Zero Knievel Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 As you probably know, RAM mounts does not make a very effective RAM mount for the center hole on a CBR1100XX. Odd since it's such a prime place to put one for a camera/GPS mount. Well, this thread shows how to do it, but to keep this in one place, here's a recap. A big THANK YOU to RichardCranium for posting the original thread. Take Ram Ball to the hardware store with you: [Part No. RAM-B-309-3U from Express Mounts USA - http://www.expressmounts.com/ ) At any hardware store, buy: Piece of threaded rod (that fits the ram ball), A fender washer (fits the rod) Nylon stop nut which fits the rod, Regular nut (fits the rod), 12 mm flange nut (threads won't fit the rod) [Flanged Hex Nut - Grade 5 - 1/4-20] (If you can't find a flange nut, you can substitute a 12 mm nut and a washer that is larger than the 12 mm hole) Off all of these parts, I found the 12 mm flange nut is the HARDEST to find. The local stores didn't have anyone knowledgeable enough to help me find what I was looking for, but I did manage to find this nut in my dad's "bucket o' bolts" that he tosses spare parts into. [edit] Below are the pics from the job I did. The first is of the finished ball end. From RIGHT to LEFT, I screwed on the RAM part on the rod (and used blue threadlocker); then a lock washer; then the inverted 12 mm flange nut; finally the regular nut (with blue threadlocker). In my case, the 12 mm nut was looser than the threaded rod. I pressed in a copper sleeve to take out the slack, but I could have used anything like a piece of electrical or Teflon tape to do that job. This part is together so tight nothing should work loose. The second is the whole rod after cutting. As you can see, from the tip of the ball to the end of the rod, you won't need more than 12 1/4 inches. The third is how it looks installed. Small and clean. The fourth is how the rod is secures from the bottom. For my bike, I chose to remove the horn (12 mm wrench) and the mounting bracket (10 mm wrench on two bolts) to move things out of my way. I used two fender washers and the nylon stop nut. Then I put the mounting bracket and horn back on. It should be possible to do this step without dismounting anything, but for me, it is a tight space to work in, and it was easier to do this than keep fumbling around things. If this thread should be in a special DIY section, feel free to move it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 I'm confused. Why not just use the ram stem mount? I used it on my XX w/o real issue. You just have to take the large cap off first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 If you're talking about this part... http://www.expressmounts.com/item-ram-moun...all/ramb342.htm ...it just doesn't work on the CBR1100XX. Or, at least that has been my experience. I tried it and returned it. It is intended to fit into a hole and then expand out to secure the ball in place, and IIRC, the one I got would not have fit the width of the hole with the cap removed. What I got was shaky at best. This concept fits the 12mm hex hole perfectly and it is solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrganDonor Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Nope, he's talking about the older stem mount from RAM. I can't find it on their website, but it's looks just like the second picture you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wockman Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Good write up, I've been looking at the other threads to figure out what parts I'd need to put a ball on the stem. I was all set to order the expanding rubber base (RAM-B-342U) until I saw this thread. You don't happen to remember the thread size for the rod? That way I can buy the other stuff while I'm waiting on the ram parts to come in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardCranium Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 I just remembered. We didn't use a flange nut for mine. We used two regular nuts and sandwiched a washer in between. Works really well and keeps the all-thread perfectly centered since the bottom nut sits right in the hex shaped hole on the steering stem cap. I do not remember the thread size though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 I just remembered. We didn't use a flange nut for mine. We used two regular nuts and sandwiched a washer in between. I would have done that had I not found the flange nut. A washer between the ball and the 12 mm nut would have done the job just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wockman Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 You don't happen to remember the thread size for the rod? That way I can buy the other stuff while I'm waiting on the ram parts to come in... I picked up the rod and other parts today, the threads are 1/4 20, I also found the flange nut at Lowes. All the parts cost me about $6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 What was the specs on the flange nut (labeling on the package)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wockman Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 What was the specs on the flange nut (labeling on the package)? The package just says "Flanged Hex Nuts - Grade 5 - 1/4-20". The brand is "Hillman" they came 3 to a pack, I think it was 90 cents or so... It fit perfectly in the hex hole on the triple tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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