Major Service

[Para045]

OK my 98 TiBird is just about to hit 90 000km (58 000km since I bought her in 06), I reckon it's about time I get a "major service" done

Just what is actually needed for a Major service at that sort of mileage?

I am going to definitely get the shims checked/adjusted and the carbs synched/balanced but what other stuff should I look at getting done?

Basically since I have had her I have just done the usual stuff myself, like change oil and oil filters, replaced plugs, leads and brake pads.

I have replaced shock, fork springs/oil, replaced chains and sprockets, cleaned/changed the air filter, replaced the steering head bearings, adjusted cables, adjusted headlight etc

I am thinking I should get the coolant changed and the brakes/clutch bled as well :icon_think:

Anything else that anyone can think of that I should get done by a mechanic? Can't see anything on the service schedule below :?

At a pinch I could do the brake/clutch bleed and coolant change but figure I may as well get the mechanic to do it while he's at it

[jon haney]

Hopefully the previous owner changed the coolant and put in new clutch and brake fluid at least once. Definitely do these.

If the clutch plates are original, I would check them for wear. Also might want to have a compression check done. If the compression is a little low, do a leak-down test. Valve seats are like bearings. When they start to go bad, they get real bad, real fast. A simple valve job is a lot cheaper than new valves and seats.

[JB4XX]

wheel bearings?

[Para045]

wheel bearings?

I have tried wiggling the WB's when the wheels have been off and also while on the CS and there doesn't seem to be any play in them, likewise the swingarm bearings :icon_think:

As Jon said I may get the compression checked while he is doing the shim checks, the clutch still seems OK, no slip as yet I could take the cover of myself and check the plates I suppose :icon_think:

I was I guess more just thinking of anything fiddly and a bit technical which the mechanic needed to look at and do, I have a fairly good mechanical knowledge, have rebuilt a few V8's and a 2ST MX engine over the years but stuff like doing the shims and balancing carbs requires a bit special equipment I don't have or more stuffing around that I don't have time for

She's running well generally although the economy has gone down a bit and she stutters a little at idle when really cold which is why I thought she may be due a bal/sync Plugs are only 15 000km old Iridiums

I may get him to do the brake bleed as well as it seems like bit of a pain in the arse, have done cars/trucks before but that requires 2 people and less fiddling around :icon_think:

[xxexcess]

Brake fluid is easy i followed these instructions from another XX site and it worked a treat, the only thing i will add is that i didn't have to remove the rear cowl to do the rear brakes, i used a small plastic funnel with a 3 inch piece of hose on it to get down into the rear reservoir.

Open fron reservoir and draw out most of the old fluid (I use a turkey baster but over to you). Top up the res with new fluid. Crack the front left top bleed nipple and (I personally) put 6 full reservoirs of new fluid down there.

Next is the front right top nipple and 6 full res's through there as well. Then you can seal up the front res and move to the rear.

Draw out most of the excess old fluid from the rear res. Top up with new fluid and get down to the front right lower nipple. With the bleeding Mrs operating thr rear brake lever (again personally) I put 20 res's through there (it's a long line).

Next the front left lower nipple gets another 20 res's.

Then to the rear caliper and the nipple on top get s 5 res's first, as does the nipple pointing backwards straight after.

The rest of the new fluid goes down the clutch line using the same routine.

No doubt folks will think I've overdone the fluid quantities and I actually have, but I'm not using it for anything else. I noticed that the xx has plenty of fluid in the system to deal with wearing brake pads, so if it needs a topping up, then there's a fault so the system gets a full bleed. Brake fluid doesn't keep well once opened anyway. I actually think half a litre would do the job, but for a £3 saving errrrm--Sod it :mrgreen:

Assuming the seat cowling is off (it's the only bodywork that has to be removed) expect the bleed to take 3/4 of an hour to and hour if you're being extra cautious. I should also say that bleeding the system from empty (line change etc) is a lot more time consuming and has added complications, but for a straight swap, it isn't hard- but obviously, avoid air getting in there at all costs