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Easy way to recess pistons in front brake caliper ??


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Is there any easy way to recess the pistons in the front calipers ? There are three pistons for each caliper & dont think a C-clamp will fit in ??

Trying to install new brake pads but the old brake pads were worn way way down causing the pistons to be extended a little to far to even fit the new pads, much less the rotor.

Thanks

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I took two pieces of iron bars and put one on the back, and the other on the pistons. Then I used 2 c clamps and squeezed the two together at the ends. This sandwiched the pistons together.

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I'm too lazy to try c-clamps... I just use a screwdriver and pry on the OLD pads... before I remove them from the caliper to begin with. You could put them back in, and then go that route.

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Thanks for the replys, I used 2 pieces of steel & the sandwich method with c-clamps, but I could easily see using the old pads & a screw driver to get it done. The pistons dont require as much force as I initially expected.

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I'm too lazy to try c-clamps... I just use a screwdriver and pry on the OLD pads... before I remove them from the caliper to begin with. You could put them back in, and then go that route.

This^^^^^

Or remove one caliper and use channel locks carefully on the old pad and body, rinse and repeat. If your pads are that worn you may want to make sure there's no scoring on the rotors.

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I'm too lazy to try c-clamps... I just use a screwdriver and pry on the OLD pads... before I remove them from the caliper to begin with. You could put them back in, and then go that route.

I'm with Hobi on this one. Of course, I loosen the bleeder(s) before I press them in. Opening the bleeders allows the old fluid that may contain particles (gravity takes em to the low spot) to be removed, and makes it easy to press them in. Don't forget to top off with clean fluid. I always flush all the fluid when doing pads. FYI it is recommended to do this on any cars that have ABS systems. Wouldn't want that trash being forced into the little tiny orifices of the Abs block (non serviceable). Don't worry, i imagine only 10% of people that call themselves mechanics actually bother.

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I would also suggest you degrunge the pistons prior to pushing them back into the bores. The accumulated crud around the exposed piston surface is pretty hard on the caliper seals and the dust seals. You can use a soft nylon brush and some rubber- safe solvent to get the majority of the surfaces clean.

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  • 3 years later...
I would also suggest you degrunge the pistons prior to pushing them back into the bores. The accumulated crud around the exposed piston surface is pretty hard on the caliper seals and the dust seals. You can use a soft nylon brush and some rubber- safe solvent to get the majority of the surfaces clean.

Sorry for bumping a 4 year old thread, but why start a new one?

I need to replace my rear pads. First time fore me on an XX but it seems pretty normal despite the fancy linked gizmo. I here looking and typing because I've noticed a lot of gunk on my rearmost piston and was wondering what was the best way to remove it. A couple shots of brake cleaner have it looking better but there is still some light rust looking crud on there.

I do have all sorts of brushes, but am unsure of what rubber safe solvent to use. Anyone have any specific suggestions?

Thanks

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I'm too lazy to try c-clamps... I just use a screwdriver and pry on the OLD pads... before I remove them from the caliper to begin with. You could put them back in, and then go that route.

+1

Or use a scrap piece of wood (those cheap shims do well) as a cushion between the screwdriver and the pistons.

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I do have all sorts of brushes, but am unsure of what rubber safe solvent to use. Anyone have any specific suggestions?

Two basic solvents for motorcycle work.

1. Brake parts cleaner.

2. Kerosine/diesel.

Kerosine is safe for rubber (clean chain and rear wheel without worry about it splattering on tire). Dissolves grease and oil but won't break down rubber.

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Two basic solvents for motorcycle work.

1. Brake parts cleaner.

2. Kerosine/diesel.

Kerosine is safe for rubber (clean chain and rear wheel without worry about it splattering on tire). Dissolves grease and oil but won't break down rubber.

Thanks NZG. I have and use them both of those on the bike already ... I gues I was just wondering if there was some secret magical fluid to use on the bike that everyone else but me knew about.

I'm going to need to remove the caliper to clean this thing I'm thinking so as to keep the rotor clean ... I'm hoping I can get it off without having to push the cruddy piston in too far; don't want to knick the seals and end up with a leak. Maye I can clean it up a bit on the bike and clean the rotor afterwards.

Holy crap, I'm totally talking to myself here, wtf.

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Two basic solvents for motorcycle work.

1. Brake parts cleaner.

2. Kerosine/diesel.

Kerosine is safe for rubber (clean chain and rear wheel without worry about it splattering on tire). Dissolves grease and oil but won't break down rubber.

Thanks NZG. I have and use them both of those on the bike already ... I gues I was just wondering if there was some secret magical fluid to use on the bike that everyone else but me knew about.

I'm going to need to remove the caliper to clean this thing I'm thinking so as to keep the rotor clean ... I'm hoping I can get it off without having to push the cruddy piston in too far; don't want to knick the seals and end up with a leak. Maye I can clean it up a bit on the bike and clean the rotor afterwards.

Holy crap, I'm totally talking to myself here, wtf.

Also use hot water and hand/dish soap to clean and Pledge to polish plastics.

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Once you remove the caliper, you can slide the pads away from the buttons without removing them from the caliper. That should give you ample room to clean them before pushing them back.

Removing the pads isn't overly difficult, it's one pin to pull and they drop right out. You can always remove the old pads, clean the buttons, re-install the old pads to use to push them back, then pull them out and put new pads in. We're talking about a minute or two for the swap, and, of course, practice makes perfect.

While you've got the pads out, it's worth cleaning not just the buttons, the the end away from the pin hanger, where they fit into a clip. That can get gunked up and keep them from sliding smoothly.

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