Basic DC Electrical Help ?

[BigMig]

I know that you need to make better connections when splicing wires in a dc application than in an ac setting.

I'm wondering if using the red butt splices that I have requires also using some conductor like dielectric grease? It seems that just using the splices and crushing each end isn't making a good connection.

Any ideas? I'm trying to get my tail lights straightened out for an inspection tomorrow AM.

Thanks,

M

[Redbird]

Solder. Every time.

BTW, dielectric grease doesn't conduct. Quite the opposite.

[BigMig]

Will it matter what kind of solder I use? I have 60/40 and 100% tin. Either sound appropriate?

[TPXX]

Will it matter what kind of solder I use? I have 60/40 and 100% tin. Either sound appropriate?

Only real difference is melting temp. I would go with the 60/40 myself.

[Mikey]

Resin core 60/40 will do well. Heat the ends up real well and let the solder melt on the wires and soak in (even flow). That's going to give you the best connection.

[Furbird]

Don't forget the heat shrink, or at least electrical tape.

Back when I used to do stereo systems in boats, we would solder, heat shrink, electrical tape, and wire tie both ends of the electrical tape to seal it up and keep it from unravelling.

Of course, by the same token, I've seen remote start car alarms installed with Scotchlocks (worst possible connection ever invented) that worked for 10 years with no problems.

I've also seen stereo equipment installed with just twist-and-tape, and also the great ones where it was twist-and-gorilla-snot, twist-and-RTV-sealant, and my personal favorite, twist-and-bubblegum.

[bpg]

+ whatever # we're up to on the solder - NEVER rely on anything else. It'll fail at the worst possible time...

I like to use the brush-on electrical tape over the soldered joint, then either heat shrink or elec. tape if I have to (in tight working quarters)

[traffic273]

Redbird.

You appear to a wizard on mechanical problems. I tried doing the FI light perminant fix on my injected bird via soldering a couple of days ago. When soldering the wires the solder kept on pooling on the top of the wire and then running off the joint onto the floor. What would cause this? Are you saying the best way to solder is to heat the joined wires alot then melt the solder so it runns through the joint? If so, I have a Snap-on Gas soldering iron would this tool be man enough for the job?

Thanks for taking the time to read

Steptoe.

[bartonmd]

Redbird.

You appear to a wizard on mechanical problems. I tried doing the FI light perminant fix on my injected bird via soldering a couple of days ago. When soldering the wires the solder kept on pooling on the top of the wire and then running off the joint onto the floor. What would cause this? Are you saying the best way to solder is to heat the joined wires alot then melt the solder so it runns through the joint? If so, I have a Snap-on Gas soldering iron would this tool be man enough for the job?

Thanks for taking the time to read

Steptoe.

What were you soldering with? Just a regular solderin iron, or even the gas operated iron are fine, as long as there is not a direct flame touching the wires. Slide your heat shrink up one side of the wire, far enough away that it won't get shrunk by the soldering heat. Twist the wires together in a Western Union Splice (end to end, NOT like you're going to use a household screw-on wire nut), then hold the soldering iron underneath both wires (touching only the wires), and then let the wires melt the solder. If the wires are hot enough to melt the solder, the solder will "flow" up both of the wires, and around the small cracks between them, where they are twisted together. If there is a ball at the bottom, AFTER the wires are coated, then you've used too much solder, but it's not a big deal at all... If you're going it right, any ball of extra solder should end up on the soldering iron itself.

If you're getting drops of solder running off of the unsoldered wires and onto the ground, you're probably using the soldering iron to melt the solder, not the wires... In which case, even if you do get it the solder to stay on the wires, it will be extremely weak, and what is called a "cold solder joint" where the solder is just sitting on the wires, and has not bonded to them at all.

MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU ONLY TOUCH THE SOLDER TO THE WIRES AND YOU WILL BE GOOD TO GO!

