StPeteXX Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 So, I pull into my driveway, dismount the XX and notice a burning wire type smell. I then notice black smoke comming out from the kick stand side of the bike from under the tail section. I shut bike off, remove seat and it smells like burt wire. I turn key and all lights come on, but no start. Does that sound anything like a failed R/R? Machine is a 1997 with roughly 18k miles. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 When in doubt, replace it, but triple-check your stator to be sure there's no short there or you'll toast a new R/R in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Wait..... You show up after like 9 years, and the smoke comes out of your bike? Dude, don't be blaming us. Sounds like there's way too much current going someplace. On the left side of your bike under the cowl is the regulator, as well as the rest of the main wiring harness. Pull your cowl off and have a look...odds are the connector for your regulator is blackened and possibly some of the insulation on the wires as well. If that's the case, it could be caused by corroded connection, but there's a high probability that your regulator is bad. Look under Important/Saved Threads for guidelines to testing the electrical system. Keep in mind your battery should be in good condition and well charged before doing any diagnostics. If you don't have a sealed batter, check the electrolyte level, as overcurrent conditions will boil off electrolyte and leave the battery with a shortage of fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 I removed the cowl and the regulator looks a bit discolored? It's stinks like burnt wire! There's also some dark spots on the rear foot bracket. I'll post up some pics. Don't forget, just about anything mechanical/electrical is like doing brain surgery for me. I get frustrated way too fast, especially when I have no clue what I am doing. thank you all for the help/assistance. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I removed the cowl and the regulator looks a bit discolored? It's stinks like burnt wire! There's also some dark spots on the rear foot bracket. I'll post up some pics. Don't forget, just about anything mechanical/electrical is like doing brain surgery for me. I get frustrated way too fast, especially when I have no clue what I am doing. thank you all for the help/assistance. Rich Typical on older Hondas with no coolig ribbs on the RR. Change it and the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 A little research pointed me to this: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...gulator-Rectifi Does that look about right? Battery was replace about 9 months or so ago. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrgoudy Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 A little research pointed me to this: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...gulator-Rectifi Does that look about right? Battery was replace about 9 months or so ago. Rich FWIW I went with the Yamaha R1 option, which has held up fine for years. A little more work involved in making the connections, but it has much better cooling fins (IMHO) and was, at the time at least, very competitively priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 A little research pointed me to this: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...gulator-Rectifi Does that look about right? Battery was replace about 9 months or so ago. That one will do. If your battery was new 9 months or 9 years ago, it still won't start your bike now. Make sure that it takes and holds a good charge. Also check this link...close to you and should be quick shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 A little research pointed me to this: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...gulator-Rectifi Does that look about right? Battery was replace about 9 months or so ago. That one will do. If your battery was new 9 months or 9 years ago, it still won't start your bike now. Make sure that it takes and holds a good charge. Also check this link...close to you and should be quick shipping. Great find Joe!! Bought and paid for. Thank you ! The battery seemed fine and has started the bike just fine until yesterday when I had the meltdown. Could the battery have been damaged as a result? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Yes, it could have, but its probably fine. Use the flowchart on that eBay link and do some diagnostics just like it says. If you don't have a meter, pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for less than $5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Yes, it could have, but its probably fine. Use the flowchart on that eBay link and do some diagnostics just like it says. If you don't have a meter, pick up a cheap one at Harbor Freight for less than $5. Nope, don't have a meter. Good excuse to run over to HF. I think I have a few coupons for free LED flashlights Just got a shipping notification from seller. That was FAST !! I appreciate the help and the quick find on the part ! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 14, 2010 Author Share Posted September 14, 2010 Ok, so I went and pulled the fried rectifier. I pulled the connector off and sure enough, yellow end wire is burnt all to shit. Now, can I yank that wire out and simply replace the spade connector and plug it back in or will I need a complete new connector? Any clue what size spade connector it needs. Can post some pics if needed. