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timing retard, speed restrictor, exhaust


SWAMPRATPARA

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I see the Ivan's timing retard eliminator for other bikes, so is there one for the blackbird? Which slipons are the best bang for the buck?

My bird hits the restriction in the middle of 5th, sure would like to see what the top of 11000 rpm's in 6th would bring.

:icon_twisted:

So would the rest of us....at least those of us without turbochargers.

Lets start with what country are you in?

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I see the Ivan's timing retard eliminator for other bikes, so is there one for the blackbird? Which slipons are the best bang for the buck?

My bird hits the restriction in the middle of 5th, sure would like to see what the top of 11000 rpm's in 6th would bring.

:icon_twisted:

Hits the restriction in the middle of 5th? What restriction are you meaning?

In case you have a carbed Bird you can get a better low and midrange response by putting in an ignition advancer sprocket instead of the stock ignintion timing sprocket. I did that on my Bird and the throttle response improved noticeably, as also other have experienced.

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If you have an FI Bird, there is no way to advance the timing that I am aware of unless you can manufacture your own timing rotor. :icon_wall:

Someone please tell me I''m wrong. :icon_pray:

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If you have an FI Bird, there is no way to advance the timing that I am aware of unless you can manufacture your own timing rotor. :icon_wall:

Someone please tell me I''m wrong. :icon_pray:

Perhaps there is a way, you may look and see if this work. On the carbed bike the ignition pulse pickup is located on the right motor casing. As I could see when I installed the adjustable rotor, I could have enlarged the mounting holes for the pickup instead and made it adjustable. If the basic solution is the same on FI bikes it will probably work.

Another factor is that the ignition curve is already advanced 3 degrees on FI bikes vs. carbed bikes, so there is less margin for further advance. Personally I would leave the ignition curve as is on a FI bike, you need to have some margin for pinging. When I installed the adjustable advancer on my carbed bike, I did set it to +3 degrees only since the compression also was raised, and I also used premium fuel most of the time. It didn't ping on regual fuel, which was the only fuel available at occasions, but the margin could not have been much. FI-bikes has a knock-sensor, so the engine will not be destroyed in case the ignition curve is slightly too agressive, but then the ingnition curve will be retarded by the ECU, thus basically eliminating the added ignition advance.

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Perhaps there is a way, you may look and see if this work. On the carbed bike the ignition pulse pickup is located on the right motor casing. As I could see when I installed the adjustable rotor, I could have enlarged the mounting holes for the pickup instead and made it adjustable. If the basic solution is the same on FI bikes it will probably work.

Another factor is that the ignition curve is already advanced 3 degrees on FI bikes vs. carbed bikes, so there is less margin for further advance. Personally I would leave the ignition curve as is on a FI bike, you need to have some margin for pinging. When I installed the adjustable advancer on my carbed bike, I did set it to +3 degrees only since the compression also was raised, and I also used premium fuel most of the time. It didn't ping on regual fuel, which was the only fuel available at occasions, but the margin could not have been much. FI-bikes has a knock-sensor, so the engine will not be destroyed in case the ignition curve is slightly too agressive, but then the ingnition curve will be retarded by the ECU, thus basically eliminating the added ignition advance.

I thought about that, but Honda didn't leave enough metal around the holes to safely and/or significantly make much of a change. The pulse pickup also has centering dowel pins that would have to be cut off. Too many worries for me.

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As I could see when I installed the adjustable rotor,

So I have seen these adjustable ignition rotors on eBay etc, anyone know whether they are an advantage for a stock XX or a waste of time? :icon_think:

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As I could see when I installed the adjustable rotor,

So I have seen these adjustable ignition rotors on eBay etc, anyone know whether they are an advantage for a stock XX or a waste of time? :icon_think:

The ignition curve is too tame on a stock carbed Bird. I think you will be happy with the result if you install an advancer. The bike will be more responsive on low to mid rpm's. You may also find that you can use a higher gear than before in many situations. In case the bike is completely stock, you should do fine with a fixed 4 degree advancer as long as you don't run on bad fuel or use a 18 T sprocket front.

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The ignition curve is too tame on a stock carbed Bird. I think you will be happy with the result if you install an advancer. The bike will be more responsive on low to mid rpm's. You may also find that you can use a higher gear than before in many situations. In case the bike is completely stock, you should do fine with a fixed 4 degree advancer as long as you don't run on bad fuel or use a 18 T sprocket front.

Thanks for that, fuel is fine here in West Aus, normally run on 95 RON PULP although she runs fine on 91 RON and at the moment we don't have Ethanol blends :icon_biggrin: Was running a 17/44 combo now a 16/46 and the bike is a lot more responsive than before and can run a higher gear (goes like stink :icon_evilgrin: )

Does it affect the fuel economy and what is involved in fitting it? :icon_confused:

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Thanks for that, fuel is fine here in West Aus, normally run on 95 RON PULP although she runs fine on 91 RON and at the moment we don't have Ethanol blends :icon_biggrin: Was running a 17/44 combo now a 16/46 and the bike is a lot more responsive than before and can run a higher gear (goes like stink :icon_evilgrin: )

Does it affect the fuel economy and what is involved in fitting it? :icon_confused:

The fuel consumption will go down some with an advancer sprocket since the fuel will be more effectively burned (the ignition pulse comes earlier), and you can use slightly less throttle vs. before in many situations for the same degree of power. The installation is very simple. Remove the engine cover over the timing sprocket on the right side. Remove the stock timing sprocket and secure the new one using the same bolt as before. I used the adjustable advancer sprocket from Factory Pro, and the washer under the bolt shall be omitted with this unit since it is thicker than the stock sprocket. I secured it with blue Loctite and torqued the bolt to spec. Put a new gasket or a paper-thin layer of engine silicone on the engine cover mating surface, screw it into place and you are ready to launch.

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I had one from Factory Pro on my '98. I got the adjustable 6degree one and started whole hog at +6degrees. It worked well with the K&N & Yoshi slip ons, but I had to always use 96-98 RON fuel or it would ping all the time. No problem, I also used to get ~20kpL (19.5 to best of ~22).

Only problem was I then couldn't get the bolt out to adjust it back down :( so I was stuck at +6.

Oh yes, the 3 changes above also completely got rid of the dip in the power curve and I had a dead flat torque of 120-122Nm between 3k & 10k as checked on a dyno. (Unfortunately, I have lost the print out.)

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I see the Ivan's timing retard eliminator for other bikes, so is there one for the blackbird? Which slipons are the best bang for the buck?

My bird hits the restriction in the middle of 5th, sure would like to see what the top of 11000 rpm's in 6th would bring.

:icon_twisted:

NVM, spark plugs were bad, because after the post it wouldnt start until I replaced them........if it were at the machanics shop it would act right, the problem is fixed nonetheless.....too windy today to goto ludacrous speed .....will hit my gps tomorrow and see though....

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