Hobicus Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Last year (August?) I did a track day (at Blackhawk) and the bike just died (in between turn 6, while braking before turn 7). Engine idiot lights indicate power, but bike not running. I put my hand up, coasted down the pit lane, and eventually the bike fired back up. I checked the bike over, went back out, and the bike died in the same place. Since it was the afternoon session, I just decided to call it a day (it's an OMEN!). I went through the kill switch, it's clean, went through the wiring harness, and I don't see anything wrong. Checked the kickstand switch, it seems fine, too. Bike runs great on the street, Forrest rode it at WiXX, not a lick of trouble. Fast forward to RacerXX... I rode it all day on Friday and Saturday morning, and then Chris took it out, and it died on him. He wasn't able to get it restarted, so they went to pick him up at the end of the session. When we got it in the pits, it fired right up. So the only suspect thing on the bike has been the bank angle sensor. I bought this bike from Joe after Griff crashed it at NeXXt. The BAS has a broken tab, but Joe had expertly re-attached the BAS with a zip tie, it is rock solid. Last night I pulled it, and was able to confirm basic operation: If you start the bike, turn the sensor on the side, the bike stops. No amount of thumbing the starter will start the bike (although I didn't wait like a minute with the key on) until you cycle the key, then it fires right up. I'm thinking it's a $100 part, and worth replacing since it has a broken tab and is suspect. But I'm also taking other suggestions of things to investigate. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 If it is the same p/n as the BB, lmk. I have a spare from an undertail I bought a few years back. For you, no charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilgirlkat Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 idk I kinda liked the idea of gremlins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 If it is the same p/n as the BB, lmk. I have a spare from an undertail I bought a few years back. For you, no charge. Interestingly enough, it is the same part number. 35160-MBW-D21 Just looked it up. If you're willing to part with it, I promise a reach around and reimbursement for postage. Got my address? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 If it is the same p/n as the BB, lmk. I have a spare from an undertail I bought a few years back. For you, no charge. Interestingly enough, it is the same part number. 35160-MBW-D21 Just looked it up. If you're willing to part with it, I promise a reach around and reimbursement for postage. Got my address? Great. I will send it as soon as I get back in town Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I doubt it. I have been able to trip mine,,,on the 4 wheel, in the sand. But it was a pretty abrupt corner. No way to do it on a bike. If you turn it off and back on it should have started right a way. If it was. I have removed the pendulum from it and never another problem. It could have be done another way by drilling and silicone the inside. But, it is permanent the way I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 I doubt it. I have been able to trip mine,,,on the 4 wheel, in the sand. But it was a pretty abrupt corner. No way to do it on a bike. If you turn it off and back on it should have started right a way. If it was. I have removed the pendulum from it and never another problem. It could have be done another way by drilling and silicone the inside. But, it is permanent the way I did it. My thought was that sensor was going off way too easily. I don't want to disable the sensor, I just want it to work as expected. I loosened it, started the bike, tilted it left and at about 45 degrees the bike stopped. Cycle the key, start the bike, tilt it right, and at about 60 degrees the bike stopped. Wasn't very consistent, though... sometimes left would go 60-70 degrees, sometimes it would quit at 45. I realize when the bike's cornering there are other forces at work. The strange thing is that when the bike would quit for me, it was after a long hard mostly straight high RPM patch. I'd get off the gas and on the brake, then when I'd get back on the gas for the corner, the bike's not running. I thought fuel pump, vapor lock, etc, but would have thought that would have other symptoms. I've been through the electrical/ground etc stuff, but will probably do it again just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 the bas was one part I could not eliminate. the wiring and permissions were too hard to replicate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Rich, I know your focusing on the BAS, but could you have a pinched tank vent line? Run it hard for a while and pull a vaccuum on the tank. Slow down, or stop and you get fuel flow again. It might even pinch off more in a lean. As a kid, I put a hotdog in my dads fuel tank. It would float around for a long time before blocking the fuel port in the tank. By the time he could get back to the car, the suction had released the hotdog and the car would start. It would also only happen with less than half a tank of gas. And NO, he has never let me forget it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 It's just a switch, no? On the F4i I just jumped the connector and called it a day. I later re-installed it once I figured out a solid mount for it, but I ran several days without it. the bas was one part I could not eliminate. the wiring and permissions were too hard to replicate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 OK, Rich, I am confused. Do you still need it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 OK, Rich, I am confused. Do you still need it? Yes, please. Send away. Need my address? I compared the action of the one on it with the one on the XX. If you shake the on on it side to side, you can audibly hear the pendulum clunk. Not so with the one on my XX. Rich, I know your focusing on the BAS, but could you have a pinched tank vent line? Run it hard for a while and pull a vaccuum on the tank. Slow down, or stop and you get fuel flow again. It might even pinch off more in a lean. As a kid, I put a hotdog in my dads fuel tank. It would float around for a long time before blocking the fuel port in the tank. By the time he could get back to the car, the suction had released the hotdog and the car would start. It would also only happen with less than half a tank of gas. And NO, he has never let me forget it. You put your hot dog in your dad's gas tank? Didn't that hurt? I originally thought it might be something like this, as the problem in August happened right after I refuelled the tank in between sessions. I've been through the vent line, it's fine. There's no kinks/bends in the line, and if you blow air goes through to the tank. I would also expect that something like that would be more of a loss of engine power failure, not a "it just quit". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 I feel kinda bad about all this. Rich, if you're going to do a true control test, you simply need to bypass the BAS altogether for a test period. If you swap the BAS and it doesn't cut out, you're good, but if it does, you've got the both the possibilities of it being something else altogether, or another faulty BAS. A full test would involve swapping the BAS between your XX and 954 and seeing if the symptoms interchange. Unfortunately, its quite a safety issue due to its intermittent and sporadic occurrence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 I feel kinda bad about all this. Rich, if you're going to do a true control test, you simply need to bypass the BAS altogether for a test period. If you swap the BAS and it doesn't cut out, you're good, but if it does, you've got the both the possibilities of it being something else altogether, or another faulty BAS. A full test would involve swapping the BAS between your XX and 954 and seeing if the symptoms interchange. Unfortunately, its quite a safety issue due to its intermittent and sporadic occurrence. Don't feel bad, Joe. I think the situation on the track is extreme enought that a weak BAS that works perfect on the street could be a failing one on the track. I may take the one that Phillip has and use it as a spare. I've checked with my local stealer, and it's a $100 part. New might be a good plan in this case. If it turns out I don't need it, I'll return it to him along with a stack of cheese curds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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