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Oil drain plug washer type?


testrider

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Auto Zone carries 14mm aluminium crush washers for around 2 bucks a 4 pack. Been using them for the last 25,000 miles (5 oil changes) with no problems.

Thanks for the info. Are these aluminum crush washers that have a raised ring around the washer or are they the flat type?

You're supposed to change those things? Man...50+ oil changes, across 4 or 5 bikes, totalling over 100K miles and I've never changed the crush washer, or had one leak on me. Ever.

I never changed mine either after 40k miles on my 97 XX but I think may be it's just about time

to throw in a new one once in a while... :-)

Yes, but be carful you might strip the thread's if you put to much torque on the bolt, there is not much material holding the thread's on the oil pan (couple people here have stripped them).

Thanks.

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They are the flat type. I wasn't into changing them either, but now that I discovered them at the local parts store, I figured what the hell why not!

I even change the ones on the cages too :icon_whistle:

On my and my wife's car, I installed the Fumoto valve on the first oil change and

I never had to remove the oil drain plug again. On the XX, I kept forgetting

to measure the thread to order the correct one since motorcycles are not

on their application list but they do carry different diameter/thread (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com).

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I'm using a plug I got on eBay, it has a magnetic tip on the end which is supposed to catch any metal shavings that float by. It also has a rubber coating on the inside of the washer. It is supposed to be reusable. I've only had it on for a few hundred miles. So I haven't seen yet if the magnet is picking up anything. But I figure it can't hurt. Next oil change I'll post a picture of it before I clean it off.

It hasn't leaked yet.

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I'm using a plug I got on eBay, it has a magnetic tip on the end which is supposed to catch any metal shavings that float by. It also has a rubber coating on the inside of the washer. It is supposed to be reusable. I've only had it on for a few hundred miles. So I haven't seen yet if the magnet is picking up anything. But I figure it can't hurt. Next oil change I'll post a picture of it before I clean it off.

It hasn't leaked yet.

Isn't that's what the oil filter is for?

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I'm using a plug I got on eBay, it has a magnetic tip on the end which is supposed to catch any metal shavings that float by. It also has a rubber coating on the inside of the washer. It is supposed to be reusable. I've only had it on for a few hundred miles. So I haven't seen yet if the magnet is picking up anything. But I figure it can't hurt. Next oil change I'll post a picture of it before I clean it off.

It hasn't leaked yet.

Isn't that's what the oil filter is for?

and gravity... :icon_whistle:

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Back to the original question.

The crush washer is designed to do the same basic job as the washer on a spark plug.

Create a leak proof seal at reduced torque settings.

Yes, you can continue to reuse the washer, but you need to torque the bolt more.

You guys spend big bucks on the best oil and the best filter.

Why not finish the job right with a new crush washer?

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If you want to add the new washer, go to a Honda auto dealer , the washer for my 2002 Civic is the exact same as the Bird, but way cheaper then the Honda M/C stealer, .69 cents vs. 1.90$ or 2.50$ so I bought a bag full, piece of mind is worth .69 sense!

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If you want to add the new washer, go to a Honda auto dealer , the washer for my 2002 Civic is the exact same as the Bird, but way cheaper then the Honda M/C stealer, .69 cents vs. 1.90$ or 2.50$ so I bought a bag full, piece of mind is worth .69 sense!

And it's also the same as my 98 Isuzu Trooper :icon_biggrin:

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I installed the fumoto valve. Here is a pic. Push down that level (spring loaded),

turn it forward and the oil start to run out.

Hard to tell by the picture but does the valve hang lower than the header?

Also shouldn't the on/off valve be up top?

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I installed the fumoto valve. Here is a pic. Push down that level (spring loaded),

turn it forward and the oil start to run out.

Hard to tell by the picture but does the valve hang lower than the header?

Also shouldn't the on/off valve be up top?

It's above the header. As to the position of the on/off lever, there is no control

where it's positioned...

Here is another pic:

post-891-1191721246.jpg

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