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Clutch engages really late


silverbird1100

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Like every problem I've had with my bikes, this one is probably my fault too.

Last year I was going to replace my clutch so I opened it up and found the plates were fine but I decided to replace the springs because it was feeling soft (my imagination I guess). I'm not entirely sure I put the plates and disks back in the exact order either. Anyway, it seems grabby and engaging at the end of the lever's travel, shifting like crap all year. Did I screw something up or what should I do here?

Thanks :icon_rolleyes:

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Like every problem I've had with my bikes, this one is probably my fault too.

Last year I was going to replace my clutch so I opened it up and found the plates were fine but I decided to replace the springs because it was feeling soft (my imagination I guess). I'm not entirely sure I put the plates and disks back in the exact order either. Anyway, it seems grabby and engaging at the end of the lever's travel, shifting like crap all year. Did I screw something up or what should I do here?

Thanks :icon_rolleyes:

The new springs puts more pressure on the hydrualic system. Try to put in new oil in the clutch system and bleed it carefully.

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So it's probably something I did to it right?

Doesn't matter. Like R1000 said, the stiffer springs could have caused the change. Also when the clutch was out the slave cylinder piston could have slid out allowing some air to get in. Although I'm not sure that's possible without unbolting the slave cylinder. Whatever the cause, change the fluid, bleed it. It's "likely" the problem and should be done at least every 24 months, if not once a year.

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I have two '99 Birds and both of their stock clutches have been grabby and engage real late. You can get more engagement adjustment from the stock lever by replacing the knurled adjustment nut with a regular hex nut. This was not easy. After-market levers are another way.

If you want clutch engagement to be way smoother at any RPM, call Brock Davidson Enterprises and get one of his "clutch cushions". You have to send him your inner clutch hub for machining, but it is well worth it especially if you drag race or just like to launch hard. It only cost me $100+shipping both ways, but that was several years ago.

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Late engagement is not caused by fluid problems. With air in the system the clutch will engage closer to the bar rather than away.

Changing fluid should be done once a year but will rarely cause problems other than corrosion. Fluid in brakes is different, they get hot enough to boil the water in the fluid resulting in no brakes.

Your problem is that for some reason there is less clearance on the throwout bearing (or no clearance). If this has only happened since you had the clutch apart I would look inside again.

A quick way to check is to pull the slave cylinder and push the piston back to the bottom of the bore, make sure the mastercylinder lid is off and that it does not overflow. Refit the slave cylinder and try the clutch. You should have to pump it a couple of times before the clutch works. If this happens the clearance on the rod is good and the problem is in the clutch itself. If there is no clearance I would still suspect the clutch. Look for anything that will change the position of the cover plate in relation to the release mechanism you are looking for something that will make it closer to the bearing.

The springs will only increase the load on the hydraulics they will not change the engagement position. If the springs were too heavy they will start to cause things to flex and bend which would cause the clutch to drag.

Good luck

JohnS

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I would bet you have the disc's/plate's in the wrong order, though that still dosent account for how it was operating prior to tear down.

It will not be the push rod assembly, simply because if the rod were to shorten ( from wear & tear) it would engage early not late, growing in lenght would be extremly unlikely.

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