CxBXR Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Went down to Houston today to pick up a part from a salvage yard on the XX & on the drive back got stuck in traffic the digital temp indicated 260+, when the traffic finally cleared (rubber-neckers caused the whole thing) I took off (accelerated) then about half-mile down the road at 60+mph it shut down on me, I pulled over let it cool to ~230 cranked it up & no problem's ever since. I recently changed my oil with chevron 15-40 full syth. could this be part of the issue ? I also topped off the radiator at the oil change <300 miles ago. Any ideas ? ***EDIT*** 06/04/2008 *********Bent fins on the radiator was causing the overheating issue, didnt realize it till later after inspecting it, nearly the whole front side of the rad. is trashed******** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 WHat oil had you been using previously? Also, did you burp the cooling system fully? I also recently changed out my coolant and changed the oil ( to another brand that I don't normally use) and my bike also runs hotter since. Not like your hot , but 3-5 degrees warmer. I have a feeling that my situation is oil related. I just got a bunch of info on AMSOIL and I'm curious to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 At the drag strip during NEXXT Hobicus' bike shutdown briefly. I wonder if that was temp related as well. It was hotter than West Virgina cousin-love that day. Does the XX have high temperature shutdown functionality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 At the drag strip during NEXXT Hobicus' bike shutdown briefly. It was hotter than West Virgina cousin-love that day[/i]. Does the XX have high temperature shutdown functionality? It was only warm that day at the drag strip !! At least there was a breeze. It is usually much hotter here in South Florida at least 300 days a year. I don't think anyone made more passes than I did at the drags and I had no over heating problem. Plus I have a radiator guard and front fender extender installed that reduces the air flow somewhat. I did run hot in stopped traffic on the Balt-Wash beltway about a 1/4 mile behind an accident ! Shut the engine off, left key on to run the fan and sat in the shade of a big box semi truck and cooled off quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 I have seen high 250's at Daytona in stop and go. It was worse when there was a breeze from the rear. I did see a 5-8 degree increase in temps when I first went from Dino oil to Mobil 1. Have seen similar temp increase on my dad's ultralight when going to synthetic. That being said, I watch the temps in those FEW stop and go's I get in. And now switch off when it starts getting hot. I think the synthetic is better, just doesn't pull heat off as fast. It has been posted before that the waterpump is set up for 4K rpm up. Idle is not supposed to move enough water to keep her cool. I would do a short mileage change on my oil after those temps just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01xxallen Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 It has been posted before that the waterpump is set up for 4K rpm up. Idle is not supposed to move enough water to keep her cool. I heard this before. I tried it in my garage. When I let the bike warm up, it will go to 175 deg. then stay there briefly, followed by a run to 220 deg. after which the fan kicks on. I tried holding the throttle at 4 k. and the temperature went back down to 180 deg. rapidly. So...+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Went down to Houston today to pick up a part from a salvage yard on the XX & on the drive back got stuck in traffic the digital temp indicated 260+, when the traffic finally cleared (rubber-neckers caused the whole thing) I took off (accelerated) then about half-mile down the road at 60+mph it shut down on me, I pulled over let it cool to ~230 cranked it up & no problem's ever since. I recently changed my oil with chevron 15-40 full syth. could this be part of the issue ? I also topped off the radiator at the oil change <300 miles ago. Any ideas ? Dude! How are we supposed to concentrate with that avatar? :icon_wall: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Dave Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 I am betting that there is an internal fail-safe temp setting that will kill the motor before it reaches critical mass. I have seen 240 in a traffic jam were I had to run at idle speed in 1st gear for a mile. Of course, there was a 5mph breeze from behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Dude! How are we supposed to concentrate with that avatar? :icon_wall: Do not stare to hard you will be hipmotized Thanks for all the reply's, I was previously running Rotella-t 5w-40. I never tested it in that kind of traffic before, I DO think the oil had alot to do with it though. I have never seen the temp get so high before, I will be switching imediatly to either Amsoil or Royal Purple they both are supposed to have advanced heat dissapation technology, & maybe some water-wetter or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeXTrain99 Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 I'm in Houston and commute in this hot weather daily. Usually I'm on the freeway or the HOV lane making 50+mph so no heat problems at all. But the last few miles of my communte home, I'm in stop and go traffic for about 2 miles. I have a '99 with a analogue temp gauge. I have only seen the needle pass the upper white line once and it was only for a moment or two, however the needle does seem to stay pegged on the upper white line for a good portion of the time I'm in stop and go. IF I get a chance to go about 20mph in 2nd for 100 yds I can see the needle drop to about the half way point in the guage. I had heard that the water pump works from 2k rpm but really hadn't seen anything happen while holding 2k in traffic. Maybe 4k is the answer. I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of looks I get from the cagers around me when I hold 4k and let the D&D pipe sing out loud. Does anybody know what the temp correlates with the upper white line on the analogue gauge? The lower line? CxBxR -- Where in south Texas is your South Texas? Train Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXSIVSPD Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 FWIW I've had good luck with water wetter. Pay attention to anti-freeze mixture ratios too. Running