turbo50jeff Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I'm thinking of buying the racetech gold compression and rebound valves and installing them myself. I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Do I need any special tools? The reason I'd like to do it myself is if I don't like it I know how to take it apart and fine tune it for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 IIRC, I had to use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut away the peened over threads. The threads are peened over to help lock the nuts securing the stock valves. Also you'll need a #54 (I think) drill bit to drill a release hole in the valves. Check racetech's website, I think the instructions, which list the tools, are online. BTW, Racetech's instructions are terrible. I used this link instead - VFR Forum Link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo50jeff Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 IIRC, I had to use a dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut away the peened over threads. The threads are peened over to help lock the nuts securing the stock valves. Also you'll need a #54 (I think) drill bit to drill a release hole in the valves. Check racetech's website, I think the instructions, which list the tools, are online. BTW, Racetech's instructions are terrible. I used this link instead - VFR Forum Link That link is awesome! The installation looks really lengthy! How many times did you have to take yours apart and re shim them to get them right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 I did mine by the instructions for my weight and such, and it was a 1-stop shop, so to speak, for me... Plan on your first set taking you all day Saturday from rolling bike to rolling bike... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 That link is awesome! The installation looks really lengthy! How many times did you have to take yours apart and re shim them to get them right? You can thank Mike Barton for the link, he sent it to me a few months ago. My first fork took like 4 hours to revalve. But I also changed the fork seals and bushings. The second fork took approximately two hours. I used the shim stacks (rebound & compression) recommended for my weight and riding style and have never re-shimmed. If you also change the springs, plan on cutting the spacers as well. Oh BTW, I used a tube cutter to cut the spacers. The tube cutter makes a smooth perpendicular cut. So maybe that's another special tool you'll need. My XX has 1.0kg racetech springs in it. To get the right SAG, I cut down the stock spacers to 129mm. While you're at it, go buck wild and install the All Balls tapered stem bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Don't forget about seal drivers for the fork seals and dust covers. If you don't want to spend the money for those, you can use a piece of aluminum or stiff plastic pipe that will just fit over the fork leg. Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Don't forget about seal drivers for the fork seals and dust covers. If you don't want to spend the money for those, you can use a piece of aluminum or stiff plastic pipe that will just fit over the fork leg. Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. +1 Another tip, flip the old fork seal upside down. Slide it down, on top of the new fork seal. This helps press in the new seal, in conjuction with a piece of PVC pipe or an actual seal driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 +1 Another tip, flip the old fork seal upside down. Slide it down, on top of the new fork seal. This helps press in the new seal, in conjuction with a piece of PVC pipe or an actual seal driver. I knew I was forgetting something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. Yep... I read "ultra-low stiction" and instantly thought "ultra-loose seal, with thin sealing edges, will damage easily" and put on the OEM Honda ones... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted August 24, 2007 Share Posted August 24, 2007 Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. Yep... I read "ultra-low stiction" and instantly thought "ultra-loose seal, with thin sealing edges, will damage easily" and put on the OEM Honda ones... Mike Are the seals worn out ? there is no need to change them with the racetech install unless you want to . The express way is take off he front wheel, remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork, remove the fork cap and pull out the cartridge and spring, take it too yr bench and get to work. You should have and very small torque wrench to tighten the center bolt that holds the stack together. I belive the the position of an oil bypass in the rebound valve changed some time before 2002. I found ths out after drilling the recomended hole in the valve only to find out there already was one in the bound shaft. I took it apart later and epoxied up the rebound hole in the honda assembly. In 2003 when i installed the valves the instructions did not address the honda change in design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. Yep... I read "ultra-low stiction" and instantly thought "ultra-loose seal, with thin sealing edges, will damage easily" and put on the OEM Honda ones... Mike Are the seals worn out ? there is no need to change them with the racetech install unless you want to . The express way is take off he front wheel, remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork, remove the fork cap and pull out the cartridge and spring, take it too yr bench and get to work. I had over 20K on the originals. Might as well change them while I was in there. Didn't know I would have to do it twice. The new Racetech seals looked fine. I think they were crap from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted August 27, 2007 Share Posted August 27, 2007 Another suggestion: Order genuine Honda fork seals! The ones I got from Racetech started leaking within 2000 miles. Yep... I read "ultra-low stiction" and instantly thought "ultra-loose seal, with thin sealing edges, will damage easily" and put on the OEM Honda ones... Mike Are the seals worn out ? there is no need to change them with the racetech install unless you want to . The express way is take off he front wheel, remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork, remove the fork cap and pull out the cartridge and spring, take it too yr bench and get to work. I had over 20K on the originals. Might as well change them while I was in there. Didn't know I would have to do it twice. The new Racetech seals looked fine. I think they were crap from the start. Eh... Mine were still in REALLY good shape at ~40k miles, but I changed them because I figured they only had another 10-15k miles in them, and didn't want to get back in there any time soon... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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