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Ok, so I went and pulled the fried rectifier. I pulled the connector off and sure enough, yellow end wire is burnt all to shit. Now, can I yank that wire out and simply replace the spade connector and plug it back in or will I need a complete new connector? Any clue what size spade connector it needs. The problem is the unique connector the R/R uses. I know some (for the R1 replacement) just to a wire-to-wire redo of the harness because (IIRC) the R1 isn't a perfect match (same wires...slightly different plug design). Another option would be to get the proper harness side plug (from a used wiring harness...contact motorcycle salvage yards) and then you just need to change out the harness side plug. You might be able to do that by pushing out the connectors from the old plug and reseating them in the new one...repairing the one that got burnt with a segment of new wire. That a yellow wire burnt out means you REALLY need to check your stator to be sure there's no shorts or grounds in it. Hopefully it's just damage from the R/R overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Yeah, I haven't been able to find a source for the Honda connector with the wide pins for +/- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Yeah, I haven't been able to find a source for the Honda connector with the wide pins for +/- I found this site for generic pin connectors for vehicles. http://www.vintageconnections.com/ The only problem is that you have to order like a bag of 5 of them for any given set. If you want the unlatching kind, you can just get the latching kind and snap the latch off so you always have the option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 Yeah, I haven't been able to find a source for the Honda connector with the wide pins for +/- I found this site for generic pin connectors for vehicles. http://www.vintageconnections.com/ The only problem is that you have to order like a bag of 5 of them for any given set. If you want the unlatching kind, you can just get the latching kind and snap the latch off so you always have the option. Thanks for the link. I checked the site. Which connector is it that I need? Any other ideas for a connector source? What have other's done? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peepa Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Not sure if there the same or not but this may work for ya http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...ifier-Connector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 Not sure if there the same or not but this may work for ya http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...ifier-Connector Their live chat pointed me towards: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...df80375317ce9ce Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Not sure if there the same or not but this may work for ya http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...ifier-Connector Their live chat pointed me towards: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/...df80375317ce9ce Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do? Buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do? Perhaps, but there is something called an "administrative cost" to doing things. You can spend 2 hours looking for something that will do the job a little cheaper, but what is that 2 hours of your time worth? I got the Fuzeblock for my XX, and it was almost $90 with shipping....ouch. Still, I don't have the skills of others here who could whip up a homemade device in an afternoon. To put something together with something cheaper would mean buying other parts needed to make it do the same thing. In the end, the guy did the design and testing to make a quality product. Unless I can make my own easily, it's worth the $$$ for someone who did the work for me. Paid almost $700 to fix the truck A/C at a shop (w/2 year warranty). Not happy about that, but I might have saved $100-150 in parts by doing it myself (but 1 year warranty max) and still have to bring it in for shop to evacuate and charge the system. Add in the time and aggravation to do it on my time, and the labor charge (while unwelcome) was easier than doing it myself. I only have reason to be pissed if the repair work doesn't last well beyond the warranty period. You pay to avoid the hassle of doing it the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 Kinda spendy.. but what are ya gonna do? Perhaps, but there is something called an "administrative cost" to doing things. You can spend 2 hours looking for something that will do the job a little cheaper, but what is that 2 hours of your time worth? I got the Fuzeblock for my XX, and it was almost $90 with shipping....ouch. Still, I don't have the skills of others here who could whip up a homemade device in an afternoon. To put something together with something cheaper would mean buying other parts needed to make it do the same thing. In the end, the guy did the design and testing to make a quality product. Unless I can make my own easily, it's worth the $$$ for someone who did the work for me. Paid almost $700 to fix the truck A/C at a shop (w/2 year warranty). Not happy about that, but I might have saved $100-150 in parts by doing it myself (but 1 year warranty max) and still have to bring it in for shop to evacuate and charge the system. Add in the time and aggravation to do it on my time, and the labor charge (while unwelcome) was easier than doing it myself. I only have reason to be pissed if the repair work doesn't last well beyond the warranty period. You pay to avoid the hassle of doing it the hard way. My thoughts exactly. I bought one right away. I have no desire to fabricate my own connector or spend forever searching for one. The spendy part was also the shipping. Originally they wanted just under $15. I had them verify if that was the correct shipping price as I typically can ship 16lb bowling balls anywhere in the US for about that same price. They gave me a "discount" code which reduced shipping to $7.50. Total is $21.xx shipped. Rich I'll keep ya posted on how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALCXX Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 How ya been Rich? STPeteXX A name I haven't seen for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPeteXX Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 R/R replaced with new connector. Everything wired correctly. Bike was still dead. Nothing, no clock, headlights, nothing. Battery was fine. Turned out the connector on the starter relay was crispy too. Replaced that and all is well !! Bike runs great. No flickering of the HID anymore either. Thanks again for the help and guidance !! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALCXX Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Good news. Good to hear from after many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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