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FI Bird won't start


bpg

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The scenario - all lights come on like normal, bike cranks over like a champ, fuel pump whirs, FI light stays on :icon_confused: (as does fuel pump - more about that in a bit), but just won't fire.

To make a long story short, a month ago my fuel pump wasn't coming on after an R1 R/R swap, so: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=56548

(speed reader excerpt): ...with everything else wired in normally, disconnecting the FUEL CUT-OFF relay and bridging the Brown to Black/white terminals together, the fuel pump works w/ key on! However, it stays on continuously... My thought is to order a new relay, and bridge the terminals in the meantime... Still don't know why the fuel pump stays on...

Bike worked fine like this, did a few long trips, then last Thursday it just quit on me in the driveway, hasn't started ever since.

I'm not sure if the problem is related to the bridged relay - can I just use a regular Bosch-style relay to replace the OEM fuel cut-off relay - to at least eliminate that from the equation?

Thanks for any suggestions - electronics are not my strongest suit, but I am patient and will plug on until I find the problem - just need some starting steps!

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I am not sure, but check the diode to make sure it is good, it is by the starter relay and may be causing your problem. I am guessing. VOM to make sure that continuity is only one way.

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Its so hard to do distance diagnosing...wish we could help more.

I think you need to step back to basics with this one.

It ran and quit.

It spins over fine, no big noises, so there's no reason to suspect anything major mechanical. Rule out compression.

It had been running just fine, its doubtful your air cleaner suddenly became clogged.

That leaves spark, and fuel.

Squirt some starting fluid in the intake runners (keep it off the paint, and don't look down the tube while you're cranking). If its a fuel issue, it will fire. If it doesn't fire, its an electrical issue.

Then you are sure where to concentrate your efforts.

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Squirt some starting fluid in the intake runners (keep it off the paint, and don't look down the tube while you're cranking). If its a fuel issue, it will fire. If it doesn't fire, its an electrical issue.

Ditto, I like that idea.

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My hunch is that an electrical issue is causing the fuel issue - I'll try your idea and report back - rommate has the "operation bay" of the garage clogged up with his dirtbike right now...

As I said in the other thread, my cheapy voltmeter was reading 18-20VDC as I was coming home that evening.. All fuses are good though :icon_confused:

What do you think about me by-passing the "Fuel Cut-Off Relay", does that aid in the diagnosis??

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What do you think about me by-passing the "Fuel Cut-Off Relay", does that aid in the diagnosis??

Hmmm, could that flood the motor before it gets started? If it's been sitting a few days then you still can't fire it right up right away, then probably not. I'm no expert though, just more food for thought for the real experts. :icon_biggrin:

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I am not sure, but check the diode to make sure it is good, it is by the starter relay and may be causing your problem. I am guessing. VOM to make sure that continuity is only one way.

I (actually!) kinda understand what you mean - what does the diode look like/are there any places where it's best to touch the VOM probes to test it? Might have to get a better VOM, never really liked the inconsistency of mine in ohm mode (or maybe it was operator error) :icon_confused::icon_cool:

Thanks!

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I have been needing to shoot some pictures,as I think this is a possible problem for some here. It looks like a blade fuse and pulls out like that. Think it is in with the fuses, but will go and look. you will pull it out and touch the ohm meter to the terminal blades and one way will show cont, and the other will show open.

Back later.

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