less anit-freeze/more water will help reduce operating temps. If you're in a southern climate you do not need protection to -50F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXX Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Do the analog birds run hotter than the digitals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted September 26, 2007 Author Share Posted September 26, 2007 I'm in Houston and commute in this hot weather daily. Usually I'm on the freeway or the HOV lane making 50+mph so no heat problems at all. But the last few miles of my communte home, I'm in stop and go traffic for about 2 miles. I have a '99 with a analogue temp gauge. I have only seen the needle pass the upper white line once and it was only for a moment or two, however the needle does seem to stay pegged on the upper white line for a good portion of the time I'm in stop and go. IF I get a chance to go about 20mph in 2nd for 100 yds I can see the needle drop to about the half way point in the guage. I had heard that the water pump works from 2k rpm but really hadn't seen anything happen while holding 2k in traffic. Maybe 4k is the answer. I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of looks I get from the cagers around me when I hold 4k and let the D&D pipe sing out loud. Does anybody know what the temp correlates with the upper white line on the analogue gauge? The lower line? CxBxR -- Where in south Texas is your South Texas? Train I live just north of Houston, Conroe to be exact. I have a 99' frame & 02' overthing else is why I am digital. Anybody heard anything good about Royal Purples latest & greatest heat dissapating oil ? I have a strong suspesion that the Chevron 15-40 caused the excessive temp's, So if anybody if reading this steer clear of it. Thanks for all the input, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Anybody heard anything good about Royal Purples latest & greatest heat dissapating oil ? I've been running RP 20/50 for years in my XX and my GL1800 with zero problems and no overheating under any conditions that I've experienced... of course I'm in the Deep Humid South (Louisiana) so the 20/50 weight synthetic is perfect for my applications. The coolant is Honda's 50/50 pre-mix, although at the next servicing I'm going to try the Peak anti-freeze/coolant (silica/phosphate free) in a 50/50 ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowdrunner Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I don't think that there is anything internal that shuts them down because last year my 2000 pegged the temp guage and boiled the antifreeze and kept running. I smelled the antifreeze assumed it was from someone else stuck in the traffic jam and looked down to find the guage pegged. The cause was from months before when a deer hit me and bent the radiator into the fan which took out the fuse. The radiator never leaked so I didn't look for damage up in there. Let the bike cool got out of traffic and air cooling was enough to get me back to the hotel. Replaced the radiator and all cooling components and fortunately no long term damage. I would like a high temp light instead of the stupid FI light!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 I don't think that there is anything internal that shuts them down because last year my 2000 pegged the temp guage and boiled the antifreeze and kept running. I smelled the antifreeze assumed it was from someone else stuck in the traffic jam and looked down to find the guage pegged. The cause was from months before when a deer hit me and bent the radiator into the fan which took out the fuse. The radiator never leaked so I didn't look for damage up in there. Let the bike cool got out of traffic and air cooling was enough to get me back to the hotel. Replaced the radiator and all cooling components and fortunately no long term damage. I would like a high temp light instead of the stupid FI light!!! You have a analog gauge, so really you dont know what the temp #'s actually were. Second you rad. & fan was damaged, just because yours boiled over & mine didnt does not signify anything. I can assure you now it SHUT DOWN either mechanically or electronically !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I am sure they have an over temp shutdown system. I can't remember where I read it but I am sure of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted October 2, 2007 Share Posted October 2, 2007 I run water wetter and it helps out in stop-n-go. Any time it gerts that hot I start to worry. The fan should cool it down...esp. if you give it a little bit of throttle...try water wetter or equivalent and a short-term oil change as mentioned... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CxBXR Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 Well changed the oil to Castrol Actevo, flushed the Rad. & all is good, temps do not climb over 230 now, Thanks for the advice everyone. Was going to go with royal purple but dealer wanted $11.99 per quart & I forgot to get water wetter while there so I just used 75% water 25% antifreeze (south Tx temps do not get that low during winter months so not really woried about fluid freezing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Do the analog birds run hotter than the digitals? Don't know about Analogue versus Digital but the FI bikes seem to run a bit hotter than the carbed XX's, there are a few posts about warm running bikes on OzBB at the moment and it is only spring :icon_think: BTW they are all newer FI bikes, I have never had the gauge go over 1/2 way on my 98 even in 40C+ temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 XX is the hottest running bike I ever seen. That was one of the reasons I sold mine other than that is liked the bike. Yes twisting the throttle when at stop light or in stop and go traffic will help. But "I" never had any luck using water wetter or any other of that type of stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toynut Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 While you are at it, check the radiator fins for straightness or blockage by bugs/ road crud. Sometimes simple things like this definitely help. +1 on the Watter Wetter, especially if you are running a heavy water to antifreeze ratio. Remember, antifreeze also serves as a corrosion inhibitor/ water pump lube for your cooling system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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