voodooxx

i have a honda tank pad like the one above to protect the tank from my belt. i also use sniders paint guard to protect the sides and under my tank bag. its a clear vinyl that sticks on with static electricity. cut it to fit spray on some water then apply and squegee the water bubbles out. can hardly tell its there. looks good and peels off easy.

its different state by state i have state farm. $293 every six months for full coverage. i'm 31 single with no tickets. they have about the best deal going in my area. but like steve said they will try to dick you if you get a ticket. i know that from past experience.

outta atleast call the better business bureau. that way you can add your name to the list of complaints.

i'm 6'5" and i have a corbin seat with stock pegs. the seat is lower but i dont really notice it. it has made one heck of a difference on my butt. i would highly recommend a corbin to anyone interested.

go to your local bike/atv shop. if you ask they probably have a display with mini tubes of the grip glue. just enough to do 1 or 2 sets of grips. costs only a buck or two.

whats typical? down 1 in the front?

i have no personal experience with them. but i do have a friend who has them mounted on his busa. he has had them since the first of last summer. he does burnouts on a regular basis and they still look brand new. (which leads me to believe they have little or no grip). the guy who sold them to him, told him that he would have trouble getting them to hook up on the strip. said that everyone he had sold complained about not hooking up. but my friend bought them cause they were the cheapest.(cheap guy). they break loose with the slightest flick of the wrist. :???: not sure about all of these tires so take this with a grain of salt

thanks for the info guys. the restricted air flow for the FI bikes makes sense. just wondering. to me the grills look cool.

thanks. anybody know if they stopped using them on the fi models. also do you happen to have a part # or microfiche link to them?

i've noticed on a lot of pics of you guys bikes that yall have mesh grills in the ram air intakes. is this factory? looks to me like it is but my '03 doesn't have them. i tried looking for them on ronayers but no luck. if they are factory can someone show me where i can find them. thanks

got the socket.

to change the springs out on the front, what all do you need? i.e. special tools, parts, oil ??? the reason i ask is i like to get everything i need before i start. nothing worse than getting into a job only to realize you need something and have to wait and order it. i have put together harley type forks but never a metric fork. the harley ones are pretty easy but i wasnt sure about the xx forks.

i made a lift for the front or rear. its a stand the goes over the bike and i use a tiedown strap to lift the bike up. this is kind of the same as hoisting from the ceiling only i can move it around to get it in position. i used 1" pipe with threaded ends and some pipe elbows and tees. it cost me about $80 bucks total at home depot. once i got it together i welded the pipes so they would not loosen. finished it sort of looks like a clothes rack. i would post a pic but i don't have a new photo host since photoisland went down. if you want one i could email it just pm me.

the cord i ordered from autocom worked. it solved the problem and it sounds good. it is the: isolated mono lead(2.5mm) part#173 thanks all for the help

whats the part number?

nothing i did got rid of the buzz. so i cked the autocom website and they have an audio cord specifically for radar/gps that is run off the 12v system. so i ordered it. i will post if its works. from what i see in the pic is has some sort of choke? or isolator?. says it should cut out the interferance. kind of pricey but i thought id give it a shot.

lets see: okay the power cable to the detector runs over the top of the tank. i have a powerlet plug in my tankbag so the line runs from the battery to the bag then to the detector that is mounted just above the handlebars. the audio cord runs under the tank. i moved this around before with no change in the static. i have not moved the power cord around but i will try that. the power to the autocom and the autocom itself is under the seat. so the only cords running under the tank are the one for the detector and the mp3 player. i dont have any interferrence with just the mp3 player. it returns as soon as i connect pwr to the detector. i also have had no surges in pwr. this seems to be isolated to the detector. im kind of wondering if the detector itself is picking up the interference and transmitting it? maybe?

tried looping the cable around the choke. still no luck. i also unhooked the the grounds from the battery and used a common frame ground. still nothing. i even tried using a common pwr not directly to the batt. still buzzing. i can live with it but id really like to try to fix it. any more ideas???

this one said to just clamp it on the wire. but i will try looping it in the morning. might as well try it since ive got it. thanks for the info.

well i tried the ferrite choke from radio shack. did not work. tried clipping it on every cable still no luck. so tomorrow im gonna try using the common ground point idea. right now the radar and the autocom are directly grounded to the negative on the battery. i want to try using the frame instead. any other ideas?

thanks birdie xx. that looks like what i need. i know its coming in through the power cord not the audio cord. i have the cord to my mp3 player right next to the detector cord and no problems with it. the mp3 runs on batteries. i even tried moving them completely away from the bike and it sounds good until i connect power to the detector. will hit the local radio shack tomorrow. thanks

i know what its from but how do i fix it. it surges with the motor. i have my radar detector hooked up with a powerlet outlet that is hooked directly to the battery. the detector is then plugged into my autocom system. if i unhook it the buzz goes away so i know its narrowed down to this. i tried using an isolator i got from the parts store but it didnt work. it was for car stereos. any ideas???

if you are asking me. i dont know. i just own a buell xb9r and an XX. saw where some people where talking about it so i thought id post a few pics. just so everyone could see what they look like. the pics of the pegs are on the buell and the pegs held next to the XX. sorry

furbird, the straps on the rear footpegs are not real tight. i just use them to keep the bike pulled forward in the chock. keeps it from rocking front to back. it probably doesnt even help but it makes my nerves feel better iceman_40 i cant strap it higher on the forks. as you stated the tie points are too wide and the straps would rub the inside of the fairing. i have to take the front fender off regardless. its just low enough to hit the front of the bed on the truck. found that out the hard way. :oops: oh and where i have it straped there is no need for the suspension to be loaded. it works like a solid mount. holds the front wheel snug to the bed. the only thing i worry about is cranking down too tight on the lowers and maybe tweaking my forks. :???: so i try to make sure they are snug and not held with a death grip.

this help?