifting his weight. (Actually, he could change the direction of the bike slightly, but no where near as much as you would think or need.) I don't have time to look up the website right now, but maybe someone else knows it's location?

Joe

Joe, thanks for your comments. I understand what you're saying. When I said "we're supposed to keep the steering neutral" I meant "during the turn". As we started the turn by counter steer, I understand that we're not supposed to keep the pressure on the steering bar but rather keep it in a natural or neutral mode (until of course if we need to change direction again then we would press on the bar at the diredtion that we want to turn), right?

-Mike-

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It was Keith Code who rigged up that little experiment.

I'm pretty sure what testrider is talking about is the fact that once you've initiated the turn and reached the lean angle desired, the input on the bars should be minimal until it's time to stand it up. So whilst leaned over, you should be "neutral" on the bars, unless some steering correction is required.

Redbird,

That's exactly what I meant! Thank you. I already typed a response to Joe before I saw your message.

On a side note: is the stock Bridgestone BT57 good enought to scrape knees? That's what I have on my 97 XX. I better ask you guys before I push it any further :-)

-Mike-

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If you still have the stock bt57's on a '97 still on I would advise you to get rid of them ASAP. Do not try testing your lateral acceleration skills on tires that old, they are no good.

It's a new set of BT57 that I had them put on 2000 mi ago. This is my 3rd set: the 1st set lasted about 9000 mi, the 2nd set of BT57 lasted about 14000 mi and I'm on my 3rd set.

-Mike-

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