Coming up on 50,000 miles

[jaykup]

My bike is about ready to roll over to 50,000 miles, and so far the only things I've done to it are tires, oil & filters, brakes, chains & sprockets (front). I'd like to keep it until 100,000 and start looking at either another one or something else.

This winter I'm planning on changing out all the fluids for the first time (coolant, brakes, fork), maybe go with a stiffer spring and ligher oil in the forks, seems like a popular mod. I'm only 150lbs, and I love the suspension as-is, but maybe I'm missing out on something better.

I haven't replaced anything on it yet. I've heard stories of the stator going out around 40-60k, but then I think someone said they changed the stator on the 2003 (my year) to something better? I really don't want it to go out on me when I'm a days ride away from home... should I be thinking about replacing it soon? The rectifier too? Anything else I should replace or be checking?

[spicholy]

Check, or have checked, your valve clearances.

[Zero Knievel]

If you're 150, the stock springs should be more than adequate. Us heavier folk need better springs because most all bikes are designed with a 160 lb rider in mind.

Install a Datel voltmeter to monitor the electrical system. A stator should pretty much never go bad for no reason at all. The regulator/rectifier is the more obvious culprit and a voltmeter will keep you informed of it's proper function at a glance.

I just hit 70K and replaced the cam chain tensioner, so you can look forward to that sometime in the future.

[rideonXX]

Certainly check the steering head bearings---just raise the front end and rotate feeling for notches. Mine were bad by then so changed to the All Balls roller bearnings---BIG difference on the plus side.

As for 50K---or 100K for that matter--if you've done your basic maintainance---it should still be good to go for many, many more. I am attaching a link to a YouTube Video done by a young fellow (member of another forum I visit www.pashnit.com) who bought a brand new 2004 F4i for his first bike---and in 6 years has ridden it---check it out. I would think the Bird doesn't 'work' nearly as hard as a 600---thus, should go farther. Here ya go

Happy trails, kel

[TOXXIC]

Great video Kel. I was surprised to see the Honda's don't have a million miles speedo? I didn't know it reset to 0000's at the 100K mark.

[tomek]

This winter I'm planning on changing out all the fluids for the first time (coolant, brakes, fork), maybe go with a stiffer spring and ligher oil in the forks, seems like a popular mod. I'm only 150lbs, and I love the suspension as-is, but maybe I'm missing out on something better.

At 150 you definitely don`t need stiffer front springs for street riding.Stock are fine.

Not all fork fluids are equal,viscosity index does not mean much as shown in this link :

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/files/s...sion%20oils.pdf

I`ve had excellent results with Maxima Racing Fork fluid 7 W,fork works fine now,no need for Race Tech or even re-valve.

[jaykup]

This winter I'm planning on changing out all the fluids for the first time (coolant, brakes, fork), maybe go with a stiffer spring and ligher oil in the forks, seems like a popular mod. I'm only 150lbs, and I love the suspension as-is, but maybe I'm missing out on something better.

At 150 you definitely don`t need stiffer front springs for street riding.Stock are fine.

Not all fork fluids are equal,viscosity index does not mean much as shown in this link :

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/files/s...sion%20oils.pdf

I`ve had excellent results with Maxima Racing Fork fluid 7 W,fork works fine now,no need for Race Tech or even re-valve.

Thanks for the info. I've always liked the suspension on the bike, and never had a problem with it/wished it was better. I was just wondering if I was missing a suspension mod that would transform the bike (like what I've read on the forums). I've been doing more research on it, and Keith Code has a great video that shows how to setup sag, and as long as the required distance (40mm or so of sag for street) is around the middle of the springs adjustment, your all good. If not, you need to change springs.

[tomek]

Well,no, the sag is adjusted for a given spring.Something around 40-45 mm is fine for the street bikes,but don`t take it literately,there are many "if"`s and "but"`s.

Here is good example,many modern supersport bikes have long topout/negative travel springs in their forks.Proper sag number for such a design is somewhere in 40-45 mm range even for the racetrack usage.In case like that it is actually easier to set proper sag numbers by observing amount of suspension travel.If the fork has 120mm stroke and you are only using 105 then the front rides too high aand preload needs to be relaxed.

Many people don`t know that and are ending up with insanely wound up front springs trying to achieve old schooled 30-35mm of sag.

There are spring rate calculators at various Web pages but unless you are trying to pull ultra late braking maneuver during trackday don`t take them too seriously.

When you change oil don`t forget to remove cartridges and take them apart,otherwise the whole operation is almost pointless.All the crap usually ends up at the bottoms of lower leg and cartridge.

Showa HMAS is very easy to disassemble,there is just a circlip holding compression valve assembly.Clean everything very well with brake parts cleaner ( just don`t soak rubber parts with it).

Reassemble,fill with fresh oil ( factory spec. amount).Highspeed harshness will be mostly gone.