Mikey Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 I don't know where my manual went, and there are always cheats. So can someone go through how to change the fork fluid the easiest and the amount and type of fluid to put in and tools required? I'd like to do it this weekend if at all possible. I just don't want to have something apart and find that I'm too far to back up, but don't have what I need to continue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 I don't know where my manual went, and there are always cheats. So can someone go through how to change the fork fluid the easiest and the amount and type of fluid to put in and tools required? I'd like to do it this weekend if at all possible. I just don't want to have something apart and find that I'm too far to back up, but don't have what I need to continue. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=50266 Hobi has a post a few posts in that is very detailed. Intended for a fork spring change, but you do the fluid in the process. I had to PM him to find it...his info should be in a DIY section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 1) Ride bike to NeXXt 2) Have Tina room with me 3) Ask me to do it while we're there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 Won't last till then there Hobi... So the instructions say after you have emptied your oil, to put top all the way down. So without the spring or spacer, you are compressing your fork? And then doing your measurement from there? What type of oil are we putting in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Won't last till then there Hobi... So the instructions say after you have emptied your oil, to put top all the way down. So without the spring or spacer, you are compressing your fork? And then doing your measurement from there? What type of oil are we putting in? Can Tina still room with me at NeXXt??? Remove the spacer, washer and spring, push the fork tube all the way down, add oil, pump the cartdrige to distribute the oil, top up, and measure via the Mityvac method. I like to use the Honda SS8 oil, which is stock 10w fork oil. You'll need to buy 3 bottles, although each takes about 1 bottle and a little more, as I remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 What is a mity vac? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 What is a mity vac? http://www.mityvac.com/ It's a vaccuum pump with a catch basin. You can pick them up at an auto parts store, I paid about $35 US for mine. It's a handy tool to have, especially for bleeding brakes, which is what it's often used for. In a pinch, you can use your penis pump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I saw the other thread. Manual says every 15K? One year? Heck, I'm like 10 time overdue on age alone (lol). A mechanic told me that you really don't need to worry about fork oil if you don't abuse the bike and the seals are holding, but I think that was geared towards saving $$$ rather than optimal performance. Rather than a Mighty Vac (or penis pump), you can make your own. Save a spaghetti sauce jar, make two holes in the lid and attach tubes. Suck on one, use the other to drain fluid. The fluid will fall to the bottom of the jar as you draw air. It should work fine if all you're doing is draining off excess and not hosing up a lot of liquids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Randy Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I got my XX with 20K on the clock and did the fork oil change along with all the other fluids. If the factory fluid was red as the Honda stuff I put back in, it convinced me to make fork oil changing a every two year ritual. The stuff that came out looked like gray metalic paint, and I'm quite sure the guy that had the bike before me never changed it. Bike was 6 yrs old at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 It took a lot of flushes to get the grey goop out of one fork but the other was fine. Unfortunately I found my steering head bearings are toast. Anyone have the bearing numbers for the steering head bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willxx23 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I got my XX with 20K on the clock and did the fork oil change along with all the other fluids. If the factory fluid was red as the Honda stuff I put back in, it convinced me to make fork oil changing a every two year ritual. The stuff that came out looked like gray metalic paint, and I'm quite sure the guy that had the bike before me never changed it. Bike was 6 yrs old at the time. I'm in the middle of doing this right now, I have never done it and I have 65k on the bike. The old fluid looks the same (grey and very foul smelling). I'm swapping in some Wilbers springs, new brake pads, and a new front tire while it's off and anything else that needs to be freshened up. I will say I'll be doing it every 2 years at a minimum from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 It took a lot of flushes to get the grey goop out of one fork but the other was fine. Unfortunately I found my steering head bearings are toast. Anyone have the bearing numbers for the steering head bearings? http://www.goallballs.com/SHOP/shopexd.asp...=Ret&id=589 Get the All Balls tapered steering head bearings. If you can make it through till NeXXt, this is something we should do in the parking lot. You'll need a steering head tool, which I have. (It can be done without one, but....) If you want, I can pick them up and bring them along (along with all the tools necessary) to NeXXt, and we'll do them there. It looks like at this point I'm probably caging it to NeXXt (my dislocated clavicle isn't going to be happy with distance riding) so I can toss in all the necessary stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted August 16, 2009 Author Share Posted August 16, 2009 Rich, that would be awesome. I have no choice but to wait, I don't want my vibrating front tire to kill a new bearing. I'm getting tires from Joe. Yes, please pick them up and bring the tool. I'd really appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Rich, that would be awesome. I have no choice but to wait, I don't want my vibrating front tire to kill a new bearing. I'm getting tires from Joe. Yes, please pick them up and bring the tool. I'd really appreciate it. Will do! Between Dion's collection of tools, and what I'll bring, we'll be able to get it done. You do still have a center stand, right? We'll take some pictures and I'll write up a "How To" thread when it's all said and done. You WILL like the results of the tapered bearings... you get NO head shake, even with cupped tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 I do have a center stand yes. So while the front tire is off I'll need to get the front tire that Joe has, put on (and a new rear). I think this needs a new thread... I'm going to open a new thread on "Things to Fix at neXXt"so we know what we are in for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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