BigMig Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Is there anything I should do to the new chain while it's off the bike? It's easier to clean/treat off the cycle...Or just lube it once it's installed? Not going to start a "lube war" or anything...but I'm going with Blue label PJ1 Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testrider Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Is there anything I should do to the new chain while it's off the bike? It's easier to clean/treat off the cycle...Or just lube it once it's installed? Not going to start a "lube war" or anything...but I'm going with Blue label PJ1 Mike I don't clean a new chain as it came from the factory fully oiled and lubed (DID ZVM2). After installing it, I usually sprayed an additional light coat of lube on it. I have used the Blue label PJ1 before and I didn't like it. After spraying it on the chain and after it dried off, it left a very sticky residue like superglue and all kind of junks stuck to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 I typically use a kerosene-soaked rag to wipe the gunk off the chain. That stuff makes everything stick to it, but I have a Pro-Oiler, so lube isn't a worry for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 I'd hope your new chain came clean.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 I installed a new Stealth Tri Metal 46T rear and 16T front with a DID 530ZVM2 and just ran a little extra engine oil along the chain and rear sprocket while spinning the rear wheel I will be getting a Scottoiler ASAP to keep it top notch :icon_think: The lower gearing makes it go like fuck now and has gotten rid of the problem I had of not being sure whether to be in 1st or 2nd for a corner, now I can leave it in 2nd and power out nicely or even use 3rd Not sure on the effect on the speed readings yet but there doesn't seem much difference from before with the 17/44 I mean at 4000rpm before I was at ~120kmh now at 4000 it is ~118-119kmh so not much change I would have expected a bigger change :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 BigMig, I found that the heavy coat of factory lube on the EK 530 ZZZ I put on last fall, all slung off the chain on the first couple of fairly short rides. It was a little bit of a gooey mess to clean up compared to the chain wax I typically use. The EK lube ended up dripping out of the front sprocket cover, down the side-stand, and all over the rear wheel and tire sidewall (where it was hard to get off). That said, I think it would have been difficult to clean it off the chain without using some pretty strong cleaner and a lot of rubbing, which I don't think would have been good for the x-rings or rollers. When it got through slinging off, I just started with my usual lube ritual with the Superclean chain wax. Para045, How are you determining your speed? With the speedometer or GPS or ?? If you are going by your speedometer, it doesn't know you've changed anything since it gets its signal before the primary output shaft to the front sprocket. Your final drive ratio originally was 17/44=.386, while your current final drive ratio is now 16/46=.348. If your speedometer was correct before (IF!), you should now be running 90% (.348/.386) of your original speed, or 108 kmh at a speedometer indicated 120 kmh. Depending on what kind of error you had before, your actual speed and odometer readings may be pretty far off now. If you really want to know how fast you are running without doing the math, it might be time for a SpeedoHealer or some other speedo correction box and a GPS for calibrating it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 The first 300 miles usually takes care of the 'factory lube'. The first cleaning takes care of the rest. Just run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Para045, How are you determining your speed? With the speedometer or GPS or ?? If you are going by your speedometer, it doesn't know you've changed anything since it gets its signal before the primary output shaft to the front sprocket. Your final drive ratio originally was 17/44=.386, while your current final drive ratio is now 16/46=.348. If your speedometer was correct before (IF!), you should now be running 90% (.348/.386) of your original speed, or 108 kmh at a speedometer indicated 120 kmh. Depending on what kind of error you had before, your actual speed and odometer readings may be pretty far off now. If you really want to know how fast you are running without doing the math, it might be time for a SpeedoHealer or some other speedo correction box and a GPS for calibrating it. Basically I was guessing my speed by what revs I am doing on the tacho That is why I expected there to be a bigger difference between the tacho and the speedo now Does the tacho also get signal from the same place? That would explain the almost no change in revs to speedo :icon_think: I have not tried using any other means of working out the speed yet (don't own a GPS), was going to try and get the missus to "pace me" in the car to get an idea :icon_think: I have worked out the Odo is off as I checked it against some road mileage (kilometreage?) markers that were supposed to be 10km apart and the Odo said I had travelled ~11.1km Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 The way we do it here is mile a min is 60 miles per hour. Guess that would work in k's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 I have worked out the Odo is off as I checked it against some road mileage (kilometreage?) markers that were supposed to be 10km apart and the Odo said I had travelled ~11.1km That sounds about right because the factory odometer is typically pretty close to correct, even though the speedometer usually is optomistic from the factory. If you apply the same 90% final drive ratio change correction factor to your odometer reading, .90x11.1km = 9.9km actually traveled. The tach(o) doesn't get its signal from the same location, but since the engine rpm and the sensor on the transmission output for the speedometer/odometer are in lock-step, depending on what gear you're in (and assuming no clutch slippage), they stay in fixed synch with each other. Therefore, if you do use a speedometer correction device to fix the speedo readout, the odometer will then be off by about the amount of correction factor you apply to the speedo. That is because both the odometer and the speedometer use the same signal to advance themselves within the instrument pod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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