HamrTym Posted August 12, 2008 Share Posted August 12, 2008 Is this the correct way of burping the system after coolant replacement? Fill up radiator with coolant of choice until full. Start engine and let idle, without cap off radiator. Allow bike to come up to temp idling. When coolant starts to drop, slowly add coolant to keep level up to filller neck. Once coolant stays nice and pretty much level at the neck, while thermostat is opening and closing during heat cycling. If I missed anything or have any tips to suggest, let me know. Thanks for your time. Rob P.S. While flushing the system, my dumb ass forgot about the 10mm bolt on the fron left of the block to completely drain slipped my mind. But I did flush the system with 3 full gallons of distilled water. Basically I filled, heat cycled, and drain the system 3 times. Then filled and burped the system with water and water wetter. That should have completely flushed out the anti-freeze, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I see nothing wrong, but do it on the side stand not the center stand, well on the bike, cause the quad is, well you know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrbear Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 keep in mind the system isnt sealed, it has a bleed off for over flow so air can escape through there. What I usually do is fill the system up, then I squeeze the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the pump then that makes sure there is no air in the inlet to the pump and then I top it back off, go ride it around then check the overflow and rad levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 If I don't have an air bleed nipple, I just let the overflow tank handle it. Air blows out. Fluid gets sucked back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 If I don't have an air bleed nipple, I just let the overflow tank handle it. Air blows out. Fluid gets sucked back in. As long as enough pressure builds to open the cap that will work. I think our caps are rated in the area of 16 to 20 lbs. It's somewhere in the manual. With the engine running at temp. and the radiator cap off blip the throttle a few times until the air bubbles stop popping out. Then you have purged the air out and you're ready to put it all back together, and don't have to worry about it for a couple of years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobicus Posted August 13, 2008 Share Posted August 13, 2008 I usually fill it slowly, making a point of squeezing and lifting the upper radiator hose to burp out as much air as I can. Once it's full, I start it with the radiator cap OFF, and blip the throttle a bunch of times, which allows the pump to move the water from the radiator into the engine, and the level drops in the radiator. I then top it off once again, and repeat the procedure until it's not going to take any more (or due to heat expansion wants to over flow). I then put the cap on, and start it up and let it come all the way up to temperature. If you have a digital temperature gauge, you can see when the thermostat opens up (usually around 176 degrees) because the temperature will bounce around at that temp for a while. IF it starts to climb big time, you most likely have an air bubble, and will need to shut it off (and theoretically wait for it to cool down, but I'm usually in a hurry and don't bother) and crack the cap to let out the hot air. Top up again and try it again, you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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