blackhawkxx Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 That's what Motorcyclist magazine says anyway. "The best that they have ever used". I am always looking for a better way to tie my bike down to the trailer. A canyon dancer works but it has it's drawbacks. It is called cycle cynch. To me, it does look like it would work better. Has anyone tried it? http://cyclecynch.com/CCpages/CCinstall.html At the bottom right you will see Step: 1,2,3, etc. Go through and see the install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoloTSi97 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 That's what Motorcyclist magazine says anyway. "The best that they have ever used". I am always looking for a better way to tie my bike down to the trailer. A canyon dancer works but it has it's drawbacks. It is called cycle cynch. To me, it does look like it would work better. Has anyone tried it? http://cyclecynch.com/CCpages/CCinstall.html At the bottom right you will see Step: 1,2,3, etc. Go through and see the install. I have both. I bought a canyon dancer a long time ago, and when I got a second bike and needed a second tie-down, the local shop had the cycle cynch and no canyon dancer. So, I bought one. I like the cycle cynch much better than my canyon dancer. Due to the way it is designed, it does not pull inward and mess up the grips on my bikes like the canyon dancer tends to. Since I rarely tow both bikes at the same time, I still have (but rarely use) my canyon dancer ... otherwise I'd have two cycle cynches by now. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I like these guys. #1 is that their product doesn't pull the grips in like the canyon dancer does. #2 they use cambuckle tiedowns, which I have had people practically crucify me for using them for the past 12 years. #3 they haul with no rear straps because the front straps are plenty. I've had more people jump my ass about the rear straps than I ever did about the cambuckle tiedowns, so now I have rear straps. The only downside is that it seems to me that their design might be closer to the fairings than the CD. Those of you who have this, please chime in, because I might switch products if it places the straps farther out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Use a decent wheel chock (around $20), some 2" rachet straps (around $15), and run the strap around the front fender mount/fork on either side and draw that sucker in tight. It will NOT budge one bit, and no worries about scratched fairings, over-compressed forks, having the "S"-hooks on the ends of the straps bounce out of the attachment point on large bumps, etc. Just good, solid, and no-nonsense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I don't know about all this bitching about Canyon Dancers. I have transported my XX when I had it multiple times and have used it on the 750 and the 600 numbers of times and never had an issue. Sure it's not too technical for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 I don't know about all this bitching about Canyon Dancers. That is what I use now but if you don't put PVC pipe on the ends, it wants to pull the grips off. The way the center strap pulls so tight, it wants to break the switch gear on the bars. I have seen it happen over and over. Sometimes, it just breaks the locating tab that keeps the switch gear from rotating on the bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrated Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I've got two Canyon Dancers and will sell them both for thirty bucks or $15 apiece. I've recently bought the Baxley wheel chocks and now, roll the bike into it, latch the pivot mechanism, and put a strap on both sides at the rear of the bike and pull forward. No more screwed up grips or broken control pods on the left side of the clipons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedygeezer Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I run a hook up and over each side of the lower steering stem, then hook the other ends to floor anchors that are located so that the straps don't touch any part of the bike after they are cinched down. Make sure the front wheel cannot rotate. I guess you could turn the wheel to one side, but that would put extra force on the fork tubes that they may not like. Cinch the straps (ratchet straps only here) down tightly enough so that the bike cannot bounce low enough so that the hooks can come loose from the floor anchors. Make sure the hooks on the steering stem don't interfere with brake lines, etc. No rear straps required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 I run a hook up and over each side of the lower steering stem, then hook the other ends to floor anchors that are located so that the straps don't touch any part of the bike after they are cinched down. Make sure the front wheel cannot rotate. I guess you could turn the wheel to one side, but that would put extra force on the fork tubes that they may not like. Cinch the straps (ratchet straps only here) down tightly enough so that the bike cannot bounce low enough so that the hooks can come loose from the floor anchors. Make sure the hooks on the steering stem don't interfere with brake lines, etc. No rear straps required. After seeing you do yours at Texxt, we used a modified version to transport Bunbuns bike in the back of my trailer. Used loops over the lower triple to hook to and rear loops through the rear foot peg slots to hold back as no tire stops in my trailer. The front straps cleared the body fine tied to the floor rail, which is pretty wide, but just to be safe we ran a strap in front of the front tire over the front straps to pull them together away from the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedygeezer Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 I assume you're talking about fabric loops, right? Yes, these work fine, but I don't like using them when sharp metal edges are involved. Some of those things are prone to tearing due to abrasion and the associated heat produced, plus they are just one more thing you have to mess with. A steel hook is fool-proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 like these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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