Mike

[Redbird]

Steptoe,

What Mike said.

Soldering iron heats the wires, wires melt the solder. Do that, and it should flow nicely into the whole connection.

[lew69442]

I know that you need to make better connections when splicing wires in a dc application than in an ac setting.

I'm wondering if using the red butt splices that I have requires also using some conductor like dielectric grease? It seems that just using the splices and crushing each end isn't making a good connection.

Any ideas? I'm trying to get my tail lights straightened out for an inspection tomorrow AM.

Thanks,

M

Regardless of and A/C or DC application bad connections = resistance/resistance=heat & increased current draw.

Any good marine store will offer shrink type butt connectors but and investment in good ratcheting crimpers will go a long way.

Dielectric grease is OK to use but if you are using tinned wire & connectors its not really necassary.

If I recall all the BB OEM wire is simple copper strand (not tinned) so tinning the wire that you strip with solder is a good idea before inserting it into a connector.

[Hooplehead]

I use those crimp connectors if there's room. Just peel the plastic off the barrel, crimp the wires and run flux into the connection. Solder the wire in the connector. I use a pocket torch and heat from the bottom, apply solder from the top. If you remember, shrink tube before crimping!(I forget that one sometimes.) Solder isn't supposed to be used as the mechanical connection, so I like to support it with a connector. I have heard that solder breaks over time due to vibration. I have tried electric tape in a bottle, never had much luck. Use 3m super 33+ electrical tape. Do not rely on tape or connectors alone, especially at the lights. The heat and current induce corrosion if you don't do it properly. Solder everytime! If the solder doesn't stick, you aint using enough flux or the solder is too hot and the connection isn't. Just my .02$

Before

After. Been 4yrs and no rewiring problems yet. I actually routed the entire harness around the engine to ease in removal later. What a bitch! Took about 15hrs!

[cbrxxquad]

some of the wires in the wire loom will not solder. They will have to be twisted, and dipped into a pool of liquid solder cup like a twist cap without the plastic cover. and let cool. then seal. I used rtv and heat shrink. I think they are the large wires and not green ground color.

[Iceman_40]

some of the wires in the wire loom will not solder. They will have to be twisted, and dipped into a pool of liquid solder cup like a twist cap without the plastic cover. and let cool. then seal. I used rtv and heat shrink. I think they are the large wires and not green ground color.

What the hell kind of wire is it if it can't be soldered?

I've soldered pretty much very kind of wire known to man, the thicker the wire the more heat needed. Thick wire I use a mini torch to solder as the iron just don't make the heat required. I've even used a propane torch to solder big wire 1-2 Gauge wire.

Always use Resin core 60/40 on the wires or you'll need to use flux to make real good solder joints.

[cbrxxquad]

some of the wires in the wire loom will not solder. They will have to be twisted, and dipped into a pool of liquid solder cup like a twist cap without the plastic cover. and let cool. then seal. I used rtv and heat shrink. I think they are the large wires and not green ground color.

What the hell kind of wire is it if it can't be soldered?

I've soldered pretty much very kind of wire known to man, the thicker the wire the more heat needed. Thick wire I use a mini torch to solder as the iron just don't make the heat required. I've even used a propane torch to solder big wire 1-2 Gauge wire.

Always use Resin core 60/40 on the wires or you'll need to use flux to make real good solder joints.

Stainless I think...

[Mekanix]

Dirty wire will not solder, nor will corroded (unless you use old acid core flux - if you can find it anymore). The oxidation will prevent the fresh, clean solder from sticking.

I melt the solder onto my two wires to be joined, put the wires together and flow the solder from them together, making a solid joint.

If my solder won't flow on the wire, I cut back or clean until I get to a spot it will flow onto.

Remember that electrons flow on top of the wire, not thru it. Dirty surfaces = poor electrical flow. always have clean wire to solder to if you can.

[Hobicus]

This might help:

http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/1...s/14027_122.htm