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Rear brakes locked up on me


Mr.XX

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Riding Home tonight on the expressway and the bike begins to slow , Luckily I was in the right lane and able to get over before she locked totally ... Rear brakes smoking and when I put it up on the center stand the wheel wouldnt turn and the rear pedal was frozen. tried to pry pads apart with a screwdriver , no go, I lifted the front wh eel and tried to turn it but it was dragging too. finally I opened the rear bleeder valve and was able to push the pads off the disk, lifted the front and the wheel turned freely

I was able to ride it home using only the front lever ... when I got home I tried the rear lever with it on the center and the rear locked again.

anyone have any idea why this happened ? and What I can do to fix it .

97 bird w/100k + miles, fluid in both reseviors...

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Riding Home tonight on the expressway and the bike begins to slow , Luckily I was in the right lane and able to get over before she locked totally ... Rear brakes smoking and when I put it up on the center stand the wheel wouldnt turn and the rear pedal was frozen. tried to pry pads apart with a screwdriver , no go, I lifted the front wh eel and tried to turn it but it was dragging too. finally I opened the rear bleeder valve and was able to push the pads off the disk, lifted the front and the wheel turned freely

I was able to ride it home using only the front lever ... when I got home I tried the rear lever with it on the center and the rear locked again.

anyone have any idea why this happened ? and What I can do to fix it .

97 bird w/100k + miles, fluid in both reseviors...

seams to be a common problem lately, but, the reason that this happens is the plunger in the master is covering the relief hole or something else is. trash maybe.

also can be the adjustment on the linkage. Sometimes it is user pressing on the pedal, but usually goes away unless things have heated up to much. Gonna take a look see at all the parts and do a through inspection.

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so do I need to replace the mastercylinder, the one on the clipon? or the rear brake master.. the one by the rear pedal?

or can it be fixed .... I am handy at turning a wrench just not good with diagnosis

thanks for the info Stan

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so do I need to replace the mastercylinder, the one on the clipon? or the rear brake master.. the one by the rear pedal?

or can it be fixed .... I am handy at turning a wrench just not good with diagnosis

thanks for the info Stan

the thing is I would go through everything piece by piece and inspect and test. Big job but, brakes are required....the masters are the first place to teardown and inspect.

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are there any parts needed to do this or just remove take it apart , clean and reassemble?

If the seal is bad and a piece is loose and plugging the relief hole, you will. But, the only way to know is to take it apart and Look!

:icon_twisted:

I know I'm kinda like Tuttle...so I am told... :icon_biggrin:

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If you are going to tear it apart, you may as well put in a new seal kit, especially since it has a lot of miles on it. :icon_rolleyes:

You might also consider de-linking the front and rear brakes just in case the proportioning valve is causing the problem. :icon_think:

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If you are going to tear it apart, you may as well put in a new seal kit, especially since it has a lot of miles on it. :icon_rolleyes:

You might also consider de-linking the front and rear brakes just in case the proportioning valve is causing the problem. :icon_think:

+1 on the seal kit. I had to pull the rear's on mine a few weeks ago as they were sticking. Once I cleaned everything out again, the problem was solved... but I don't have 100k on the bike like you do. So I would recomend the seal kits. Double check Ron Ayers Micro Fiche for the list... but I think this is what mine was. I did fronts and rear. Note that a set is each size piston. (they fit in the groove of the caliper body... not the piston)

06431-MA3-405 SEAL SET, PISTON

06451-GE2-405 SEAL SET, PISTON

06451-MZ2-405 SEAL SET, PISTON

43352-568-003 SCREW, BLEEDER

43353-461-771 CAP, BLEEDER

45111-MAJ-G41 O-RING (2.5X1.5)

From what CBRQuad stated... maybe it wasnt necessary, and the bleeding and adding more fluid dislodged the trapped/stuck debris?? I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the rears on the rebuild.

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Update: I pulled the caliper off of my "parts" bike and did a thorough cleaning and inspection of it

I put it on the bike and di a bleed of the system ... The pad were worn pretty good but the new ones had'nt arrived so I put them back on

took it out and the system works flawlessly ... 1 finger on the brake lever to stop after that ... almost too sensitive

I dont think I havae ever purged the whole system and put new fluid in ... Could that have been part of the problem?

anyways Thanks to all of you for your Help and support ... Its nice to know you guys are around when I start turning wrenches on something that I have never tried before .... and it was real nice to have extra parts that I could work on before tearing into my rolling bike ( I guess there is a benefit to wrecking your bike though I dont suggest it :icon_rolleyes: )

:icon_cool:

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