xxexcess

You can use honda car coolant it's the same stuff they put in the bikes, personally i wouldn't run with just water, coolant contains anti corrosion additives it's there for a reason.

Depends how horny the wife is.............................

it's riveted but thats no big problem, looking down them with a torch earlier today looks like one of pipes/baffles is in about 2 or 3 pieces so re packing isn't going to help that one.

My 96 XX has carbon oval yoshi rs3's on it, now the problem is that on both exhuasts there is/was in the centre a metal pipe this has snapped off and is now floating around inside the can. I can't pull it out because the end is flared and the pipe is straight and also has to go out of the tip of the exhaust which is at an angle. What to do with these??? they make an annoying metallic tingling sound at certain rpm's / gears, if i can get them out what will happen to the can's other than being loud (they are now) i can't think that these bit's of pipe are actually doing anything now. Thanks Iain

blimey that's cheap

so what kinda price do you guys buy them for in the US then?? Iain

I have a brand new in the bag double green dot cct complete with washer, bolts and gasket for sale, never used, bag never opened $60.00 inc shipping. Paypal no probs with me, any questions drop me a line NOW SOLD Iain

Brake fluid is easy i followed these instructions from another XX site and it worked a treat, the only thing i will add is that i didn't have to remove the rear cowl to do the rear brakes, i used a small plastic funnel with a 3 inch piece of hose on it to get down into the rear reservoir. Open fron reservoir and draw out most of the old fluid (I use a turkey baster but over to you). Top up the res with new fluid. Crack the front left top bleed nipple and (I personally) put 6 full reservoirs of new fluid down there. Next is the front right top nipple and 6 full res's through there as well. Then you can seal up the front res and move to the rear. Draw out most of the excess old fluid from the rear res. Top up with new fluid and get down to the front right lower nipple. With the bleeding Mrs operating thr rear brake lever (again personally) I put 20 res's through there (it's a long line). Next the front left lower nipple gets another 20 res's. Then to the rear caliper and the nipple on top get s 5 res's first, as does the nipple pointing backwards straight after. The rest of the new fluid goes down the clutch line using the same routine. No doubt folks will think I've overdone the fluid quantities and I actually have, but I'm not using it for anything else. I noticed that the xx has plenty of fluid in the system to deal with wearing brake pads, so if it needs a topping up, then there's a fault so the system gets a full bleed. Brake fluid doesn't keep well once opened anyway. I actually think half a litre would do the job, but for a £3 saving errrrm--Sod it :mrgreen: Assuming the seat cowling is off (it's the only bodywork that has to be removed) expect the bleed to take 3/4 of an hour to and hour if you're being extra cautious. I should also say that bleeding the system from empty (line change etc) is a lot more time consuming and has added complications, but for a straight swap, it isn't hard- but obviously, avoid air getting in there at all costs

I have similar problem but not on the bike, i installed hid's onto my audi a6, if i am using the cd player when i put the lights on it stops the cd and throws an error code on the radio. I wonder why???? by the sounds of things it's the same effect with your bike hid's.

Just done mine yesterday didn't remove the screen, yup the screws on the reservoirs are very picky with regards to which screwdriver works best. As a tip you don't have remove the rear cowl to get to the rear reservoir, i undid the cap with a pair of long nosed pliers, refilling i borrowed from the kitchen a small funnel and then pushed that into a 3 inch or so piece of old washing machine hose, using that i can get the flid into the reservoir between the cowl and the frame. Iain

Most of the oil will be in the sump anyway, filters should only be put on hand tight not with a wrench and don't forget to put smear of oil on the rubber sealing ring

Be carefull with the downpipes from these guys they don't fit great and can cause fuelling probs on carb birds

I am glad you got to the bottom of the problem and all is well.

Injection blackbirds do run hotter than the carb versions, I was using my carb bird last year in cyprus in summer months and that got really hot in traffic, hottest i have ever seen it, once out on the opne road the temps dropped pretty fast. I appreciate if you do most of your riding in the city then the bike is going to be hot most of the time. Iain

Any chance of a pic of this valve??? never knew it had something like that, i have just had a quick look through the workshop manual and it doesn't mention anything about this. For overheating it does mention, bad radiator cap, bad thermostat, faulty water pump etc etc.

If you can get to a Honda bike or car dealer the correct coolant part no is 08C50C321S01 , the cars use the same stuff as bikes and it's pre mixed. Iain

So are you running pure coolant, or just water or a mixture of both??? I am not clear from your description. How did you drain and refill the coolant??? as per workshop manual??? Was the bike running hot before you changed the coolant?? Iain

Just wanted to say that the coolant honda use in their cars is the same as bikes, bought some today from my local honda car dealer after verifying the part no with the honda bike guys. Iain

Well after some hunting around i found a shop that does K&N swapped in the new filter threw the paper one in the corner of the garage and went for blast, no flat spot and pulls like a train again. I guess it proves that K&N do flow more air, thanks to all who replied. iain

Thanks for the advice, the filter i have now is a filtrex paper filter, and how and where do i find the fuel screws?? Iain

Bit of background to this, i have just moved out of the uk to sunny climes down to the mediteranean, before i left the uk i had changed the air filter from a k&n to another brand called filtrex ever since then i had slight flat spot at low rpm high gear situations. since i have moved the flat spot is even worse now say in 6th gear 2.5k rpm it just splutters when i open the throttle, it gets worse as i go higher up into the hills/mountains, i can go from sea level to 1700ft in 40mins riding and need to change down at least 1 or sometimes 2 gears lower than i would do normally. Ambient air temps here are around mid 30 degs c if that helps so 90 plus in f. I appreciate that the higher you go the less air there is. the exhaust tips are sooty after even an hours riding which i never had before either. I had the tank off today to find that airbox had come loose over the carbs and the rubbers below the carbs where there are some further hose type clips were also not very tight, dodn't make a lot of difference to it's running. Ok so the question is should i change back to k&n or pipercross which is available locally and am i looking at a re jet or at the bare minimum a carb tune/balalnce. The bike was previously re jetted to get over the infamous flat spot from the factory with the K&n filter that i changed out. oh one final thing i can start the bike without the choke from cold eh wtf????? If i do need to rejet what do you guys recommend??? and any other tips from you guys that ride in the hot states. Sorry for the long post but i have tried to give as much info as i have. thanks for reading Iain

Some types of plastic can be brought back with the use of a hot air gun, done this a few times on old non painted plastic car bumpers and trim. iain

Errr pilot error, put the vac line on the petcock in the wrong place, duh. Why have 2 that look the same i will never know. Thanks Iain

right having just changed the plugs and air filter it's now struggling to run, misfires, backfires, farts and pops, when i open the throttle it cuts out. what the fcuk have i done wrong here, the vac lines,fuel lines are on in the right places fuel tap is on i have checked that i haven't got a plug lead round the wrong way all ok. Seems to run better when the choke is on, i have made sure the filter box is sitting on the carbs ok and that the rubber rings are tight over the carb tops too. Iain

Having now checked this out further, it seems my Y pipe is absolutely right however there is no answer as to Y it's like this, thanks guys for the help iain